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Cap/Topper project for '98 Ford F150


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Anyone built one? My idea was to make a template shaped like the cab, and narrow it to match the tapered box in segments (like an egg crate) that I could wrap styrene sheet around. Not going well so far, 0.010" styrene sheet can be bent to match but is pretty thin for gluing and holding a smooth shape. More experimentation to come

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I made a full top for a '67 Jeepster a few years ago. I used .020 and laminated it. 

On your project, I would make a template of the top of the bed with .040. Think bed cover. Then glue the sides on top of it, the front and rear. Once you have the shape you want, add another layer to fine tune the shape. Then cut out the openings and lastly cut away the bottom.

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Hey, Bob.  Think about trying this.  use long strips of thin stock, say 0.020" and glue them longitudinally across those forms.  When they are all in place sand them down and fill in the gaps with putty or CA and sanding dust.  That keeps the curvature and makes it really strong.  Here's an example of what I mean.1988253029_0102-3-11.JPG.fb344b06527117374de9759dcb150c42.JPG

Those are all individual strips across the top of the body above the windshield.  Then they were sanded smooth.  Here's what I did inside.

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I mixed up some two part resin and poured it inside the top and sloshed it around until it started to set.  This made the inside just as smooth as the outside.  You should be able to adapt this method to what you are doing.  Just glue the strips to the two end bulkheads you have and use the in between ones just to hold the line of the strips.  Glue around them and then remove them when all is done.  Then you can fill in the gaps.  Let me know if this helps.

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17 hours ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Anyone built one? My idea was to make a template shaped like the cab, and narrow it to match the tapered box in segments (like an egg crate) that I could wrap styrene sheet around. Not going well so far, 0.010" styrene sheet can be bent to match but is pretty thin for gluing and holding a smooth shape. More experimentation to come

IMG_6043a.jpg

It could just be the angle of the photo, but it doesn’t look like your bulkheads are symmetrical? Fold a piece of paper and draw a half pattern, cut it out and unfold it. It will then be symmetrical. The method Charles suggested should work (think wooden barrel). I would go even thicker with the strips, like .060” maybe? More material to sand smooth. Good luck with it.

Edited by NOBLNG
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Thank you for the suggestions, one for box construction and the other using strips on frame construction. Thanks also for the tip on getting frame symmetry, seems obvious now. Picture of first attempt at wrapping frame with 0.010" styrene sheet, too thin and cap seems too narrow, needs another layer or use strip technique. I wanted to have a simple method, though...

IMG_6061a.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well my flexible styrene wrap idea didn’t pan out, so I went with some .040” styrene that I had heated and bent almost 90 degrees, cut and joined at the middle. The thickness will tolerate some final sanding to shape. I have the Lightning version of the kit to try a second attempt using this ‘bulkhead’ approach, the idea being to keep it simple. Next time…

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Bob, I am intrigued by your project.  You seem to be off to a great start. Much like you, I usually learn a lot as I build something custom, only to realize that a different approach may have worked a whole lot easier.  Sometimes it's a one-off project, and I will never do it again.  For the repeats, I try to create a master and pour resin, though I would like to get started in 3D printing.  I won't have the time until when I finally retire for good. In the meantime, I am enjoying watching your progress.  Carry on!  Kind regards, Dutch

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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress made on front and rear windows, but still refining the shape. Always thought of body filler kinda like cheating, you know, like adding bacon to a recipe. I was hoping to avoid it with my original bulkhead idea, but the sheet styrene wrap didn’t work out so here we are…prime, putty, sand, repeat, yawn…

 

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Body filler was still showing through multiple coats of Duplicolor sandable primer, so I gave it a coat of BIN sealer/primer, as recommended by truck modeller Tim Ahlborn. Seems to go on thick, but light sanding Is usually needed before colour anyway.
Also tried tinting the rear window yesterday with Testors black window tint, but it came out splotchy (it never really worked out every time I tried it in the past), so I guess I’ll use Tamiya smoke. This truck will be mostly blacked out behind the doors, just assembling the painted pieces now 

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2 hours ago, Smoke Wagon said:

Well done Bob. The canopy hugs the contours of that F-150 nicely. I like how you did the rear window, the knobs are a really nice touch.

Thanks! Kept it simple for the first one but it had to have a back window

Edited by hct728(Bob)
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2 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Looks about like the one I have on my 1:1 F-150, although I do have side windows.  Really nice work, will have to try this myself one of these days (famous last words).  BTW, your avatar interests me as I am a school bus driver

I have a soft spot for school buses myself! Both 1/25 scale but the big one doesn’t have an interior, lots of fun making them though

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Edited by hct728(Bob)
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  • 6 months later...
11 hours ago, Saltie Olds said:

That canopy looks awesome. It looks like it came with the kit and wasn’t scratch built. Great Awesome Work.

Thanks a lot! I took a photo of it next to its big brother at our last club meeting. I plan to try one again with the Moebius pickups, will have to have the vintage look, though, they were aluminum-skinned back then IIRC

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