The Official 3D Printing Discussion Thread

[stitchdup]

9 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

I'd recommend picking up the latest Model Cars Mag for an EXCELLENT primer on 3d printing...but in the meantime...

 

Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it?

Printer, plus a way to wash and UV-cure the parts plus some resin and 99% isopropyl alcohol for the cleaning.  Here's the matching wash / cure station:

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Station-Upgraded-Machine-Anycubic/dp/B09L81S4L7

Almost all the 'standard' resins require the alcohol to clean up the parts after printing but before curing - but I've just picked up some water-washable resin that cleans with (guess what...) water.  Water washable resin seems generally to be more expensive, but you don't have to buy the alcohol and keep straining it to keep it clean, so swings and roundabouts.  I wish I'd done this from the start, personally - here's one brand of water washable resin:

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Precision-UV-Curing-Shrinkage-Photopolymer/dp/B09QKQTXNM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3M94C8UBLSA48&keywords=water+washable+3d+printer+resin&qid=1663698890&s=industrial&sprefix=water+washable%2Cindustrial%2C96&sr=1-4

How are they on fumes?

Not bad - you can definitely smell it a little but its not nearly as bad as most any solvent based paint or primer.  The printer runs with the 'lid' closed and everything enclosed so I've had no concerns about running mine inside, even if the resin does have a faint smell to it. 

 

I'd also download a slicer program like Lychee and make sure you're comfortable loading a file into it and doing all the kinds of things you'd be likely to do for real - resizing parts, mirroring parts, adding supports etc etc - Lychee link here: https://mango3d.io/downloads/

 

Thanks, my mag should be here in a couple of weeks so i'll be sure to give it a good read through. Any size or model reccomendations?

[CabDriver]

8 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

Thanks, my mag should be here in a couple of weeks so i'll be sure to give it a good read through. Any size or model reccomendations?

Personally, I got the 4k Mono, and have been DELIGHTED with it: https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-4k?variant=41229763608738

BUT - I don't intend on printing a tonne of bodies.  It CAN print a 1/25 body, but a larger bed would be better if you had the funds, like this one:

https://www.anycubic.com/collections/resin-3d-printer/products/photon-mono-x2-sla-3d-printer

As always, everyone else's opinions may differ, but I will definitely stand by my recommendation on the AnyCubic machine I have all day long.  Prints detail so fine I can't even see it without magnification, is forgiving to use, easy to set up and has been reliable for me over the past year's regular use.  Thinking of buying a second one when the price drops some as a backup / second machine

[MrObsessive]

4 hours ago, stitchdup said:

Well I've decided to take the plunge and invest in a 3d printer. Its all down to a link someone shared yesterday for print files and a most of my wish list was on it, and with revell releasing the e-tron kit, interiors and a chassis wont be a problem for the audis, so I'll be calling a second hand kit place to sell a few of my 1/25 scale kits to help fund it but thats not really a big deal. I've been looking at the anycubic photon range as they seem to be the most used on here at least, but I'm not sure what to get. I will have around £600 to spend and I would be printing bodies and parts. Do I only need the actual printer? or are there other bits needed to go with it?  How are they on fumes? my home is very small so they could be a problem for me due to health issues. My plan is to learn how to print the parts first, then later maybe start to draw up my own or modify existing files.  I'm really looking for something as simple as possible and as near to plug and play as possible to begin with. I figure after spending about that much already on 3d prints i may as well get my own. Any advice greatfully recieved as i dont want to waste my money on something i cant use. I have a spare laptop i can dedicate to the printer if needed

You'll want to get gloves such as can be seen here. As far as 3D programs if you want to get into modifying files and such in the future, you'll want to get familiar with Blender, Fusion360, 3DBuilder, NetFabb to name a few. Tons of vids out there to show what functions do what.

Be careful of some files that say "printable". A number of times I've gotten "ready to print" files that turned out to be waaaay too thin in the wall thickness, and unfortunately, because the .stl file had already been altered, it was VERY difficult if not impossible to change it. Especially for car bodies this is critical, and your wall thickness should be at least 1mm MINIMUM. It's the major reason I'd rather start with the native .obj files and do my own format conversions and wall thickness------been burned by a couple "printable" files so far.

I can tell immediately from looking at the wheel wells of a printable file if it's worth the trouble buying it. If it appears thin, it's a no-go in my book.

Hope this helps!

[stitchdup]

Well I've read the article multiple times and nothing is really putting me off and i have just one question Does a bigger printer need a bigger wash station? Since i enjoy building modern vws and the few that are in plastic are already in my stash more than once  i think this will be a good addition to my model room. Just from the few sites I've looked through I've found nearly every car since 1974 except for the skoda 110s. I think if i get the biggest printer i can afford it would be worth my while as i could sell on any extras pretty easily if my prints are any good. I'm not planning it as a business, but since 2 will print as fast as one it seems almost daft not to do it. The drawing stuff myself will take a bit of time for me to learn but i sit on a boat with nothing to do 160+ hours a month so it'll give me something to do instead of watch videos and eat. I did notice while looking around the available cars that pre 60 seems very sparse compared to the modern stuff. I'm getting excited by the prospects this has with everything i read and i hope it compliment my current tools. I just wish my dad was still alive to see this, he loved star trek since he was a child and always wished replicators were real, I guess they are now

Edited September 22, 2022 by stitchdup

[Repstock]

On 2/4/2022 at 7:42 PM, MeatMan said:

Just did these for a member. It was a nice little project.

Designed in Alibre CAD and printed on an Anycubic Photon Zero.

Still learning to use both.

I like to use Blender for file cleanup and repair. It has so many features it kind of intimidates me though.

 

 

I find it easy to make a cross section of say, a wheel cover, and use Revolve Boss to make it whole. I can't seem to do anything with the drawing after this, like adding holes and such. Any thoughts?

[CabDriver]

On 9/22/2022 at 6:43 PM, stitchdup said:

Does a bigger printer need a bigger wash station?

I actually hadn’t considered that you’d need a bigger wash station for a bigger printer - I bet someone makes one!  Of course, if you’re printing a couple of smaller things, it’s no biggie to just wash them separately.  My normal wash cycle is 6 minutes, and another six for curing, so it’s not a BUNCH of extra time to do two rounds if needed…

 

I picked up some extra vats for my Photon today - the original one had a tiny hole that I spotted in the FEP - it hasn’t caused any damage to the machine luckily, but it time for a change.  

Got a couple of these for $40 delivered from Amazon - pleased with the quality and they’ve got a nice sturdy metal frame:

I also wanted to switch over to a water-washable resin, so I picked up some of the pretty green Elgoo to try:

Looks like Halloween!

Did a quickie test print on a low res setting to make sure the new vat was going to work ok, and see how the new resin prints…need to tweak my settings because the first few layers separated - guess they need more time on the first layers to help the parts hold together.  Was pleased with the first attempt with this new stuff tho!

[stitchdup]

17 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I actually hadn’t considered that you’d need a bigger wash station for a bigger printer - I bet someone makes one!  Of course, if you’re printing a couple of smaller things, it’s no biggie to just wash them separately.  My normal wash cycle is 6 minutes, and another six for curing, so it’s not a BUNCH of extra time to do two rounds if needed…

 

I picked up some extra vats for my Photon today - the original one had a tiny hole that I spotted in the FEP - it hasn’t caused any damage to the machine luckily, but it time for a change.  

Got a couple of these for $40 delivered from Amazon - pleased with the quality and they’ve got a nice sturdy metal frame:

I also wanted to switch over to a water-washable resin, so I picked up some of the pretty green Elgoo to try:

Looks like Halloween!

Did a quickie test print on a low res setting to make sure the new vat was going to work ok, and see how the new resin prints…need to tweak my settings because the first few layers separated - guess they need more time on the first layers to help the parts hold together.  Was pleased with the first attempt with this new stuff tho!

looking at those parts brings up another question. is clear resin available and is it any good? the inside of the rim on those wheels makes me think printing lights might be possible

[CabDriver]

5 hours ago, stitchdup said:

looking at those parts brings up another question. is clear resin available and is it any good? the inside of the rim on those wheels makes me think printing lights might be possible

I’m just starting to play with it myself, but taillights printed with red translucent resin would undoubtably work.  The clear stuff looks like it wouldn’t probably be QUITE transparent enough, you’d think - but I saw a guy on YouTube polish some clear printed headlight lenses with a Dremel and a polishing bit and they actually looked pretty good!

I don’t think printing a usable windshield or glass would be feasible, but theres definitely some stuff you could do! 

I’ll try and find the video if I can remember where I saw it…

 

Meanwhile in printing adventures today, I got some decent prints with the clear green stuff - and I LOVE how easy it is to clean them up after printing!

[1930fordpickup]

The green is cool. It would make some interesting rims because of the color. 

[MeatMan]

9 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I’m just starting to play with it myself, but taillights printed with red translucent resin would undoubtably work.  The clear stuff looks like it wouldn’t probably be QUITE transparent enough, you’d think - but I saw a guy on YouTube polish some clear printed headlight lenses with a Dremel and a polishing bit and they actually looked pretty good!

I don’t think printing a usable windshield or glass would be feasible, but theres definitely some stuff you could do! 

I’ll try and find the video if I can remember where I saw it…

Meanwhile in printing adventures today, I got some decent prints with the clear green stuff - and I LOVE how easy it is to clean them up after printing!

I bought the same green resin a few months ago and like it for certain prints. You've got some really nice stuff though that I wouldn't have thought of doing in translucent.

[MeatMan]

On 9/23/2022 at 11:13 PM, Repstock said:

I find it easy to make a cross section of say, a wheel cover, and use Revolve Boss to make it whole. I can't seem to do anything with the drawing after this, like adding holes and such. Any thoughts?

Hey Tom, I've never tried it that way but have seen vids on it. I'll have to try it because I'm trying to replicate some for the Effijy I had printed and can't quite get some details to work.

Below is a pic of some wheels I created for my CBR Karmann-Ghia, the Effigy wheels I created, and a pic of what I was trying to duplicate.

Have you tried creating planes and extruding the feature onto the face like in the last pic of my KG wheel?

Edited September 25, 2022 by MeatMan

[stitchdup]

Is there a better site than cults for files? I'm not saying its slow but i've cut my fingernails twice since it started loading

[MeatMan]

1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

Is there a better site than cults for files? I'm not saying its slow but i've cut my fingernails twice since it started loading

😂

I don't know about better, but I use the following. For the price, I like Cults for the pricing but I have a busload of RAM on my computer so it loads well for the most part:

https://3dprintable.shop/

https://www.cgtrader.com/

https://pinshape.com/

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/categories/cars-vehicles?date=week&features=downloadable&sort_by=-likeCount

There is also Thingaverse and Tinkercad.

[stitchdup]

23 minutes ago, MeatMan said:

😂

I don't know about better, but I use the following. For the price, I like Cults for the pricing but I have a busload of RAM on my computer so it loads well for the most part:

https://3dprintable.shop/

https://www.cgtrader.com/

https://pinshape.com/

https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/categories/cars-vehicles?date=week&features=downloadable&sort_by=-likeCount

There is also Thingaverse and Tinkercad.

i should have put faster, better was the wrong word. I've looked on thingiverse but it seemed very expensive, nothing seemed to be at what i would consider hobbyist prices.

[MeatMan]

12 hours ago, stitchdup said:

i should have put faster, better was the wrong word. I've looked on thingiverse but it seemed very expensive, nothing seemed to be at what i would consider hobbyist prices.

Yeah, that's kinda why I put them on the "also" list. C.G. Trader is expensive as well. I've never bought from them because of that, and Tinkercad is for fairly simplistic files though I have a couple on there that you might want.I think this link will get you there. https://www.tinkercad.com/users/6g2iPFJLWp3

[stitchdup]

I've been looking around cults and i've noticed a few differences in how the models are displayed. i picked these 4 as they seem to be the most common among the ones i've looked at. is there a way to tell which are printable? i saved a guide to scaling which i think will help for resizing but another question is which of these files could i chop parts from and only print those parts in clear resin, for example side mirrors or the lights. i was thinking to print the lights and smaller parts seperately, as well as with the body and do more normal modelling to swap the lights to get a better looking model. anyway these are the styles i'm seeing most and some look better than others. can these even be editted? i dont mind learning new stuff when i know what the end goal is and even enjoy it then

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/cadillac-lasalle-series-50-sedan-1935-v2

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-panel-van-1935

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/volkswagen-corrado-g60-1988-printable-car-body

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/audi-rs5-lb-2014

[MrObsessive]

5 hours ago, stitchdup said:

I've been looking around cults and i've noticed a few differences in how the models are displayed. i picked these 4 as they seem to be the most common among the ones i've looked at. is there a way to tell which are printable? i saved a guide to scaling which i think will help for resizing but another question is which of these files could i chop parts from and only print those parts in clear resin, for example side mirrors or the lights. i was thinking to print the lights and smaller parts seperately, as well as with the body and do more normal modelling to swap the lights to get a better looking model. anyway these are the styles i'm seeing most and some look better than others. can these even be editted? i dont mind learning new stuff when i know what the end goal is and even enjoy it then

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/cadillac-lasalle-series-50-sedan-1935-v2

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/dodge-panel-van-1935

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/volkswagen-corrado-g60-1988-printable-car-body

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/audi-rs5-lb-2014

The first one is printable, but to be honest, it looks like it's meant more for a FDM printer (filament), than a SLA printer which is the vat type.

The second one is a .obj file and could be made printable, but not without a lot of work to get the proper wall thickness.

The third one while printable, I wouldn't trust it as looking at the rockers and wheel wells, is just too thin for me. It'll print, but then you might have a tough time getting it off the supports with the risk of the resin "tearing".

The last one also looks like it's meant for a FDM printer also. The topology on that one is reeeeeaaal rough. You'd have to do an awful lot of editing in Blender to straighten that one out, and if it's too much for Blender to handle, the program can crash without warning. Models that are solid like that can be edited to be hollow, but get set for a great deal of work to get rid of all the faces/vertices on the bottom and inside the body.

There's no way really to tell if a file can be separated without first contacting the designer. It'll all depend on how they formatted the file, and how they designed what parts are to be separated where. The printable files can be tough to thicken up if too thin, as they've already been "altered". Yet again another reason I'd rather do my own files from the very beginning (.obj), than to try and fix another file that's already been thickened up in many cases.

On Cults, usually if the model is displayed in blue, the file is already printable. The file type should be listed on the side------.STL files mean they are printable, but that can be very subjective from file to file.

[Len Woodruff]

Facinating what can be done with the new resin 3D printers.

[MeatMan]

On 9/27/2022 at 6:13 AM, MrObsessive said:

The first one is printable, but to be honest, it looks like it's meant more for a FDM printer (filament), than a SLA printer which is the vat type.

The second one is a .obj file and could be made printable, but not without a lot of work to get the proper wall thickness.

The third one while printable, I wouldn't trust it as looking at the rockers and wheel wells, is just too thin for me. It'll print, but then you might have a tough time getting it off the supports with the risk of the resin "tearing".

The last one also looks like it's meant for a FDM printer also. The topology on that one is reeeeeaaal rough. You'd have to do an awful lot of editing in Blender to straighten that one out, and if it's too much for Blender to handle, the program can crash without warning. Models that are solid like that can be edited to be hollow, but get set for a great deal of work to get rid of all the faces/vertices on the bottom and inside the body.

There's no way really to tell if a file can be separated without first contacting the designer. It'll all depend on how they formatted the file, and how they designed what parts are to be separated where. The printable files can be tough to thicken up if too thin, as they've already been "altered". Yet again another reason I'd rather do my own files from the very beginning (.obj), than to try and fix another file that's already been thickened up in many cases.

On Cults, usually if the model is displayed in blue, the file is already printable. The file type should be listed on the side------.STL files mean they are printable, but that can be very subjective from file to file.

I've been able to separate parts from a couple of drawings in Blender though without checking with the designer. I was able to print my Karmann-Ghia with the hood & trunk separate.

Go into Edit mode, right click on the body, select Separate, Loose Parts.

Some drawings will have a long list of parts that require selecting individually to see what gets highlighted. I recently had to remove the middle of a set of wheels to get only the rim and it showed all the rim bolts, spokes, and parts separately but I was able to remove the spokes and get the part I needed.

Edited September 28, 2022 by MeatMan

[MrObsessive]

2 hours ago, MeatMan said:

I've been able to separate parts from a couple of drawings in Blender though without checking with the designer. I was able to print my Karmann-Ghia with the hood & trunk separate.

Go into Edit mode, right click on the body, select Separate, Loose Parts.

Some drawings will have a long list of parts that require selecting individually to see what gets highlighted. I recently had to remove the middle of a set of wheels to get only the rim and it showed all the rim bolts, spokes, and parts separately but I was able to remove the spokes and get the part I needed.

Oh yeah, I've been doing that for quite a while in Blender. The problem comes in however that not all models are designed that way, as I've got a number of them that no matter what you do, Blender will not separate the parts UNLESS you manually copy the faces in edit mode, duplicate the object, save it, then go back and delete the faces and import the object again under a new part name after it's been separated.

Many times, this isn't known until AFTER you bought the file and have to find out. The designer if available, should be able to tell you what parts are separated where and how.

[Kenmojr]

I found this partially completed model of a hot rod gasser at GrabCad. It is missing some parts like engine, grille, moon tank.

https://grabcad.com/library/hot-rod-model-a-gasser-1/details?folder_id=5620843

Edited September 28, 2022 by Kenmojr
Add screen captures

[Dave Van]

I need a Aztek model for my Breaking Bad series of kit builds.

I found a 3D model of the car.......is there anyone willing tp print one for me???? I'll pay for the file and print of course.

Thanks!

[stitchdup]

Are there any brands of printer to avoid? i've found a guy local that imports and sells printers so will be calling him soon. I'm hoping he sells something that will work for me as buying local will give me a bit of support setting up and getting going

[stitchdup]

is this a good setup? hoping to place an order in the morning

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334556138542?hash=item4de5198c2e:g:FZcAAOSwxhNjGunF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFwPwPstfi5j1JGZx7DZnfXkL81jwP2Hlr7h%2BXqc5Y05RwJTlRfuquM7XLRxmL9mkZRh9yvpwZ%2BzwqviMo2KRCN1sw3R6ZWqhZwMLt0kZbUAMK6uLeCpzwtwLDT2fcOLPRApQWTGgOo%2F2tV%2F7Vw%2FvCPmNJuisBQprVuAJKASd1YUecK2eLfV4DqPGEFb8fVXNQomMD48Pgd6B4d85ROKrhcbFaaNdlN5lxHIXqXPPbB8|tkp%3ABk9SR5aiuKvxYA

Edited September 29, 2022 by stitchdup
forgot link

[CabDriver]

1 hour ago, stitchdup said:

is this a good setup? hoping to place an order in the morning

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334556138542?hash=item4de5198c2e:g:FZcAAOSwxhNjGunF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsFwPwPstfi5j1JGZx7DZnfXkL81jwP2Hlr7h%2BXqc5Y05RwJTlRfuquM7XLRxmL9mkZRh9yvpwZ%2BzwqviMo2KRCN1sw3R6ZWqhZwMLt0kZbUAMK6uLeCpzwtwLDT2fcOLPRApQWTGgOo%2F2tV%2F7Vw%2FvCPmNJuisBQprVuAJKASd1YUecK2eLfV4DqPGEFb8fVXNQomMD48Pgd6B4d85ROKrhcbFaaNdlN5lxHIXqXPPbB8|tkp%3ABk9SR5aiuKvxYA

That's the larger version of the one I have, which I love...same wash/cure tank as I have too - looks like a decent setup to me!