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Hi, Gents! :pi_ra_t:
I decided to build a Hummer "out of the box" in contrast to TopKick.
I have bought it started. The torpedo and the engine were already glued and, it seems, on the Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Barely tore the engine cover off "with meat". Levers and pedals are also already glued. :(
The engine and frame are also assembled. someone patched the grooves on the frame before me.
I started to putty cavities on interrior
But the main reason for the opening of the VIP: I want to peel off the deflectors and black panels from the torpedo to paint separately. I put it to soak in the brake liquid for a week. Sometimes the parts, deeped into the brake liquid come apart. But it depends on the glue. I was able to tear off only two deflectors (again "with meat"). The rest is stay in place.

Question: are there any other ways to take a part the parts glued with plastic glue?
All that comes to my mind is: "remove the plastic with a milling cutter from the back side and squeeze out the panels. Only it will be more difficult to glue them back.

Next I cut off - 1mm excess of the roof
diagonally cut the lower edge of the window frame and the opposite part of the side panel
.. and now the roof sits down without deflection between the first and middle posts
But this is just one of the fails of the final assembly. In the rear part of the body, a horizontal gap is visible between the roof and the sidewall. The fenders, which are part of the interior, prevent them from coming together. We still need to sand them a little.
"That's all, Folks!" :)

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Thank you, Anton!

Yes, this kit is not so easy. Some parts needs dry fitting and fine tuning. But my motivation is not depends on complexity of the kit.

My motivation - is beauty of prototype. And I'll try ny best to repeat it in plastic. 

Edited by Sergey
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  • 1 month later...

Happy New Year To all!
My last update this year:
I decided to change all blind turn signals and marker lights to transparent ones. That's how it was.
and so it turned out. Yes, these transparent sprues are from Tamiya's Modena. Right next to the side windows. Slices of it - fit perfectly.
Here I have moulded the marker lights. Then I 'll fill it with transparent resin
I cleaned the underside of the rear gate from the pushers. At the same time, I changed the overlay bar to a thinner one. I also drilled and cut the pins with a hole (I don't know what it is). They are difficult to mask, and they should be painted black.
Yes, here I decided to change the tactics of masking: Disguised BEFORE painting, so as not to cut the paint. Let's see how will it go later.
Here I made the upholstery on the central posts
And finally I started dismantling the dashboard panels. The excess that was removed was sealed with epoxy. It dries.
Question? Is this panel line, which is formed when the roof and back wall are joined, is there on a real car? I didn't find any good photos of the back of the roof. So I am tormented by doubt: glue and putty before painting, or to glue them together - after.
HAVE A NICE HOLIDAYS to everyone!!!! :)

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Hi, Gents! http://scalecustoms.ru/uploads/emoticons/default_drag_06.gif

The kit I bought "from hand" turned out to be missing the C54 part. 
...this is the panel covering this hole:
It follows from the reference photos that there should be cup holders and pockets with lids
So I made a blank from profiles
The hole was covered with a piece of styrene, because this whole gear cover is the same color. Yes, I cut off all the elements, that should be sprayed black
In my version of C54 - all black elements will be inserted after coloring
Couldn't resist trying on a cup for another project
I cut off the cigarette lighters completely. I'll replace them with homemade ones
The hats were punched with his old puncher. For diameters of 1 and 1.5 mm, it is still needed.
Enjoy watching!

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  • 1 month later...

Hello, dear colleagues!
Today is the day when there is something to show, but not so much has been done:
I made a batch of castings from transparent resin. While I'm writing the post, the second batch is maturing
I've made slits in the handles of the rear doors
I cut the door cards in half, because the upper part is the same color as the door.
Added a magnet
I have sanded the tires first with the 80th grid, then with the 220th. 
Sawed the inner back wall to make it easier to insert the glass later.
... although it was possible not to do. The glasses slip through these frames.
I decided to cut a couple of details of the engine compartment.
My usual problem with the details of different colors
The photo shows a drilled exhaust pipe (green arrow). For contrast, the pipe under the tow bar has not yet been drilled (red arrow)
... and here - already drilled. I really got carried away, I took off too much
I decided to carry out the dry fit to the maximum
Please note that the hood does not close, no matter what I already do... It is necessary to disassemble and adjust all the parts responsible for this.
As a summary: The kit is replete with details. Some are even frankly superfluous. Many parts are cast with zero clearance. Barely fit into each other. There are a couple of parts with such a gap that polystyrene needs to be glued. But the plastic will have to be removed from the hood hinge/ bumper/frame. Because of all that has been said, you definitely won't have to be bored. However, the vehicle is worth it. Brutal-brutal, and everything opens up. You just need patience with fine-tuning. :)
Enjoy watching photos and ask questions! :)

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  • 10 months later...

Hello, Friends!

There is something to update in this topic. Finally, on the fourth attempt, the hood bent. Now it touches the plane with all 4 points. 🆒 The truth is now another trouble: the rear edge of the hood has become an arc. I don't know whether to leave it like that or think something. When I have barely achieved a certain success, I am already afraid to bend further. May return to the original state. :(42_online

The recipe is like this (suddenly someone will come in handy): we boil the water and pour everything except the grill (the bars are thin there, I was afraid that it would lead) and bend it, and you need to bend it into cold water with a margin, because the hood springs back a little after a couple of hours. Only in order not to walk on my rake, it is better to file (and then glue back and fill up) the front corners of the hood. They give the entire structure maximum rigidity. 43_online

But the convergence of the hood and ... the wings are better now than they were 37_online

And everything would be great, if not for one more thing, namely:


Does anyone have a similar photo of a real car? I rummaged through a bunch of photos yesterday, but I didn't find such an angle. Can there really be such a gap between the hood and the windshield frame?

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hello everyone!

I learned that front wheels have very small turn angle. So let's try to fix it
Front wheels rotation axis is tilted. The green arrow show us problem point:  the plane of contact of the upper lever and the upper part of the "rotary fist" have a slope that is not perpendicular to the axis of rotation - which prevents normal rotation. I sanded the pad on the lever, and left it on the rotary fist.
Let's look at the white insert in the transverse steering rod and realize that this is not all adventures. It was necessary to cut the steering rod into 3 parts (God loves the Trinity) in order to bend its side parts more curvly, which rested in the turn on the stabilizer bar and its brackets.
Here are brackets
The left wheel is rotated more because the split steering rod has more mobility and can stretch and contract. It may be worth replacing it with a wire, but we will have to make new brackets at the ends. Although I have already fixed some broken parts in places. In general, I'll  shouldthink over.
The angle is not great, but you can see how the right third of the steering rod still rests on the stabilizer.
But now this chariot does not look like a tram
Thank you for watching! I hope this will help to someone else.

Edited by Sergey
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  • 1 month later...

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