The Official 3D Printing Discussion Thread

[Mattilacken]

My lights came in 🙂

[camaro69]

Hey everybody,

i was wondering how and with which software you cut the bodies into two halfes. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Rico

[MrObsessive]

3 hours ago, camaro69 said:

Hey everybody,

i was wondering how and with which software you cut the bodies into two halfes. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Rico

If you have Windows 10, you can try this program. I have 11 so I had to download it as Microsoft dropped it for whatever reason. I've used this to cut bodies in half before I got the larger printer.
 

 

[MeatMan]

4 hours ago, camaro69 said:

Hey everybody,

i was wondering how and with which software you cut the bodies into two halfes. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Rico

I use Meshmixer. Its free too but has a bit steeper learning curve, but not by much. You can also fix meshes with it.

It was originally designed for FDM printing but I use it for for my resin printer jobs as well.

https://meshmixer.com/download.html

[camaro69]

Thank you guys for the suggestions. Found out that I can use Autodesk Fusion too.

[Timonator]

So, I  just got my first printer,  anycubic mono x 6k. I downloaded the twin turbo lsx engine from cults. After a few failures I got all of the parts to print out halfway decent. What can I do to eliminate layer lines ?

 

[CabDriver]

1 hour ago, Timonator said:

So, I  just got my first printer,  anycubic mono x 6k. I downloaded the twin turbo lsx engine from cults. After a few failures I got all of the parts to print out halfway decent. What can I do to eliminate layer lines ?

 

Depends which slicer you’re using as to the exact process, but reducing the layer height (from say, 0.05mm to 0.03, or even 0.01) in the print settings will help a lot with that.

Of course, if you’re printing at five times the ‘resolution’ the printer has to actually print five times the number of layers, so your prints will take a lot longer.  

For larger objects that are easily sanded smooth, I’ve been printing with less resolution and just manually finishing the parts - say, if it’s something large that doesn’t necessarily have a bunch of detail like a body or what have you.  If I’m printing, say, a carb or something tiny like that I’ll just let it roll on the best quality the printer can manage

[Timonator]

6 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Depends which slicer you’re using as to the exact process, but reducing the layer height (from say, 0.05mm to 0.03, or even 0.01) in the print settings will help a lot with that.

Of course, if you’re printing at five times the ‘resolution’ the printer has to actually print five times the number of layers, so your prints will take a lot longer.  

For larger objects that are easily sanded smooth, I’ve been printing with less resolution and just manually finishing the parts - say, if it’s something large that doesn’t necessarily have a bunch of detail like a body or what have you.  If I’m printing, say, a carb or something tiny like that I’ll just let it roll on the best quality the printer can manage

Ok, thanks for that. I will try it on my next print. I'm using lychee btw.

[Timonator]

So it looks like I'm supposed to change the layer thickness in my resin settings. Is this correct? It's currently at 50.

[stitchdup]

I just got a 3d printed body that was described as resin. It seems much harder material than the majority of 3d resin prints i have. There was some sticky gunge coming out of the inside of the body that is a dark urine colour and a little of it behind the rear wheel arches. Is this normal or something the printer has got wrong? I haven't noticed it on any of my other prints. The resin is a lot darker than most too, being on the blacker scale of grey when my others are pretty light grey. It sure is tough to sharpen the body lines on this stuff

[MrObsessive]

6 hours ago, stitchdup said:

I just got a 3d printed body that was described as resin. It seems much harder material than the majority of 3d resin prints i have. There was some sticky gunge coming out of the inside of the body that is a dark urine colour and a little of it behind the rear wheel arches. Is this normal or something the printer has got wrong? I haven't noticed it on any of my other prints. The resin is a lot darker than most too, being on the blacker scale of grey when my others are pretty light grey. It sure is tough to sharpen the body lines on this stuff

That sounds like uncured resin coming out. If that's the case, that will be nothing but trouble from this point forward. If the body is overly thick, when it was printed the resin wasn't curing fast enough before the next layer was put over it. That's what can lead to uncured resin, especially among thicker printings. You can try to wash the body with some 91% alcohol to clean it up a bit. If it's still oozing, you may want to run a UV light over it, but frankly........I'd be contacting the vendor to let them know what's up. They may not know there's an issue.

BTW, the resin I use in my printer (Phrozen Aqua Gray 4K), I have no trouble sanding or sharpening up panel lines if needed. I don't know what they're using, but it sounds like really troublesome stuff.

[MrObsessive]

8 hours ago, Timonator said:

So it looks like I'm supposed to change the layer thickness in my resin settings. Is this correct? It's currently at 50.

I would set it to 30 (.030). That'll give you a better surface, although the model will take longer to print. Good models should take time to get the finer details correct........I see many models turning up on eBay that have HORRENDOUS layer lines on 'em. Those can be a nightmare to get rid of especially if they're crossing over sensitive areas such as trim or scripts. They're cheap, but as the saying goes "You get what you pay for".

[MrObsessive]

On 9/8/2022 at 5:03 AM, Timonator said:

Ok, thanks for that. I will try it on my next print. I'm using lychee btw.

This is a body I just printed the other day at .030mm layer height. Frankly, overly obtrusive layer lines are a real turnoff for me. I'd sooner take the extra time needed to get the body right than try to be super fast and make a quick buck like I see some vendors (on eBay for example) do. That's just me though...........

[Timonator]

Looks great ! Yes, I would rather take the time to have a better result. Thanks for the help.

How is that 69 Impala coming along ?

[MrObsessive]

1 hour ago, Timonator said:

Looks great ! Yes, I would rather take the time to have a better result. Thanks for the help.

How is that 69 Impala coming along ?

It's going to be quite a long time before I build that one. I needed to see if I could convert any of his files to be printed, and it came out very well.

[KMcc]

Bill, very nice print of that mustang. Looking at the way you have the body oriented on the build plate, I would think that resin would have pooled in the trunk as the last layers were printed. Or maybe I'm misinterpreting what I see in your photos. I admire your modeling skills very much by the way. Thanks.

[MrObsessive]

9 hours ago, KMcc said:

Bill, very nice print of that mustang. Looking at the way you have the body oriented on the build plate, I would think that resin would have pooled in the trunk as the last layers were printed. Or maybe I'm misinterpreting what I see in your photos. I admire your modeling skills very much by the way. Thanks.

That shouldn't really affect that as those layers are getting cured just before the build plate rises. I had an issue with the coupe version I did of this car when I had it tilted the other way------it kept putting some sort of "crease" or "fold" on the passenger side rear quarter. Sort of print shift, and it just wasn't this file, but other files I noticed that.

Doing it this way seems to have blunted that, and from the coupe file I just created a California Special which is running now, and I have it tilted the same way as the convertible. I'll post pics later on after it's all done.

Thanks for the nice words!

Edited September 15, 2022 by MrObsessive

[KMcc]

Thanks for the explanation. Got an Anycubic Mono for my birthday and have been checking this thread out periodically to see what everyone is doing. I started teaching myself solid modeling in Freecad, mostly to make small parts and wheels that are otherwise unavailable. You seem to have jumped in to 3d printing with both feet. Hopefully I can get to  printing mode in a couple more weeks. I bought Anycubic Standard Resin+, and I notice that the resin parameters lists a "molding shrinkage" of 4%. Do you scale thing up to account for shrinkage? 

[Timonator]

What can I  try to clean these up a bit ?

[MrObsessive]

8 hours ago, KMcc said:

Thanks for the explanation. Got an Anycubic Mono for my birthday and have been checking this thread out periodically to see what everyone is doing. I started teaching myself solid modeling in Freecad, mostly to make small parts and wheels that are otherwise unavailable. You seem to have jumped in to 3d printing with both feet. Hopefully I can get to  printing mode in a couple more weeks. I bought Anycubic Standard Resin+, and I notice that the resin parameters lists a "molding shrinkage" of 4%. Do you scale thing up to account for shrinkage? 

I don't worry about that. The resin I use for the Phrozens (their brand) mentions nothing about that, and if that's the case, the shrinkage is negligible.

[MrObsessive]

8 hours ago, Timonator said:

What can I  try to clean these up a bit ?

YIKES! Did you buy those or did they cure that way?? I just printed up these wheels recently and I had nothing like that occur. Those look like Shapeways wheels..........I'd try soaking them in 91% IPA to see if that helps.

[Timonator]

I did cure the after soaking in tpa

[Timonator]

2 hours ago, MrObsessive said:

YIKES! Did you buy those or did they cure that way?? I just printed up these wheels recently and I had nothing like that occur. Those look like Shapeways wheels..........I'd try soaking them in 91% IPA to see if that helps.

Those look fantastic!

[stitchdup]

Well I've decided to take the plunge and invest in a 3d printer. Its all down to a link someone shared yesterday for print files and a most of my wish list was on it, and with revell releasing the e-tron kit, interiors and a chassis wont be a problem for the audis, so I'll be calling a second hand kit place to sell a few of my 1/25 scale kits to help fund it but thats not really a big deal. I've been looking at the anycubic photon range as they seem to be the most used on here at least, but I'm not sure what to get. I will have around £600 to spend and I would be printing bodies and parts. Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it?  How are they on fumes? my home is very small so they could be a problem for me due to health issues. My plan is to learn how to print the parts first, then later maybe start to draw up my own or modify existing files.  I'm really looking for something as simple as possible and as near to plug and play as possible to begin with. I figure after spending about that much already on 3d prints i may as well get my own. Any advice greatfully recieved as i dont want to waste my money on something i cant use. I have a spare laptop i can dedicate to the printer if needed

[CabDriver]

19 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

Well I've decided to take the plunge and invest in a 3d printer. Its all down to a link someone shared yesterday for print files and a most of my wish list was on it, and with revell releasing the e-tron kit, interiors and a chassis wont be a problem for the audis, so I'll be calling a second hand kit place to sell a few of my 1/25 scale kits to help fund it but thats not really a big deal. I've been looking at the anycubic photon range as they seem to be the most used on here at least, but I'm not sure what to get. I will have around £600 to spend and I would be printing bodies and parts. Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it?  How are they on fumes? my home is very small so they could be a problem for me due to health issues. My plan is to learn how to print the parts first, then later maybe start to draw up my own or modify existing files.  I'm really looking for something as simple as possible and as near to plug and play as possible to begin with. I figure after spending about that much already on 3d prints i may as well get my own. Any advice greatfully recieved as i dont want to waste my money on something i cant use. I have a spare laptop i can dedicate to the printer if needed

I'd recommend picking up the latest Model Cars Mag for an EXCELLENT primer on 3d printing...but in the meantime...

 

Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it?

Printer, plus a way to wash and UV-cure the parts plus some resin and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning.  Here's the matching wash / cure station:

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Station-Upgraded-Machine-Anycubic/dp/B09L81S4L7

Almost all the 'standard' resins require the alcohol to clean up the parts after printing but before curing - but I've just picked up some water-washable resin that cleans with (guess what...) water.  Water washable resin seems generally to be more expensive, but you don't have to buy the alcohol and keep straining it to keep it clean, so swings and roundabouts.  I wish I'd done this from the start, personally - here's one brand of water washable resin:

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Shrinkage-Photopolymer/dp/B09QKQTXNM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3M94C8UBLSA48&keywords=water+washable+3d+printer+resin&qid=1663698890&s=industrial&sprefix=water+washable%2Cindustrial%2C96&sr=1-4

How are they on fumes?

Not bad - you can definitely smell it a little but its not nearly as bad as most any solvent based paint or primer.  The printer runs with the 'lid' closed and everything enclosed so I've had no concerns about running mine inside, even if the resin does have a faint smell to it. 

 

I'd also download a slicer program like Lychee and make sure you're comfortable loading a file into it and doing all the kinds of things you'd be likely to do for real - resizing parts, mirroring parts, adding supports etc etc - Lychee link here: https://mango3d.io/downloads/

 

Edited September 20, 2022 by CabDriver