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Miller 122 Rear Dr Junior Eight Special


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The collar is only partially removed with a cut-off blade when the spat comes off the lathe - so i then have to remove the stub of the collar - because of the inside radius - thats done with a variety of cutters and grinding bits …

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So ive made two spats with the correct outside radius - and ive got two more that were cast fr my original clunker - using files and sanding sticks ive made a better radius on the castings - so i’ll probably use these - the spats are very time consuming - made the second one while listening to the Lakers hammer the Grizzlys - and ive planned to paint the spats aluminum - so think i can combine the parts - two back and two front … 

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The tires are cast by Harold in a perfect shade of rubber black - he uses these on his Miller fr dr kits - the simple tread pattern is accurate - i just chucked the tires onto the lathe and cleaned up the grooves with a razor saw - the lathe is run at a very low speed and you can hold the saw blade in the groove by hand …

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If spats inside and outside, perhaps the spoke wheel is not necessary.

I would have turn a massive one piece aluminium wheel (including the spats) and let it natural after polishing on the lathe.

Don't know if my english is good enough to be understood ...

 

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You are correct PHX - Harold casts these wheels and tires for his fr dr Miller 91 kit - im using the wire wheels because the sister car  - the Boyle Special - which is part of the Rev’s colllection in Naples - has no spats - and im building that also - but i need to find the time to make true 24th scale wheels and tires - these are 25th sc - and that would definitely be the plan …

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Just to add some drama - ive made two wh spats with the correct radius  using my remaining 3/4 inch aluminum stock- and this is all ive got left - i can turn one more - but probably not two - i do have some more on the way - ill make # 3 and then sit by the mailbox … 

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