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Has anyone used Folk Art (acrylic) paint?


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I bought a bottle of this stuff at Hobby Lobby, but I'm not impressed by the way it goes on.  Maybe that has something to do with the fact that I'm used to working with enamels.  

I assumed my Gunze Mr Color thinner would help, but it didn't seem to mix well with it.  (There are YouTube videos showing this stuff working with all kinds of enamels, acrylics and lacquers).

Ultimately, I'd like to know what I can use to reduce this stuff so I can airbrush it.

Possible bonus: I placed a couple drops of this paint (#99258 Galaxy Blue), on a piece of white paper.  While still wet, it looks a lot like early Ford engine blue before they started using every lighter shade under the sun.  IIRC, the original color was called Corporate Blue.  

Edited by Monty
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I have used it via airbrush.  A quick search on YouTube for homemade craft paint thinner will get you lots of results.  Sorry I do not have the formula I used in front of me but it is distilled water and windshield washer in equal amounts, some isopropyl alcohol and a drop or two of glycerin. Formulas vary. Some like Windex. Some will argue of Windex with or without ammonia.  Mine worked well for me for interior parts.  I have not tried to shoot a body with it.  I’m a lacquer guy.

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FolkArt likes water and alcohol with a little retarder. I mix up 3 oz at a time, using 91% drug store IPA and Liquitex retarder which I always have on hand. So it's 60% bottled or distilled water, 40% IPA and 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder for each 3 oz. You can get just a trace amount of dish soap on a pin or end of a mixing stick ( less than a typical drop) and put that in there too as surface tension breaker. Just that trace element in the thinner is plenty. The retarder stops tip dry.

Same thinner for Apple Barrel and Ceramcoat. I use a different blend on Decoart and other craft paints. Also just about a must do, is to prime first.

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2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

FolkArt likes water and alcohol with a little retarder. I mix up 3 oz at a time, using 91% drug store IPA and Liquitex retarder which I always have on hand. So it's 60% bottled or distilled water, 40% IPA and 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder for each 3 oz. You can get just a trace amount of dish soap on a pin or end of a mixing stick ( less than a typical drop) and put that in there too as surface tension breaker. Just that trace element in the thinner is plenty. The retarder stops tip dry.

Same thinner for Apple Barrel and Ceramcoat. I use a different blend on Decoart and other craft paints. Also just about a must do, is to prime first.

The Dave formula works well with any Craft paints I've used it in.

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4 hours ago, Monty said:

Thanks for the info, guys.  That universal formula's out there & I'm sure I can find it fairly easily.

Dave G & Nacho Z, any pics of bodies painted with Folk Art you can post up?  

Sorry, Monty, I haven’t shot any bodies, just interiors. I like the flat sheen I get.  By the way, I know several guys who thin craft paint with Future to shoot bodies with.  It gives an nice semi-gloss sheen.

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56 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

The body is actually Craft Smart ( crappier paint than Folk Art but same thinner used, the topped with Tamiya X-22 clear not polished. The interior is Folk art and the underbody is Stynylrez black primer. The engine is Folk art.

Image preview

Can't see the image Dave.

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Lets try a different one. 49 Ford base coated in RoseGold craft paint, second photo non polished Tamiya clear red mixed with a little clear blue, sprayed thinned with Lt and shot over the craft paint, which I believe was Craft Smart ( I have RoseGold in both Craft Smart and FolkArt,my thinner works in either). Didn't down size but it's off my phone so who knows what happened in email. These are not sanded or polished. And the images are over sharpened, probably compressed so not that great really.390074684_thumbnail_20191107_12394349base.jpg.ef7373cc5ba85e6e9883c9f32bafa8a8.jpg2124869197_thumbnail_20191109_08465049Ford.jpg.32efeed3da1bfc43ec7803a15986cc64.jpg

Edited by Dave G.
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2082687598_thumbnail_20191025_165940topview.jpg.0f48484bb46f8e7afb111b97c4d60079.jpg494349468_thumbnail_20191026_170647mustang2ndshot.jpg.143b538771a885f88dcf844964ae431a.jpgSame deal, craft paint base coat, Tamiya clear blue top coat. None of these are buffed yet in these photos and the base coat shots are dry. The clear blue went in the dehydrator for an hour as I recall and was dry.1576884245_thumbnail_20191025_165950base.jpg.9b03b92a696ace34287306928bd629b5.jpg286911191_thumbnail_20191026_144602top.jpg.94a8a2b138e2e4fea4a42c418dfcfc02.jpg461419441_thumbnail_20191026_144615topcoat.jpg.cd2dfb103664e833748694703945432f.jpg

Edited by Dave G.
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