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Rough Terrain Freightliner


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This idea uses 3 kits. The base is a 1:32 amphibious tank. The body needed to be spun so the taper is in the back along with the drive cogs. Then fill in the big void left over from the turret. Built a tail roller and added tread plate over the repair. I found the easiest part ( and it was all luck) when I cut the cab so it would mount up, it fit exactly like I needed it , interior and all associated parts too. Started mounting the Peerless logging equipment on board today, and so far no glitches.🤞😃20211005_181817.thumb.jpg.286ae22855400df7441fb3b5bae2baac.jpg20211005_150953.thumb.jpg.81cd2fe02188d0f1616fb59731981671.jpg20211005_150848.thumb.jpg.288f922efa588f3a0758cb1d392c4c01.jpg

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19 hours ago, gotnitro? said:

 

Some utilities company is laying groundwork for upgrades nearby.There's similar tracked vehicles driving around the woods on wood platforms.

In the early 90's I worked as a driver for an electrical contractor for the power company, they had a few Husky 8's and some bigger tracked vehicles to bring in float flat beds on those wooden crane mats. 

Edited by BIGTRUCK
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Added another kit into the mix, an M1 A1 Abrams tank by Academy in 1:35th to be converted into my rear power . After much cutting and many test fits this is pretty close to where its going. The tracks are a loose fit as they needed to be shortened and are just on for the mock up. Now I have many tank parts left over if anyone is needing.

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4 hours ago, Bainford said:

Very cool project. Is the trailer portion powered? A hydraulic pump on the tractor, some hoses to a hydraulic motor on the trailer would do it.

I have a long way to go, I have hangers to  hold up lines. The hard part was getting the tracks on the rear unit rejoined as they were trimmed down to fit the cut-down body. This build is still pretty much in the trial and error stage..😀

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I like it. You may want to swap the drive wheel with the forward idler wheel, the drive wheel would never be that close to the ground, always up high to avoid getting rocks and garbage caught in it. 

I love the creativity and the direction this is going, keep up the good work. 

Edited by Oldmopars
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18 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

 The drive wheel would never be that close to the ground

I wanted to keep the drive on both units to the back but I can raise the drives up some and back to tighten the tracks. Cut off the wheel dowel pins and install the drive wheels on evergreen rod. Thanks for the heads up.

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On 10/22/2021 at 4:04 PM, BIGTRUCK said:

I wanted to keep the drive on both units to the back but I can raise the drives up some and back to tighten the tracks. Cut off the wheel dowel pins and install the drive wheels on evergreen rod. Thanks for the heads up.

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you got it going your way now , only thing i see u need to do and im sure u already know is the trailer stinger needs to be at least another 2 inches added to the front (dont want the rear to close to the truck) and at least another 2 to 3 inches out the back . another thing are u gonna also haul the trailer on the back of the truck ?  if so make sure u got the right width on the rear tracks..i know i rattle to much but im a scratch builder and just trying to help..

Edited by yh70
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

After being on the back burner for a few months, I picked up the pace and started to get things done. Chopping the rear unit and getting the tracks fused back together took time. 20220426_145321.thumb.jpg.80059c4b09c12537d538fb715601c054.jpgThe work thats taking the most time is weathering every piece being used no matter how small before adding it to the model, sometimes painting an item 3 colors to achieve a certain look, then lightly hit it with 400 grit . A long way to go but its time to stay with it ...

 

 

 

 

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