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A week n purple pond, now what?


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Chrome parts from the Ford C600 and the chrome was gone in a couple hours but after a week the varnish still is hanging on!

Changed the solvent after 3 days and scrubbed the parts before re-soaking.

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You might need to test a few different things. I would probably start with rubbing alcohol, the good high test stuff if you can find it. As long as the coating is smooth I don't always bother removing it.

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1 hour ago, OldTrucker said:

Chrome parts from the Ford C600 and the chrome was gone in a couple hours but after a week the varnish still is hanging on!

Changed the solvent after 3 days and scrubbed the parts before re-soaking.

Yeah if its older kits super clean will not take it off no matter how long.  Even 100% lye doesn't fully take it off lol.  Be careful though cause superclean can stain the varnish, and than you wont have a choice but to scrap it off. Reason i switched too 100% lye.

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My last resort, when nothing else works, is a soak in brake fluid. Tough stuff may take a few days, but it usually comes off.

I've not tried the alcohol that Brian mentioned, but it would much cleaner than brake fluid, and has a good record for removing lacquer, which is what the undercoat usually is.  If using alcohol, use 91% or higher.

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What is the temperature of the liquid?  If it is very cold, the potency is reduced. All the strippers work better when they are warm. I don't mean hot - just 80-100 deg. F.

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I'm having the same issue with these AMT Mustang wheel covers.  The varnish coat is still covering nice detail.

DSCN7935

Edited by afx
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I’ve been using Windex for stripping chrome, usually after a couple of hours the chrome is gone and the varnish, while still on can be scrubbed off with a toothbrush ( I buy the hard bristle type for this) 

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1 hour ago, afx said:

I'm having the same issue with these AMT Mustang wheel covers.  The varnish coat is still covering nice detail.

DSCN7935

What is happening is the stripper is dissolving the laquer but it is settling in the recesses. Try putting them in the stripper upside down and the laquer should (mostly)run off the wheel covers. This trick has worked for me. Hope this helps.

Edited by oldscool
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I have had success using a new blade with a good point. The thick stuff has pretty much popped out/off and where possible flat blade scraping seems to be getting the rest.

But what a pain it is!LOL

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Well i got some good results today.  After letting some parts sit in 100% lye for like a week it took off 90% of the varnish which isn't too bad. I'm sure if i would of replaced the water and new lye it would of fully took off the varnish.  I than took some parts today that was recently dechromed but still had the varnish on the part and put them into 91% ISP and check them out after about 20 mins.  Too my surprise it took the varnish right off even making the part extra clean lol.  Crazy how ISP works better than 100% lye far as the varnish goes.  So now this is gonna be my process as follows.  

1.Distilled water +100% lye in ultrasonic cleaner @ 40c temp (takes about 5-10 mins)) depending on kit.

2.  Wash parts with dawn dish soap

3. If any varnish is still left put parts into 91% ISP let sit for as long as it needs. If varnish is gone than i move to step 4

4. Clean up parts imperfections etc 

5.Wash parts again with dawn dish soap

Squeaky clean parts ready for gloss black base and chrome.

Edited by Dpate
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5 minutes ago, Deathgoblin said:

Yellow-label "Easy-Off" oven cleaner.  Haven't had it hurt the plastic at all, and strips chrome and the underlying coating pretty well.  I recommend wearing a mask when spraying.  

And rubber gloves - Lye will "eat" skin.

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