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1/24 Meng 1966 GT40 MK2 Ken Miles Le Mans Build


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Having read through this topic, I see there are some things that are poorly shaped or designed. Such as the low profile tires that should NOT be, the huge hub holes in the wheels. Yes, Halibrand knockoffs go in the centers of the wheels, butt these wheels appear to be designed for 1/18 scale Halibrand knockoffs. The engine has some strange aspects to it. Especially the front, timing cover, pulleys, water pump, front inner fender panels?????? What Chevelle were the designers looking at? The carb looks like it got left in the carb dip a few years too long. etc.... In many ways, the IMC Ford GT's of the 1960s that get so heavily dissed as tough to build come far closer to representing what's under the skin of a Ford GT. But I do believe I just put this car on my shopping list.

Things like the 427 side oiler engine can be replaced with one from a Revell 427 Cobra.

 

 

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A small update ….. Was able to get a little bench time in this evening which I was able to mask off the top of the engine cover to shoot some aluminum paint on the heat shield but I still will need to shoot some paint on the bottom of the heat shield as well. 
That’s all for now folks.

AAEED17D-BB61-41C3-8838-620D399CA925.jpeg

Edited by Metalmad
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Got a little bench time in today and I started filling in the grooves in the brake rotors which does not look realistic to me  at all which I will detail later after they have been painted and for some reason the grooves molded in them just really bothered me. I also started detail painting the front and rear coils which will take sometime to finish and I also started experimenting with the Vallejo acrylic sky blue paint and the Upol clear to see if there would be any reactions between the two but so far no reaction between the clear and the acrylic paint. 

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Edited by Metalmad
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2 hours ago, Metalmad said:

Got a little bench time in today and I started filling in the lines in the brake rotors which I have no clue why the brake rotors have the grooves molded in them but it just bothered me. I also started detail painting the front and rear coils which will take sometime to finish and I also started experimenting with the Vallejo acrylic sky blue paint and the Uplo clear to if there would be any reactions between them and do far everything looks good.

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Is that the color blue you are going to paint it?  The original Ford color was Arcadian blue which from pictures I’ve seen is lighter.

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Edited by vamach1
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Small update this evening which I was able to finish up the detail painting on the front coils and the rear coils plus the two small arms that are for the rear sway bar assembly which was all done by hand. Plus I also sprayed a coat of primer on the front and rear brake rotor assemblies as well. 
That’s all for now !

CC32E303-6E81-4E82-8DA7-0BD186494029.jpeg

Edited by Metalmad
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  • 2 weeks later...

Was finally able to get a coat of white primer down this weekend and after the primer was nice and dry I shot the blue on her. Next will be getting the decals on her and then lay some clear down to finish up the body.

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Edited by Metalmad
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On 2/3/2022 at 1:24 AM, DustyMojave said:

Having read through this topic, I see there are some things that are poorly shaped or designed. Such as the low profile tires that should NOT be, the huge hub holes in the wheels. Yes, Halibrand knockoffs go in the centers of the wheels, butt these wheels appear to be designed for 1/18 scale Halibrand knockoffs. The engine has some strange aspects to it. Especially the front, timing cover, pulleys, water pump, front inner fender panels?????? What Chevelle were the designers looking at? The carb looks like it got left in the carb dip a few years too long. etc.... In many ways, the IMC Ford GT's of the 1960s that get so heavily dissed as tough to build come far closer to representing what's under the skin of a Ford GT. But I do believe I just put this car on my shopping list.

Things like the 427 side oiler engine can be replaced with one from a Revell 427 Cobra.

 

 

I just got this kit last week and I agree with you, it's not that correct and quite crude in places but with some kitbashing and time it can be a nice model.
The designers had probably not seen a 427 i real life because as I said, it's not a good representation of one, but the dry sump oil pan looks pretty good and that's a first.

On 1/20/2022 at 6:11 AM, Metalmad said:

Was able to get in some bench time in these last couple of evenings which all I basically got done was some painting and detail painting on the engine parts and trans and transaxle.One thing that will be a big challenge will be getting the chrome detail painted in the seats.

177924EB-BCFB-4933-8DA9-9E010FC4C443.jpeg

 

I see you have drilled the holes for the spark plugs, they are not at the locations you have drilled on a real FE engine.
They should be one spark plug behind the first exhaust port angeled reawards, one behind the second exhaust port also angeled reawards, the third in front of the third exhaust port angeled forward and the last in front of the fourth exhaust port also angeled forward, so it will be port-plug-port-plug-plug-port-plug port, and nothing in front of the first exhaust port and nothing behind the last.

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On 2/3/2022 at 1:24 AM, DustyMojave said:

Having read through this topic, I see there are some things that are poorly shaped or designed. Such as the low profile tires that should NOT be, the huge hub holes in the wheels. Yes, Halibrand knockoffs go in the centers of the wheels, butt these wheels appear to be designed for 1/18 scale Halibrand knockoffs. The engine has some strange aspects to it. Especially the front, timing cover, pulleys, water pump, front inner fender panels?????? What Chevelle were the designers looking at? The carb looks like it got left in the carb dip a few years too long. etc.... In many ways, the IMC Ford GT's of the 1960s that get so heavily dissed as tough to build come far closer to representing what's under the skin of a Ford GT. But I do believe I just put this car on my shopping list.

Things like the 427 side oiler engine can be replaced with one from a Revell 427 Cobra.

 

 

I just got this kit last week and I agree with you, it's not that correct and quite crude in places but with some kitbashing and time it can be a nice model.
The designers had probably not seen a 427 i real life because as I said, it's not a good representation of one, the oil filter is missing and some parts are not exactly good, but the dry sump oil pan and front pump looks pretty good and that's a first.

On 1/20/2022 at 6:11 AM, Metalmad said:

Was able to get in some bench time in these last couple of evenings which all I basically got done was some painting and detail painting on the engine parts and trans and transaxle.One thing that will be a big challenge will be getting the chrome detail painted in the seats.

177924EB-BCFB-4933-8DA9-9E010FC4C443.jpeg

 

I see you have drilled the holes for the spark plugs, they are not at the locations you have drilled on a real FE engine.
They should be like this, one spark plug behind the first exhaust port angeled rearwards, one behind the second exhaust port also angeled rearwards, the third in front of the third exhaust port angeled forward and the last in front of the fourth exhaust port also angeled forward, so it will be port-plug-port-plug-plug-port-plug port, and nothing in front of the first exhaust port and nothing behind the last.

mvc-004s 427 Side Oiler.jpg

Edited by Force
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Hakan thank you for the info on the location of the spark plugs but unfortunately it’s to late to relocate the holes plus I’m not building this kit to be a exact replica.  I was able to get the decals applied this week which went fairly well except for the number decal that is located on the rear hatch which it is two separate decals and I was not able to get the little v shaped decal to apply on the air scoop correctly for me so it was not used.Next I will hopefully get get her cleared this weekend.

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I might be a bit picky as I own a 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500XL with a 390 FE and have just built a new 445 stroker engine for it and started it up for the first time last sunday.
Of course, it's your model and you do as you please with it.

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  • 2 months later...

Small update which now I will be repainting the body because of a small mishap with the decals separating off the lower body while removing the masking tape from the upper bottom half that separated the two different colors of the bottom dark blue and the body color light blue and I think the cause of it was the decals not adhering to the acrylic paint. So I have some lacquer paint on its way from MCW for the repaint and another set of decals coming from indycals.

Edited by Metalmad
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Light Blue paint from MCW has arrived today and I also ordered Fathom Green Metallic and Orange Flame Metallic for two other builds. I must say though that the MCW paint arrived quickly so kudos to MCW ! So hopefully I can get the body prepped and in primer this weekend and painted.IMG_2016.thumb.jpeg.9de6e4a18282ea7e55dc2258d8ddbb96.jpeg

Edited by Metalmad
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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I have received the decals from indycals and I have the paint stripped from the body which then I proceeded to shoot the body in primer. So my next step is to get her painted in the light blue from MCW. 

Edited by Metalmad
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I finally was able to shoot the light blue lacquer paint this evening which it was a bit warm out yet this evening but it came out looking pretty good so after the paint flashes out I will wet sand her to smooth the paint out a bit then add the decals and then hopefully shoot some clear on her. Will try and get pics up soon.

Edited by Metalmad
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Started laying down the indycals decals and noticed the on the one that I had applied to the hood you can still see he body color underneath in one area of the white as you can see in the pic. I have emailed indycals about this issue and I also have ordered another set of decals from indycals which upon I will then just lay down another decal on top of the one that has been already applied.IMG_2281.thumb.jpeg.b93401e8a97576bdc47e23a0044d0439.jpeg

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After emailing Michael at indycals and informing him about the issue I had with the one decal which I also sent him a picture of the decal issue. He responded quickly and he will be sending me out a replacement decal at no charge. What a standup guy !  I really appreciate his customer service.

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Received the replacement indycals decal Friday and was able to apply the decal over the existing decal that had the body color bleed through.So after letting the decal set up and dry for 24 hours I proceeded to shoot the clear on the body and cure then I will need to mask off the bottom pan and shoot the dark blue on the belly after the clear is completely cured and also mask off the body around the light enclosures to shoot some black.IMG_2297.thumb.jpeg.9adee542486c53de076c7fee51924a9e.jpegIMG_2295.thumb.jpeg.b19a217bfa52a180041c43e393dba6ca.jpeg

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Edited by Metalmad
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