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What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?


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1 hour ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I beg your pardon? Robdebie already suggested to me Andy X/Donn Yost on an earlier thread of mine. He is in fact a member here. I just ordered a Paasche H online and some other supplies based on HIS suggestion. 

 

David, that is a good airbrush to start with.. probably the most recommended one here.  When I first got into this hobby a couple of years ago I wanted to start with an airbrush too. I've since purchased a few and now have a Procon Boy PS-290 which is a true workhorse but I still love my Paasche H too.  The 290 is my main airbrush now though.  Enjoy it and post up some pics when you get a good paintjob.  If you do it like AndyX did it, it will come out great.

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11 hours ago, Cool Hand said:

Yeah totally agree. 

Its hilarious to always see discussions like this one go of the rails, because one person has the skills and knowledge that is far superior than others and that give's them the right to dominate the discussion. Happens all the time as they relish in getting the last word.

 

No, it's more like people getting frustrated and pissed off when they waste their precious time trying to help someone who asks questions and then not only ignores, but won't even acknowledge the help that they try to give.

Even just a, "hmm, I'll have to consider that" post might help give the impression that he's actually looking for advice.

 

If I ask for advice on a subject, it's obvious that I'm not going to implement every suggestion, but at the very least, I'm going to be courteous enough to acknowledge that it was received and understood.

 

 

 

 

Steve 

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Years ago, my friend, Mikey Yugo, repainted his 1:1 '68 Falcon using a paint roller. The result was really bad. He blamed the company that made the paint roller.

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I just got a reply from Rust-Oleum.

My message to them:

Hello:

I have a few questions regarding Testors clear coat products for plastic kitted models. I plan to airbrush my plastic kit static models with Testors enamel (in 0.25 oz. bottles) mixed with an equal part of lacquer thinner according to Andy-X's "modified Donn Yost" method. I plan to use a Paasche H airbrush with 35 psi and a No. 3 needle.

My models will have water slide decals applied to them. I will need a way to seal in the decals on some models with a gloss final finish and other models with a  flat final finish. Which Testors clear coat products work best for this purpose in airbrushing? Does Testors Dullcote and Glosscote need to be mixed with anything to make ready for the airbrush? Should decals be misted a couple times before heavy wet clear coats are applied? Are complete airbrushing instructions printed on the bottles? Please advise. Thank you.

 

Their repsonse today to me:

 

Hello David,

 

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.  We appreciate your interest in our products.  Please see the attached tips for application of decals.

Application of Glosscote is acceptable for both applications.  For the application which you desire a lower sheen / matte finish, the Dullcote may be applied over the top.

If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Jenn

 

I ordered both Testors Glosscote and Dullcote in bottles from amazon. These products get mostly 5 stars there. One reviewer says he uses 25% thinner or lacquer thinner while another customer likes 1:1 mix of the clear coat with thinner for airbrushing. Maybe "thin to win" on the clear coat over waterslides?? A couple of thin mist coats to protect decals. Many online sources stress a couple mist coats for decals. I believe it is 5-10 minutes between mist coats. I believe one can go heavy on clear but only after the decals get the few mist treatments. 

 

I have some spare clean model parts and some spare decals to practice with.  See how it goes before touching the actual parts slated to go into the model's contruction. 

 

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FWIW, the Glosscote enamel (at least the rattle cans) has a tendency to turn yellow over time. I have a couple of silver builds from the mid 1970s that now look like GM Spring Green. I wouldn't expect the bottles to behave differently.

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If your going to gloss coat decals, I highly recommend using a solvent on them to get them snugged down and let them dry for a day or 2. You definitely don’t want them loose when ya coat them…and Rodent is correct, Testors gloss does yellow over time.The only Testors gloss coat I ever liked was the Wet Look Clear laquer which I understand is hard to find now.

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4 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

No, it's more like people getting frustrated and pissed off when they waste their precious time trying to help someone who asks questions and then not only ignores, but won't even acknowledge the help that they try to give.

Even just a, "hmm, I'll have to consider that" post might help give the impression that he's actually looking for advice.

 

If I ask for advice on a subject, it's obvious that I'm not going to implement every suggestion, but at the very least, I'm going to be courteous enough to acknowledge that it was received and understood.

 

 

 

 

Steve 


Steve you are right, Preston isn’t reading our precious comment yet some of us are making quite large regular responses rather that stopping and letting this thread die.

 

OP has his answer, for the hundredth time Paasche H will fix all of his issues. Time to stop flogging the horse and let this let die

 

the end guys

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26 minutes ago, Sandboarder said:


Steve you are right, Preston isn’t reading our precious comment yet some of us are making quite large regular responses rather that stopping and letting this thread die.

 

OP has his answer, for the hundredth time Paasche H will fix all of his issues. Time to stop flogging the horse and let this let die

 

the end guys

I thought that in some strange turn of events, that if the thread continued, it would give the OP the opportunity to rectify his indifferent attitude towards those who have offered help, but sadly, it looks like that's not going to happen.

After all, I figured that it's in his best interest not to alienate those who might wish to help him on this board.

I can pretty much guarantee you that there are going to be a great deal fewer beneficial responses the next time that he needs help.

His loss I guess.

 

Besides, it appears that the "comprehensive" response that he got from Rustoleum was apparently exactly what he was after.

Not to mention the highly sought after product reviews. :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

Steve 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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On 9/16/2021 at 1:43 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

More power to him, but I'm never going to pay to watch a "how-to" modeling video.

 

I don't even watch You Tube videos on the subject.

 

 

 

 

Steve


Not sure how members lack of understanding of Patreon was going to help OP change his attitude and magically start reading comments and listening to those who bother to talk to him.

 

I do know if you started and Patreon Steve you would make a lot of money as you have many fans on this forum. 
 

36 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

After all, I figured that it's in his best interest not to alienate those who might wish to help him on this board.

I can pretty much guarantee you that there are going to be a great deal fewer beneficial responses the next time that he needs help.

His loss I guess.

 

Besides, it appears that the "comprehensive" response that he got from Rustoleum was apparently exactly what he was after.

Not to mention the highly sought after product reviews. :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

Steve 


If Karen’s email gives OP peace of mind about his NOS testers paint, good on him.


 

 

But let’s not pick on Karen, whoops I mean Jenn for her lack of air brushing experience, she probably saw the job listed on Craigslist, “Rustoleum office job, no product experience required”

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1 hour ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Hello David,

 

Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.  We appreciate your interest in our products.  Please see the attached tips for application of decals.

Application of Glosscote is acceptable for both applications.  For the application which you desire a lower sheen / matte finish, the Dullcote may be applied over the top.

If you have any additional questions or concerns please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Jenn

So David…..were there any attached tips?

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12 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

She told him that he could gloss coat over decals.

. . . and that was the reason for this thread in the first place: "What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?".

By "your" David meant "members of the forum", but he got the definitive answer right from Testors' mouth.  All is well in the world again!  We can now move on to David's next question. And as I mentioned earlier, the answer will be "42". 

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2 hours ago, Rodent said:

FWIW, the Glosscote enamel (at least the rattle cans) has a tendency to turn yellow over time. I have a couple of silver builds from the mid 1970s that now look like GM Spring Green. I wouldn't expect the bottles to behave differently.

I ordered Glosscote LACQUER in a bottle. 

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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

So David…..were there any attached tips?

Yes, only about decal application but nothing about clear-coating over them. I only have simple decals to lay on relatively-flat surfaces anyway. I will use the instructions as provided by my decal printer, www.highballgraphics.com, to lay the decals. Yes, a couple mist coats before laying clear heavy over the model. Back in 1992 I tried to clear-coat a model F-15 with a spray bomb from the hardware store and the decals just curled up and floated right off the model plane. I was dumping that stuff on heavy. That model was trash. I did also build a model R/C sailboat that same year with flat tan for the hull out of a spray bomb and that finish actually turned out pretty neat. I never have much trouble with flat paints out of an aerosol can, only gloss colors can give me nightmares. 

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1 hour ago, peteski said:

. . . and that was the reason for this thread in the first place: "What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?".

By "your" David meant "members of the forum", but he got the definitive answer right from Testors' mouth.  All is well in the world again!  We can now move on to David's next question. And as I mentioned earlier, the answer will be "42". 

I guess it's on us for not thinking more simply.

If that's all that the OP wanted was a yes or no about being able to spray clear over decals, the answer is "YES".

 

Never mind any of the dozens of variables.

 

 

 

 

Steve

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2 hours ago, Sandboarder said:


Not sure how members lack of understanding of Patreon was going to help OP change his attitude and magically start reading comments and listening to those who bother to talk to him.

 

I do know if you started and Patreon Steve you would make a lot of money as you have many fans on this forum. 
 


If Karen’s email gives OP peace of mind about his NOS testers paint, good on him.


 

 

But let’s not pick on Karen, whoops I mean Jenn for her lack of air brushing experience, she probably saw the job listed on Craigslist, “Rustoleum office job, no product experience required”

Actually Jenn does have airbrush experience , she has had her fingernails  airbrushed numerous time and is an expert.

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1 hour ago, peteski said:

. . . and that was the reason for this thread in the first place: "What is your method to the madness for clearcoating over decals on body perfectly?".

By "your" David meant "members of the forum", but he got the definitive answer right from Testors' mouth.  All is well in the world again!  We can now move on to David's next question. And as I mentioned earlier, the answer will be "42". 

I'm positive that the future answer to any questions will be 42.

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39 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

Actually he reminds me of our well grounded conversations with regular guy. LOL

I think I remember that. 
was he the guy that seemed to be able to type quite well, but apparently couldn’t read?

If I recall correctly, he always asked a lot of questions that he apparently already knew the answers to, and had no interest in the answers he got.

 

 

Steve

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