Clear over Boyd's Enamel???

[Danger]

Looking for help on what clear I can put over a recent paint job. I used Color by Boyd enamel paint and I was going to leave it without a clear but i've burned through the paint twice while polishing and only have a little bit to spare. I usually shoot lacquers or acrylic, but have a few bottles of enamel in my stash.  

What clears can go over this enamel? 

Thanks for the help. 

Danger

[CabDriver]

Acrylic clear (Tamiya, for example or Createx) would be fine, as would almost any enamel clear.  I would steer away from lacquer clears - they tend not to be compatible with enamels. 

If it was me, I'd use an enamel gloss clear - it's a nice easy way to get a high gloss clear coat with some depth to it that you can polish on.  You'll need to be patient in letting it dry though, unless you have a dehydrator (in which case, bake the finished parts at 95 for 24 hours minimum)

Edited August 26, 2021 by CabDriver

[Painted Black]

I always used Boyds clear, but I also use Future with good results.

[Snake45]

 

[CabDriver]

20 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

 

That stuff works over Testor's enamel?

[Classicgas]

I wouldn't use it over enamel.  Acrylic,  future  or enamel.  Keep in mind Testors enamel clear yellows over time and will eventually effect the color. 

[Snake45]

1 hour ago, Classicgas said:

I wouldn't use it over enamel.  

I did and it worked fine. Read the thread. 

[CabDriver]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I did and it worked fine. Read the thread. 

I did read the thread; I didn’t see you mention that the paint you tried it on was enamel, was all.

Cool that it works! 👍🏻

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I did read the thread; I didn’t see you mention that the paint you tried it on was enamel, was all.

Cool that it works! 👍🏻

Here's what I said: 

Quote

Update: Have now laid three coats--two light mist coats, one heavy wet coat--on JunkNova, which I believe was orignally painted with rattlecan Model Master Purple Pearl (now discontinued). There has been no adverse reaction between the lacquer and the purple. 

 

[Classicgas]

13 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I did and it worked fine. Read the thread. 

Fine. I suggest NOT. Mixing paint types is NEVER  a good idea. Just because it worked once doesn't mean it always will. I believe in safe versus sorry. I guess I really don't know what I'm talking about, I've just been working with paint for over 36 years.

[DiscoRover007]

9 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

Fine. I suggest NOT. Mixing paint types is NEVER  a good idea. Just because it worked once doesn't mean it always will. I believe in safe versus sorry. I guess I really don't know what I'm talking about, I've just been working with paint for over 36 years.

It's a good general rule but its not so cut and dry anymore. Certain lacquers aren't as hot like they used to be. Even Testors One Coat Lacquer clear could be sprayed on their enamel lines.

[Classicgas]

Then by all means do it. I'm well aware of that, I just think it's a safe bet to NOT. I really doubt these so called lacquers are really that at all. 

[CabDriver]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Here's what I said: 

 

Yeah, I read what you said - but they make (made) Model Master Pearl Purple in acrylic, enamel and lacquer varieties - you didn't mention which version you tried it over 🤷‍♂️. 

Regardless, if it works over the enamel - great!  Thanks for posting your findings 🙂

 

[Snake45]

45 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

Fine. I suggest NOT. Mixing paint types is NEVER  a good idea. Just because it worked once doesn't mean it always will. I believe in safe versus sorry. I guess I really don't know what I'm talking about, I've just been working with paint for over 36 years.

I'll see your 36 years of painting and raise you a decade.  All I can tell you is what I've done THAT WORKED (and more than once, too). I also believe in safe versus sorry. That's why when I have any doubt at all, I TEST on spoons or scrap bodies. I wouldn't DREAM of trying some new paint technique or material on a rare body or something I had a lot of time and work in. 

Caution is good. So is trying new things and seeing if they work for you. 

[Snake45]

14 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Yeah, I read what you said - but they make (made) Model Master Pearl Purple in acrylic, enamel and lacquer varieties - you didn't mention which version you tried it over 🤷‍♂️. 

Regardless, if it works over the enamel - great!  Thanks for posting your findings 🙂

 

I've only ever seen the Pearl Purple in enamel bottles and rattlecans, and acrylic bottles. Never saw it in lacquer in any form, and I don't think I've ever seen any Model Master rattlecan acrylics. 

At any rate, my standard method to use the Rustoleum is: one light mist coat, dry, another light mist coat, slightly heavier, dry, then one light but full wet coat, dry, then heavier wet coats. It's worked for me several times now. 

[Classicgas]

1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

I'll see your 36 years of painting and raise you a decade.  All I can tell you is what I've done THAT WORKED (and more than once, too). I also believe in safe versus sorry. That's why when I have any doubt at all, I TEST on spoons or scrap bodies. I wouldn't DREAM of trying some new paint technique or material on a rare body or something I had a lot of time and work in. 

Caution is good. So is trying new things and seeing if they work for you. 

I agree.  If you've been in the painting industry  46 years then you know that.👍  The thing is people will run with a idea because someone says it works and not use any common sense then whine whether don't get the expected results. 

Edited August 27, 2021 by Classicgas

[Snake45]

22 minutes ago, Classicgas said:

The thing is people will run with a idea because someone says it works and not use any common sense then whine whether don't get the expected results. 

In my experience, more often someone will take a process or technique that you explain very carefully to them, then modify the process in some way or substitute materials, and then whine to you that "your technique didn't work at all." 

That's why I gave up giving in-person painting lessons/tips/advice about 30 years ago. One of the last guys I tried to teach was the ONLY guy I ever worked with who ever did exactly what I said, and he got exactly the results I got, and only THEN did he start doing his own experimenting and soon was doing paint jobs even better than mine! I was so proud of him. 

[Classicgas]

That's cool.  That's also one of the reasons  I hate trying to teach people finishing and balk at it. Most just will not listen.  There's a rhyme and reason to why I do what I do the way I do it and if you  do what I show you you will be successful is what I tell them. But no...... it goes in one ear and out the other. I don't have time or patience  for that. Learn to do things the way I show you  and then if you have ideas we can look at it.