Help please! Paint and masking tape troubles.

[Snake45]

I think the most likely explanation is that you have somehow displeased the Modeling Gods. Try to get right there and see if things don't go better for you. 

[Tom Geiger]

All Tamiya Tape in this photo. I did use 3M Painters Blue on the rest of the roof. But always Tamiya for the critical edges.

Great result as always. Check out how well the front fender spear came out….

One thing not mentioned.. to get the perfect edge, do not ever put a roll of masking tape down on your work bench.. it will pick up bits of dirt compromising the edge. That’s why Tamiya sells the dispenser. There was a guy on anudder board proud that he had saved a few cents by buying the Tamiya refill instead of the roll in the dispenser. I explained it to him and he understood.

 

 

[Snake45]

I use ordinary Duck masking tape from Walmart and always, ALWAYS cut a fresh edge with a straightedge and sharp blade. This has always worked for me. 

[jaymcminn]

Gotta say, it's almost certainly not the tape. I've used Tamiya tape for decades. With acrylics, auto paints, Tamiya lacquers and Model Master lacquers both decanted and straight from the spray can. I've never had any issues like you're describing (in fact, I've never had MM spray lacquer soak through any tape whatsoever). Are you sure you didn't just get bleed under the tape from not having the tape burnished down enough? I suppose it's possible that by leaving the tape on for 24+ hours some of the color could have transferred through to your base color. I've never heard of it happening, but that doesn't mean it's outside the realm of possibility. 

That being said, it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools. When used properly, the paint and tape you purchased are perfectly fine. While Model Master spray cans aren't my favorite, I've gotten some decent paint jobs out of them. There's a reason why I have three widths of Tamiya tape on my workbench as well. But there's a learning curve to these things... my advice, as with many others who have posted on your thread, is to suck it up, take it as a learning experience, and move on. That's the best way forward as a modeler. Learn patience, learn to ask questions and learn to accept that the answers you receive may not be the ones you want to hear. 

[Dpate]

19 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I bought Tamiya Model Masking Tape. Guess what? It's no good for lacquer and it might not be good enamel either on our plastic static model kits. It's a brown paper tape

I don't think you bought Tamiya masking tape.  Never known it was brown just yellow.

[Big John]

13 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

OK..............I've been using Tamiya Tape for masking for MANY years now and I've had nary an issue. These pics will speak for themselves..........

A still in progress '55 Ford which two toning was a must for the car I wanted to replicate........

I have to agree with what others have said about the tape. I only leave the tape on until the paint is dry to the touch. When pulling off the tape, NEVER pull the tape straight up. You'll want to pull it back, and then slowly at that. It might not hurt to use some clear paint along the edges before you paint to prevent any bleed under if there's a problem with soaking.

BTW, I've used Tamiya Tape on all sorts of paints and simply have not had an issue. Along with the use of Parafilm, it's my go-to source when I want to do two-toning or stripes.

hey Big O, The Parafilm looks interesting, flexible and quite thin.  Have you done any masking using it alone?  I am looking for a ultra thin (to minimize edge buildup) masking material that has low to medium tack.

Thanks for the info.

[Rodent]

Some time ago, I painted a Revell  '68 Mustang with 1:1 Diamond Blue and gave it a light overcoat of TS-13. The whole thing dried for at least a month. Instead of using the kit stripe decals for the Cobra Jet hood/cowl stripes, I masked them off with Tamiya tape and shot the stripes with Tamiya semi-gloss black. As soon as possible, I removed the tape, but it had made some weird markings in the hood. I let the whole thing dry for a few weeks, carefully cleaned up the marks with 2000 and gave it another light coat of TS-13. It came out fine, but it definitely is possible for Tamiya tape to leave marks on paint that should be long since dry. Never really had any bleeding through, but I am a firm believer in the "light coat of clear between colors" method whenever possible.

[peteski]

1 hour ago, Big John said:

hey Big O, The Parafilm looks interesting, flexible and quite thin.  Have you done any masking using it alone?  I am looking for a ultra thin (to minimize edge buildup) masking material that has low to medium tack.

Thanks for the info.

I use Parafilm M  for masking and I have to give you a warning.  It does get affected by solvents in certain paints (it gets softened).  While the paint did not penetrate it, the soft Parafilm M was difficult to remove.

Going be the name, it is paraffin-based (candle wax).  There is no adhesive (it is just clingy when stretched out), so it is very low tack.  But it only clings well to glossy surfaces.  It is hard to get it to stay on flat painted surfaces.

 

It is not for all types of masking, but It does have its place in my arsenal of multiple types of masking materials.

[StevenGuthmiller]

21 hours ago, Plowboy said:

Sounds like you sprayed on too much paint and you definitely left the tape on for too long. It's not the fault of the tape. 

Boy do I agree with that! 
It always interests me how often I see these rants about so called “terrible products” when more often than not it’s the guy behind the wheel that’s the problem.

Do we ever stop to think before we start denigrating a product that we have had trouble with that it might not be the product, but the application of it? 
Well, this is an apparent and perfect example of that. 
There’s nothing wrong with Tamiya tape.

I use it all of the time, and I use lacquer almost exclusively.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[ZTony8]

On 9/10/2021 at 8:40 PM, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I bought Tamiya Model Masking Tape. Guess what? It's no good for lacquer and it might not be good enamel either on our plastic static model kits. It's a brown paper tape like that krap at the hardware store. I ruined a few of my AMT truck parts already using it. The wet spray paint is absorbed by the Tamiya tape and it discolored the cured paint underneath and ruined my paint job. I have to do some of these parts all over again. Is there a model tape that absolutely will not ruin paint jobs? I need a tape that peels off clean and won't harm the paint its covering up. I have learned the hard way by painting automobiles that one should use plastic 3M AUTOMOTIVE tape for cars and not brown paper house masking tape. The tape has to be water-proof or I should say wet paint proof and have good  properties so it won't ruin paint underneath. 

When you buy your tape look on the inside of the roll and see if it says anything about using that tape with lacquers. If it's not compatible it will say so.

[peteski]

16 hours ago, ZTony8 said:

When you buy your tape look on the inside of the roll and see if it says anything about using that tape with lacquers. If it's not compatible it will say so.

Interesting. Through the years I probably used about a dozen of different brands and types of masking tapes but I have never seen any such warnings inside the tape's core.  I guess that all those tapes I used were safe to use with lacquers.  I'm curious about what brand/type of tape you have seen such warning on.

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 minutes ago, peteski said:

Interesting. Through the years I probably used about a dozen of different brands and types of masking tapes but I have never seen any such warnings inside the tape's core.  I guess that all those tapes I used were safe to use with lacquers.  I'm curious about what brand/type of tape you have seen such warning on.

Yeah, I’ve never seen that either.

I don’t doubt that it exists, but it must be some “off the wall” stuff.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Big John]

Thanks for the heads up; on the Parafilm.  I saw it available for plant grafting in the garden center so wasn't sure of use.  Has anyone had luck using aribrush frisket film?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

[peteski]

1 hour ago, Big John said:

Thanks for the heads up; on the Parafilm.  I saw it available for plant grafting in the garden center so wasn't sure of use.  Has anyone had luck using aribrush frisket film?

Thanks again for everyone's input.

No problem, but my intention was not to steer you clear of Parafilm-M. It has its uses, but not for all the masking Needs.  For example I use it when I paint satin black windshield or back window gaskets molded on the car body. It is perfect for that. I stretch the film, then drape it over the car body, and press it all around the windshield frame using a soft makeup sponge.  Parafilm clings nicely to glossy paint, and since it is translucent, you can see when it made tight seal to the glossy paint.  Then I use brand new #11 blade to gently score around the gasket molding, and remove the unneeded part of the mask.  Then I airbrush mild Testors semigloss or flat black enamel.  When the paint flashes over, I then gently peel back the Parafilm.  That is just one example of good application for it.

[Rodent]

Not to introduce another variable to this, but what about Press N Seal? I have never tried it, but it sounds like it may work for what Peteski is explaining above?

[peteski]

19 minutes ago, Rodent said:

Not to introduce another variable to this, but what about Press N Seal? I have never tried it, but it sounds like it may work for what Peteski is explaining above?

Stay clear!  Years ago, on someone's advice, I tried this stuff.  It has texture, so it is only to be used as large filler pieces inside outlines masked with more precise media (like masking tape).  But, and big "but", when it is removed a good part of its adhesive stays on the model!!!  Huge pain in the butt to clean. Press-N-Seal never again!

[ZTony8]

On 9/12/2021 at 2:52 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Yeah, I’ve never seen that either.

I don’t doubt that it exists, but it must be some “off the wall” stuff.

 

 

 

 

Steve

It may have been 3M or Tuck, but whatever brand it is, I saw it at Home Depot.

[peteski]

28 minutes ago, ZTony8 said:

It may have been 3M or Tuck, but whatever brand it is, I saw it at Home Depot.

Thanks!  I'll see if I can find it at HD.

[bobthehobbyguy]

On 9/10/2021 at 7:02 PM, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Never mind, I will just try my 3M Automotive tape next time. It never let me down on something as expensive and precious as my 1:1 scale drivable street-legal gasoline-powered car. I've left that tape on my car for several days in the hot sun and it came off clean as a whistle with absolutely no paint penetration whatsoever. I will report back here how it goes. The questionable failed tape I bought from Hobby Lobby late last year said Tamiya on it indeed unless it's a counterfeit product they sold me. Suffice it to say, I'm done with it for painting. What one should do when buying a new masking tape they don't know is put it on piece of plastic model runner and spray a swatch of paint it before actually using it on a model. I'm going to do this test with my 3M car tape tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

One thing in modeling is when you find something that worjs then stick with that method. The only caveat is with painting. Testing is necessary. Paint formulas change and plastics change and so there are no guarantees that something that worked before will work tomorrow.  Testing paint on kit sprue is the best way to test compatibility.  

[bobthehobbyguy]

On 9/10/2021 at 8:23 PM, Plumcrazy Preston said:

The Tamiya tape I have says Width 10 mm on the label. Up until now, I thought all "model masking tape" was the same. I'm new in to model building with masking tape. The defective paint might be a culprit. I now have a second can of "Model masters" from this offbeat vender that has a bulge in the bottom. I put the can in a jar of scalding hot water for 5 minutes before shaking and using. As I was spray yesterday, I thought something went pop and I noticed the bulge on the bottom of the can just now. Is scalding-hot tap water too hot for rattle- can prep? 

You really need to ask questions like this before you try them.

You were lucky you did not redecorate the kitchen when you put tge can in scalding water. The hot water for warming cans should be no hotter than what you can put your hand it. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

3 hours ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

You really need to ask questions like this before you try them.

You were lucky you did not redecorate the kitchen when you put tge can in scalding water. The hot water for warming cans should be no hotter than what you can put your hand it. 

Correct.

It only needs to be warm.

Just hot water straight out of the tap is plenty hot enough.

 

As Bob said, you're really darn lucky the can didn't explode on you!

 

 

 

 

Steve