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Revell 30 Ford


CabDriver
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I’ve been waiting for 5 years to build this kit.  I saw one of the original issues in Rudy’s in Queens when it was first released, and I figured ‘meh, I don’t wanna schlepp it around all day - I’ll grab one next time’…and by the time it was next-time, you couldn’t get them any more (at least not for the kinda price I was willing to pay…)

So, I’ve been excited to get one of these on the bench!  I think Tim Boyd called this kit a ‘bench clearer’ - one of those kits where, when you get your hands on one, you clear the bench right away and start working on it…so soon as it arrived yesterday I cleared the bench, and started prepping parts!

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I’m going with the ‘version A’ from the manual, which is the Highboy version on the Deuce frame, Deuce grill (just because I haven’t built an A with one of those yet), probably go with the tuck ‘n’ roll interior like the blue car on the box and use those nice injector trumpets too

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I’ve built three of the roadster version of this kit already, so not expecting any surprises (famous last words…) but I’m going to keep fairly close to box-stock just to see how this variant goes together…maybe a few little upgrades and modifications but nothing crazy.

Got everything in primer this morning and getting set to start the paint process here; the loose inspiration is something like this…

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…but in a candy red with candy flames.

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More soon - gotta go airbrush! 🤪

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Tom, if I might ask, where did you get your kit from?  Last week when I spoke with my buddy at the hobby shop he said he has not seen Revell shipping anything.  Is yours one of the early promo releases?

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1 hour ago, Zippi said:

Tom, if I might ask, where did you get your kit from?  Last week when I spoke with my buddy at the hobby shop he said he has not seen Revell shipping anything.  Is yours one of the early promo releases?

They are in stock at the usual online vendors now.  Got mine from Model Roundup today. 

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It’s paint day!  Shot the body (plus the frame, engine dash and suspension pieces) in a base coat of Testor’s silver, first up:

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Then shot a gradient of white, candy yellow, candy orange and candy red over top of the silver base down the side of the body:

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Then, cut a couple of flame masks:

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Then, another coat of silver, with a little gunmetal silver shading to add a little depth:

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Then, finally, the fun part - candy red topcoat!

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You can see some of those gunmetal lowlights peeking through the candy color here:

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Then, carefully, remove the masks:

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Needs a couple of little touch ups (this Createx candy lays down REALLY nicely, but if you remove it at the wrong time in a five-minute window it’ll either chip or pull like chewing gum) and then it’ll be time to clear it!

More soon, thanks for looking! 

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21 hours ago, Zippi said:

Tom, if I might ask, where did you get your kit from?  Last week when I spoke with my buddy at the hobby shop he said he has not seen Revell shipping anything.  Is yours one of the early promo releases?

There’s one on eBay for $25.75

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A little tiny bit more progress - had to get all the major components in clear so I could start actually assembling anything - so spent the last couple of nights laying some Rustoleum lacquer down.  Don’t shoot lacquer as often as a lot of people do, but I DO love how quick it dries. 

Bunch of parts cleared, and ready to be polished then detailed…

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Shot 8 coats of clear on the body - shooting flames like this always adds some steps and lumps on the edges that I want to polish out as best I can, so I gave myself plenty of material to work with:

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Polished out the body tonight, after it had 48 hours in the dehydrator to set up nice and hard - used the usual polishing grits from 2400 up to 12000, then Scratch X followed by Novus 2.  Not finished yet, but it’s looking shiny, I didn’t burn through the clear and the edges of the flames levelled out nicely:

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I’ll give that some more attention over the weekend - I prefer polishing in daylight if I can so I can see what needs more attention…

In the meantime, I picked out a Wicked Colors pearl white for the wheels and firewall - I wanted to do something a little more interesting than plain old white - but honestly the flake is pretty subtle anyway…had to really zoom in and increase the contrast on these pics to be able to see it 🤪

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By the way - I NEVER like painting parts on the sprues…but the clever way Revell designed these wheels means you totally can, if you like.  Sure makes it easy!

Ive been trying to master using Future for some smaller parts - I never really got a great finish with it when I’d tried it before, so I used the firewall as a test.  I kept it perfectly flat and brushed on three really wet coats over the course of a few hours and it’s the best results I’ve had with the stuff ever.  Not that there aren’t a thousand perfectly good clear-coats out there, but I never actually managed to get results I was happy with with Future and I wanted to see if I could master it…I think that firewall actually looks TOO glossy now, it’s got that ‘dipped in syrup’ look, a little, but it looks good in real life and not on a screen.

Can’t wait to start assembling some stuff next - I’m looking forward to messing with that Nailhead especially!  More soon!

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That is looking magic! Great to see a shiny one, I'm a bit over rust! You got a beautiful fade away on those flames.

I have a gloss black one on the bench as a Pro Street version with an alloy BBC but will probably buy another two of the new release.

Cheers

Alan

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Thanks fellas!  Appreciate all the nice words!

Spent a BUNCH of time on this thing today, and barely made any progress 🤪😂

I wanted to work on that cool Nailhead today, and although I’m building this thing roughly out of the box I still wanted to add some little upgrades and have a chance to practice my machining skills.  So, I spent the morning making aluminum replacements for the kit’s oil filter, oil filler, starter and starter solenoid:

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As you can see, I also added a black wash to the chrome parts too to bring out that nice detail.  I like using either thinned down black craft paint or India ink for my washes, but I sometimes find that they don’t flow out very nicely over chromed parts and they can turn out a little blotchy.  Did some experimenting today and mixed up a little Createx balancing clear with the India ink to see if it would help it lay down better, and it seems like it worked pretty well!  I’ll store that trick away for future use…

Whilst I was at the lathe anyway, I figured I’d turn a new steering shaft to replace the kit piece, just because I thought it would be quick and easy and I haven’t made one before.  Took me the rest of the afternoon 🙄😂.  

Tricky thing was that the shaft is pretty narrow at points, but relatively long, which meant I kept bending and ruining them.  I think a better grade aluminum would’ve worked better than the stuff I had here which is pretty soft, but I got something semi-acceptable after five or six tries:

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Problem was, I wasn’t really happy with the machining marks you can see on the part and didn’t dare mess with it much more on the lathe for fear of ruining it…but I’d been meaning to try out my $2 Goodwill kid’s rock tumbler for a while and decided to tumble the part and see how it worked out.  Dropped the part in the barrel and added some grit:

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And let it spin for a few minutes then gently cleaned it up…success!

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Got a nice semi-satin finish and removed most of the marks - it’ll definitely be acceptable for a part that’s pretty well hidden under the header anyway. 

Say all that to say, didn’t get very far on the engine, but I had a fun day in the shop!  

More progress tomorrow, hopefully!

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Hi Jim

The success to making long thin parts like a steering column is to make it from some shorter parts. Like make up the parallel main column and drill a hole at each end for the locator at the bottom and one for the top od the column. Then turn the column top which is shorter and will not flex so much. When machining smal diameter  

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Hi Jim

Using my new computer and hit the submit button too soon

..... When machining small diameter parts the speed need to be very high to get a good finish. Also if you can support with a steady at the non chuck end with a lathe centre in the tailstock end

Cheers

Bill-e-boy

 

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