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Tamiya NSX


lghtngyello03

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9 hours ago, Mattilacken said:

Beautiful build! Looks sharp as always!

Thank you very much!! 

5 hours ago, MikeyB08 said:

Absolutely stunning!!!

Thanks buddy! 

3 hours ago, bisc63 said:

Beautiful build; great attention to clean detailing, and superbly presented! Very well done. ...and ain't she PRETTY?!

Thanks for the kind words man!!! 

2 hours ago, PappyD340 said:

Looks fantastic!

Thank you sir! 

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On 11/5/2021 at 10:36 PM, Olskoolrodder said:

Wow that thing looks 1:1/real, awesome job! :D

Thanks man!  I definitely love the outcome of this build.  I plan on doing another one in the future with another loud/off the wall OEM color as well.

On 11/6/2021 at 12:18 PM, Funkychiken said:

its a fantastic build, and the paint really pops, thanks also for your instructions on painting the body shell!

Thank you!! I hope the painting process helps some people!

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 11/2/2021 at 3:15 AM, lghtngyello03 said:

Sure thing man! It's long, but I am going to try to be as detailed as possible and hope it helps anyone!

  • Prep - I prep my body as normal, such as, remove all mold lines, scribe all panel lines super deep, then finish the bare plastic with a quick sanding with 2000 grit sand paper to remove any stray highs from the panel line scribing edges.Of course you always want to wash the body with a good dish soap and soft brush, to degrease it.
  • Primer - After your prep is done on your body and it's clean, I spray the primer through my Paasche Talon with a 0.38mm needle @ 27 - 30 psi. Their primer likes to be sprayed on heavy and wet to lay down smoothly (waiting 5 minutes in between coats.) Let the primer dry on its own, no dehydrator. Then, you can sand smooth with some 2000 grit paper, and wash the body again to clean it up.  If you don't sand with this primer, the color coat may not have a good surface to "bite" onto and it could possibly pull up if you plan on doing any masking before clear for other color coats. After you've sanded and cleaned the body after your primer coats, you can spray color.  
  • Color Again, I spray the color through the same airbrush, same needle size (0.38mm,) and the same pressure settings (27-30psi) and work in light mist coats (waiting 5 minutes between coats.)  You could do heavy coats right off the bat, if you are using Splash Primer and Splash Color, but I play it safe and spray mist coats until you can lay a medium-ish coat. After your color is sprayed, it can dry in the dehydrator....I've never had any bad luck with this.  Remember if you sand a metallic based paint before clear, due to trash in the paint or a flaw of some sort, you have to respray with additional coats of color.  If not, you will see every sanding mark you made once you apply clear, and it will have to be sanded down and resprayed in that area.
  • Clear Coat - After any decals have been laid down on the body, or any additional colors have been sprayed, I wait a day or so to make sure the decals are dry, or the paint is gassed out before I clear. I also spray clear with the exact same airbrush needle size as everything previously sprayed (0.38mm) as well as the same pressures (27-30psi.)   ----- The clear is a 3:1 mix ratio, so 3 parts Clear coat to 1 part hardener/reducer. 
  1. Your first coat or two needs to be a light, or tack, coat (Waiting 5 Minutes between coats) This way you don't kill any decals, (if any were laid down prior to) or craze the color coat.  This also gives your following coats something to latch onto and not run. 
  2. The 3rd coat needs to be a medium-wet coat, moving slowly but a little heavier than your tack coats. (wait 5 minutes between next coat)
  3. The 4th coat needs to be your wet coat.  Move a little faster than your 3rd coat with your gun, but lay down a heavier layer of clear.  I have started playing with how much I thin the last coat of my clear on each job.  So I'll add more reducer/hardener to my final coat. You have to be careful doing this as if it gets too thin.... it will run.  This helps in the leveling of the clear as it cures, as 2k clear is a self leveling clear coat.  This will take care of your "orange peel" effect and greatly reduce the amount of wet sanding and polishing that will be done in the end.
  4. After your last coat of clear is laid down and you are satisfied, you can either let air dry under a vented cover to keep dust off of it, or throw it in the dehydrator.  I use the lowest setting on my dehydrator of 95 degrees and let it bake for a couple of hours until I handle it at all.
  • Wet Sanding/Polishing -  I wait 3-5 days for the clear to fully cure before any sanding is done at all.  I start with 3600 grit sanding sponges, and work my way all the way to 12,000 grit. When starting a different grit, make sure to sand in the opposite direction of the previous.  So if you went left to right on the previous grit, change to up and down or front to back (depending on panel.)  Make sure you wash the body down and change your water out with fresh water in your bowl between grit changes. This makes sure there is no grit left behind from previous coarse grits to cause further marring.  Then, once all grits are complete with sanding, I polish out with Meguiar's Scratch X and then follow with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish, using some small pads and my Dremel. 

Awesome information‼️

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  • 4 weeks later...

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