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Help please! Paint and masking tape troubles.


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I bought Tamiya Model Masking Tape. Guess what? It's no good for lacquer and it might not be good enamel either on our plastic static model kits. It's a brown paper tape like that krap at the hardware store. I ruined a few of my AMT truck parts already using it. The wet spray paint is absorbed by the Tamiya tape and it discolored the cured paint underneath and ruined my paint job. I have to do some of these parts all over again. Is there a model tape that absolutely will not ruin paint jobs? I need a tape that peels off clean and won't harm the paint its covering up. I have learned the hard way by painting automobiles that one should use plastic 3M AUTOMOTIVE tape for cars and not brown paper house masking tape. The tape has to be water-proof or I should say wet paint proof and have good  properties so it won't ruin paint underneath. 

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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What exactly did you expect?!  Some magic unicorn tape?  That tape has been available for decades, and lots of modelers (me included) really like it, and recommend it to the newbies.  If the tape as crappy, why would we all recommend it?

I have never has any masking tape I used (Tamiya, brown Scotch, or Blue Painters) ever have the paint soak through it.   Maybe you are spraying it *TOO* heavy?  But even heavy coats should not soak through the tape.  What brand/type of paint are you using?  How long are you waiting for the bottom coat to dry, and how long are you waiting for the top coat of paint to dry before removing the tape?

You just don't seem to have much luck in your modeling ventures.

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Model Masters lacquer rattle-can paint. 1970 Plymouth Plum Crazy Metallic. Used exactly as directed. Paint underneath had cured for over one month!! I've never had problems with 3M Automotive (green) masking tape used for my car. I just repainted the black door posts on my '95 Toyota Corolla last month. Perfect. No bleed-through, peeled off clean as a whistle. I might have to use my proven car tape for models then and my scissors to trim it down thin. You may have no experience with lacquer paints. The top coat was waited for no less than 24 hours before peeling off the questionable tape. I could clearly see on the sticky side of the tape where the purple paint soaked through. It's all a matter of chemistry: Tamiya tape and Model Masters lacquer don't agree. 

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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The tamiya tape needs to be removed pretty quick after you've done your painting, 24 hours is way too long for it. Its no use if you want to leave it on for a while as the sticky stuff stays behind. Saying that though I only use it for sharp edges and just use cheap stuff for the rest.

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With all due respect, I must disagree with you. Tamiya tape is probably the best available in my humble opinion. I have used it with all types of paint with no problems. Are you sure it’s Tamiya tape ? If I recall I purchased an unknown brand one time thinking it was Tamiya after getting home I realized it was not Tamiya. 

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Never mind, I will just try my 3M Automotive tape next time. It never let me down on something as expensive and precious as my 1:1 scale drivable street-legal gasoline-powered car. I've left that tape on my car for several days in the hot sun and it came off clean as a whistle with absolutely no paint penetration whatsoever. I will report back here how it goes. The questionable failed tape I bought from Hobby Lobby late last year said Tamiya on it indeed unless it's a counterfeit product they sold me. Suffice it to say, I'm done with it for painting. What one should do when buying a new masking tape they don't know is put it on piece of plastic model runner and spray a swatch of paint it before actually using it on a model. I'm going to do this test with my 3M car tape tomorrow. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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16 minutes ago, Redisetta said:

With all due respect, I must disagree with you. Tamiya tape is probably the best available in my humble opinion. I have used it with all types of paint with no problems. Are you sure it’s Tamiya tape ? If I recall I purchased an unknown brand one time thinking it was Tamiya after getting home I realized it was not Tamiya. 

Have you ever used it with rattle-can, hand paint-brush or even airbrush LACQUER? It might be nobody's fault. It's just two chemical products that don't agree. 

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Then I don't know. I used Model Master Auto Lacquer 2 Part System (28121, Matches Plymouth Plum Crazy Metallic) from an off-beat vendor called Model Roundup online. At least that is what is printed on the can label. One of the three cans of paint they sold me was actually defective: very weak spray pressure. I'm claiming a refund to them now by email. This Plum Crazy paint in rattle cans is out of production and it's now hard to get. I never decided to dive into airbrushing. 

 

I could even be now experiencing counterfeit or defective paint. Suffice it say, stay away from Model Roundup. Buy from a  reputable source like Hobby Lobby or amazon. If they no longer make your dream color then go with another color for your project.  

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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1 hour ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Have you ever used it with rattle-can, hand paint-brush or even airbrush LACQUER? It might be nobody's fault. It's just two chemical products that don't agree. 


I only use Lacquer from either a rattle can or an air brush and have never had issue with Tamiya tape. There IS the quality thin tape 8-18mm (that’s what I’ve used) and then the Tamiya 40mm is a very different type of tape. 

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5 minutes ago, Sandboarder said:


I only use Lacquer from either a rattle can or an air brush and have never had issue with Tamiya tape. There IS the quality thin tape 8-18mm (that’s what I’ve used) and then the Tamiya 40mm is a very different type of tape. 

The Tamiya tape I have says Width 10 mm on the label. Up until now, I thought all "model masking tape" was the same. I'm new in to model building with masking tape. The defective paint might be a culprit. I now have a second can of "Model masters" from this offbeat vender that has a bulge in the bottom. I put the can in a jar of scalding hot water for 5 minutes before shaking and using. As I was spray yesterday, I thought something went pop and I noticed the bulge on the bottom of the can just now. Is scalding-hot tap water too hot for rattle- can prep? 

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2 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

The Tamiya tape I have says Width 10 mm on the label. Up until now, I thought all "model masking tape" was the same. I'm new in to model building with masking tape. The defective paint might be a culprit. I now have a second can of "Model masters" from this offbeat vender that has a bulge in the bottom. I put the can in a jar of scalding hot water for 5 minutes before shaking and using. As I was spray yesterday, I thought something went pop and I noticed the bulge on the bottom of the can just now. Is scalding-hot tap water too hot for rattle- can prep? 


the can has gotten to hot if the bottom has popped out. I do use hot tap water for 10 minutes to warm my cans but have had the same thing happen. I’ll try a get a pic of some tapes.

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I very much doubt that Model Roundup, a retailer who has been around for years, is counterfeiting model paint.  That’s the kind of accusation that could get a lawsuit directed at you.

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Also, it just sounds like you’re spraying too much on their too quickly if it’s leaking underneath the tape.  

Use much lighter coats and build up the color slowly.  

Not every failed attempt at something is the fault of the product, or vendor who sold it to you…

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2 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

I very much doubt that Model Roundup, a retailer who has been around for years, is counterfeiting model paint.  That’s the kind of accusation that could get a lawsuit directed at you.

Model Roundup could have got their goods from a bogus source, who the Christ knows why I'm really having trouble. They had better give me my money back on that bad paint soon or I will file a dispute thru my credit card. 

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Here is the tapes I have used

 

XrBtRB4.jpg


Only the thick 40mm tape left residue behind that was a problem and I’ve never melted or had paint soak through any of them. 
 

RAtYqvU.jpg

 

I will say that I have used 2 cans of Model Master sprays and do not like them. Great colours but very different to spray compared to Tamiya cans. Model Master stink and goes a long time to cure (go hard) 

 

Also the older the can, like out of production stuff. You need to expect them to be old and faulty. Most would decant the paint for air brushing to avoid any low pressure issues associated with old stock.

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A bogus source is remaking long-discontinued rattle cans of paint for model cars and selling them to a reputable online retailer who no doubt has a long-standing relationship with the manufacturer of the real paint?  And they can make these production runs of fake paint cheap enough that they can undercut the real manufacturer? 

This doesn’t sound very feasible to me. 

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Two things ive learnt from my experience using Tamiya spray cans and Tamiya tape.

The paint layer to be masked over needs to be fully cured and the tape must be removed once second colour application is touch dry.

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25 minutes ago, Cool Hand said:

Two things ive learnt from my experience using Tamiya spray cans and Tamiya tape.

The paint layer to be masked over needs to be fully cured and the tape must be removed once second colour application is touch dry.

Both of those are best practice for any masking tasks with ANY products, IMO 👍🏻

Much less chance of cracking or tearing the paint if it’s still a little tacky when you peel the tape off - and it’ll end up giving you a crisper smoother edge if the paint still has chance to settle down a little after the mask has been removed.

I painted this this evening, using acrylics - these particular ones are pretty high-build compared to some paints.  You can see some of the stars have a visible ridge right now where the subsequent layers have built up:

7FA7C623-F9C5-493A-ABB5-D547B35E7194.thumb.jpeg.7fe918179f343bc693915890a294f3c0.jpeg

Soon as it was safe to do so, I was unmasking this thing, and my experience is that overnight those edges will flatten down a little bit as the paint cures.  Seems to work for me (and will work with Tamiya tape and lacquers, or whatever else you find at your disposal too…)

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OK..............I've been using Tamiya Tape for masking for MANY years now and I've had nary an issue. These pics will speak for themselves..........

Pb120790-vi.jpg
Pb120791-vi.jpg
Pc160840-vi.jpg

A still in progress '55 Ford which two toning was a must for the car I wanted to replicate........

P1016914-vi.jpg
P1016913-vi.jpg

I have to agree with what others have said about the tape. I only leave the tape on until the paint is dry to the touch. When pulling off the tape, NEVER pull the tape straight up. You'll want to pull it back, and then slowly at that. It might not hurt to use some clear paint along the edges before you paint to prevent any bleed under if there's a problem with soaking.

BTW, I've used Tamiya Tape on all sorts of paints and simply have not had an issue. Along with the use of Parafilm, it's my go-to source when I want to do two-toning or stripes.

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Read somewhere that Tamiya tape is Washi Masking Tape. I have been using Washi Masking tape for years with no real problems. It is not available in various widths like Tamiya. I cut mine into thin strips by cutting the tape on a glass surface with a steel rule and sharp craft knife.

Incidentally, art suppliers can supply rolls of very thin widths of vinyl tape for pin striping  that could also be used as a mask as it complies well to contours.

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The Charger was painted with TESTORS spray can enamels, and masked with Tamiya tape and blue painter's tape. No problems.

The blue pickup was painted with Extreme Lacquer spray can paint and masked with Tamiya tape. No problems.

The '49 Mercury was painted with Tamiya spray cans, and masked with Tamiya tape. Again, no problems.

The Nova wagon was painted with Krylon spray paint, and masked with blue painter's tape using the "torn edge" effect on the tape. This one is still in progress.

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11 hours ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Model Roundup could have got their goods from a bogus source, who the Christ knows why I'm really having trouble. They had better give me my money back on that bad paint soon or I will file a dispute thru my credit card. 

David, it sounds like you have your mind made up that the tape and the paint is the cause of your problem and none of the advice that anyone here gives you is going to do anything to change it. As you have already seen by the replies in this thread, modelers usually do not sit by idly when someone bashes a product, manufacturer or retailer that they use and like. Your problem sounds like user error to most of us and not faulty products. However, none of us are there and you haven't posted any photos so that we can get a better understanding at what might have gone wrong. Also, please go back and read the forum rules regarding language, politics and religion.

Most of us have used the same paint and tape that you have and have not experienced the same issue. I personally have used Model Master lacquer and Tamiya tape without issue, except when I did not burnish the edge of the tape down well enough and the paint seeped under. That was user error and not the fault of the tape or the paint. Some tapes will leave residue behind. To limit the chance of this happening, remove the tape as soon as possible. 24 hours is a long time to leave it on. Lacquer dries fast and I am usually removing the tape in 1-2 hours. I then let the painted parts sit over night so that the paint can fully cure.

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Counterfeit paint?  Really?  Now that is a new one on me.  :wacko:  As I see it, deflecting the blame for what looks like improper painting technique is not going to work here, where most of us use the same paints and tape that you used David.

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