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Weights of Testors Products per Fluid Ounce: I have written to Rust-Oleum Product Support (US)


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Thanks, tbill, but my plan is to practice first on plastic part runner material from model kits. I'm not out to make the hobby industry super rich with expensive painting flops if I can help it. I'm still waiting for a few things before I can start my painting practice as a greenhorn airbrush person. 

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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3 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

Thanks, tbill, but my plan is to practice first on plastic part runner material from model kits. I'm not out to make the hobby industry super rich with expensive painting flops if I can help it. I'm still waiting for a few things before I can start my painting practice as a greenhorn airbrush person. 

The offer still stands. Been there, done it, probably have the T shirt around here somewhere, lol.

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A parts runner and a body are 2 completely different animals.

Painting a parts runner might help you get your paint to the right sprayable consistency, but it's not going to help you get a "perfect" paint job on a body.

Practice will do that.........and not on parts runners.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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If you want to ride a bike, you can read all the books you can find, you can watch all the videos youtube can provide, you might even find a video game with immersive virtual reality  but none of it will help you when the rubber meets the road.

This is one of those things you can only learn and improve on by doing it. 

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16 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

What are you waiting for?

You have paint, thinner and an air brush, right?

 

 

 

Steve

I'm curious about what else he needs. I might suggest a quality respirator, no matter what type paint is being sprayed.

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31 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I agree that sprue does not make a large enough test surface. A large curvy surface like spoon…….or maybe even a model😈would make a far better test surface.  

It’s a little like thinking that you can learn how to pour concrete, or do drywall by buttering your toast every morning. 😑

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Oh boy, round 4...popcorn.gif.31f44c718cc1c9469679708ce350a2c6.gif

If you haven't purchased whatever product you plan to strip paint with, should you do not get the finish you desire, you may want to buy it before you paint. As the Boy Scout saying goes, "Be Prepared".

I'd suggest buying a container that will hold larger items too.

Edited by DPNM
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2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

It’s a little like thinking that you can learn how to pour concrete, or do drywall by buttering your toast every morning.

I find that different brands of butter and different types of bread affect the outcome of my toast. Even the ambient temperature and relative humidity of the kitchen can change it. Sometimes I have to put the toast in the purple pond and re-butter.

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/video/femail/video-2294376/Video-Nigella-Lawson-shares-two-stage-approach-buttering-toast.html

I did find this video online that I have tried several times and have been successful with.

Edited by Rodent
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3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

What are you waiting for?

You have paint, thinner and an air brush, right?

 

 

 

Steve

I need my plastic pill cups still on mail order. Those are for cleaning up airbrush parts. I still am waiting for a response from Rust-Oleum.  What else could I do paint practice on the cheap besides the car bodies tbill offered to send me? Plastic drink cups? Campbell's soup cans? 2-litter plastic soda bottles? 1 gallon plastic spring water jugs? In SW Oklahoma I live in an apartment and cannot spray indoors. I have to wait until the weather is right to put up my paint booth tent outside up. We had 55 mph winds the other day here. I have limited space to store stuff too. 

 

I am not actually working on model cars right now but a model diesel truck tractor. The hood, cab, visor, sleeper, air cleaners, sleeper steps, steering column, battery box and cab step have to be painted in body color. The cab interior ceiling will be painted in body color as well as the underside of the Kenworth conventional hood. The interior bucket will be white. 

 

A semitrailer model is to follow the tractor. Following that will be a jet plane and then a helicopter. 

Edited by Plumcrazy Preston
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22 minutes ago, Plumcrazy Preston said:

I need my pill cups on order. I still am waiting for a response from Rust-Oleum.  What else could I do paint practice on cheap besides the car bodies tbill offered to send me? Plastic drink cups? Old tin cans? 2-litter plastic soda bottles? 1 gallon plastic spring water jugs? In SW Oklahoma I live in an apartment and cannot spray indoors. I have to wait until the weather is right to put up my paint booth tent outside up. We had 55 mph winds the other day here. I have limited space to store stuff too. 

Here’s an idea for you.

Get a gallon of Super Clean degreaser/cleaner, and fill a large enough plastic container to fully submerge a model car body.

If your planning on using enamel paint thinned with enamel thinner anyway, it will strip back to clean plastic in literally minutes, so you can get one model car body, practice on it, drop it in the Super Clean for an hour, rinse it off and practice again.

You can literally practice on the same body a thousand times.

The Super Clean will never harm the plastic, and enamel strips extremely quickly, easily and cleanly.

Problem solved.

 

Oh, and by the way, don’t waste your time waiting for a response from Rustoleum.

It’s a total red herring.

Nobody, and I mean NOBODY, weighs their paint!

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Even if Rustoleum sent you MSDS sheets, they are useless for mixing paint. They only tell you what it's made of, how caustic it is, what safety equipment you need, how to clean up spills, etc. Mixing paint is done by parts of paint to parts of reducer, catalyst, etc, not by weight of each.

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10 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Nobody, and I mean NOBODY, weighs their paint!

 

Steve


Not true. Nobody weights their paint as OP has suggested. Their is no need to know the weight until your mixing it on scales.

 

Just skip to 3:50 it’s the best video I could find in a short time. Yes he’s talking about custom colours but he does the paint to thinner mixes like this too

 

 

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1 hour ago, Sandboarder said:


Not true. Nobody weights their paint as OP has suggested. Their is no need to know the weight until your mixing it on scales.

 

Just skip to 3:50 it’s the best video I could find in a short time. Yes he’s talking about custom colours but he does the paint to thinner mixes like this to

 

Okay, I stand corrected. There's one.

Anybody else? :rolleyes:

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Testing the paint on sprues or unused parts from the kit being painted won't be good practice for doing the actual spraying, but it will help determine if the paint is compatible with the plastic or not.

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1 hour ago, Mark said:

Testing the paint on sprues or unused parts from the kit being painted won't be good practice for doing the actual spraying, but it will help determine if the paint is compatible with the plastic or not.

That's not always the case either.

I've sprayed Duplicolor lacquer over bare plastic sprue before with no discernible affect, but I've seen what it can do to a body.

 

 

Steve

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8 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

That's not always the case either.

I've sprayed Duplicolor lacquer over bare plastic sprue before with no discernible affect, but I've seen what it can do to a body.

 

 

Steve

When you test on sprue, do you prep the piece of sprue the same way you would the body parts? I'm wondering if that might make a difference on the way the paint reacts to the plastic.

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One might test paints and solvents on runners, not sprues.
 

Quote

A sprue is a vertical passage through which the molten material flows into the casting mold, it is the first channel for liquid plastic to enter the mold cavity, and it is also the primary part of pressure transmission, so its size will affect the flow speed and filling time of liquid plastic. The sprue connects the pouring basic to the runner, it is usually tapered downwards to minimize turbulence and the formation of air bubbles. The sprue is used to guide the plastic down from the sprue gate into the runner, inner gate, or directly into the cavity.

runner2.jpg.13fe46eb4de8044434914d640fee8245.jpg

Jargon Police ending transmission. Six-two and even, over and out.

1407382988_dicttracy.jpg.0c058831bdb4ef4236cf464a5dd80153.jpg

 

Edited by SfanGoch
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5 hours ago, Kool Kat said:

I for one just can't wait to see the first paint job that come from all this. Geez.

Well it seems to me that once you calculate the math and add in the science, after watching a YouTube video of how someone else does it, you should end up with a perfect paint job.

It must not matter at what angle, how near or how far the airbrush is held from the piece being sprayed. Needle/nozzle adjustment must not be critical either. Practicing on the runner should dial it in.

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