The Official 3D Printing Discussion Thread

[iamsuperdan]

16 hours ago, stitchdup said:

i was told the water wasable resin has an issue with shrinkage. The first 32 body i printed was the water wash and the second was normal resin and it turned out better. On the first one the sides were a bit twisted and i thought it was down to me removing the supports before curing but i did the same on the second body and it didn't happen. I'm still very inexperienced so it might just be me doing something wrong still. Hot water still works to flatten or reshape parts though, I've curved some door panels for the 32 by sitting them on a cloth and pouring kettle water over them for a few seconds and then under the cold tap once shaped. It worked better than it does on styrene for me

 

I'll have to try a little warm/hot water, see if that helps. 

I never remove the parts from the supports until after curing. And a few times I've left everything on the build plate to cure. With the same results.

I haven't heard that about the water washable resin. That's all I've used. Might have to grab a jug of IPA and try the standard resin, see if that makes a difference.

 

[stitchdup]

36 minutes ago, iamsuperdan said:

 

I'll have to try a little warm/hot water, see if that helps. 

I never remove the parts from the supports until after curing. And a few times I've left everything on the build plate to cure. With the same results.

I haven't heard that about the water washable resin. That's all I've used. Might have to grab a jug of IPA and try the standard resin, see if that makes a difference.

 

I was told it by a guy that makes parts for model trains and boats and seems to get great results. I've arranged to call him next week for advice on where i'm going wrong with my prints cos my fails are all over the place. even stuff thats worked before is failing with no settings changes. I've also got in contact with the local wargamming group to see if any of them can help too since they use resin printers too.

[iamsuperdan]

8 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

I was told it by a guy that makes parts for model trains and boats and seems to get great results. I've arranged to call him next week for advice on where i'm going wrong with my prints cos my fails are all over the place. even stuff thats worked before is failing with no settings changes. I've also got in contact with the local wargamming group to see if any of them can help too since they use resin printers too.

 

It's weird. Every now and then I'll get a print fail, but it will be with a file I've printed before with zero issues. And then I go to reprint, and it's totally fine again.

[stitchdup]

27 minutes ago, iamsuperdan said:

 

It's weird. Every now and then I'll get a print fail, but it will be with a file I've printed before with zero issues. And then I go to reprint, and it's totally fine again.

I'm not even that lucky it seems. The wargaming group are very helpful as it turns out, a couple of them are on the same island so I might get them to visit and see if they can see whats wrong. It has to be some setting for the printer and annoyingly its probably just one number causing it. I've sorta offered a bribe to them by saying once i am more consistent that I'm happy to do printing for them if they have the files they want printed so hopefully that works out.

[Lownslow]

4 hours ago, stitchdup said:

I'm not even that lucky it seems. The wargaming group are very helpful as it turns out, a couple of them are on the same island so I might get them to visit and see if they can see whats wrong. It has to be some setting for the printer and annoyingly its probably just one number causing it. I've sorta offered a bribe to them by saying once i am more consistent that I'm happy to do printing for them if they have the files they want printed so hopefully that works out.

Have you talked to MCS? Maybe he has a idea or a different model

 

[stitchdup]

4 minutes ago, Lownslow said:

Have you talked to MCS? Maybe he has a idea or a different model

 

I'll try that but the messaging on cults seems to be all public. Hopefully they have an email listed like some do

[stitchdup]

I ordered the wrong screen protector film for my printer. Anybody need a pack of 5 anycubic 6.23 sheets? I considered putting it in the trade thread but figured I'd put it here first

[bauercrew]

Hey everyone quick question ,,,,,,with the majority of our parts being so small what size supports have you been using,,, so far a lot of my parts seem to be braking somewhere a little after the the raft and maybe about 3/4 of inch into print ,im useing the stock settings for the printer and useing the small supports since parts are small? (phrozen mini 4k) and useing there 8k resin,,,,it prints the sample that came with printer PERFECT so could it be my supports ,,,,still learning the slicer program ,,,,,,,which is chitubox,,,,,and can a part still print if it has islands ,,,, i tryed to locate islands but cant find them when i manuavere the image all around ,,like i say it prints the sample PERFECT so it HAS to be me ?????and islands are indicated by red areas correct??? so supports go on all the red areas???? i also tryed useing Lychee but my computer isnt up to specs cause it locks up like crazy,,,,during rendering ,,,i have 16 gigs of ram a i5 6th generation processor ,running at almost 3gig mhtz But unfortunaly i CANT upgrade video card cause its a small form factor case,,,,,,,BUT chitubox runs great on it,,,,,so any help or suggestions please ,,driving me crazy

[rachel42]

It's possible that the issue is with your support settings in Chitubox. Try increasing the support density and decreasing the size of the supports, especially around the areas where your parts are breaking. Ensure that the supports are being generated in red areas where necessary. If the issue persists, you can also try adjusting the slicing parameters in Chitubox to see if that helps. Another possible issue is with the resin. Try a different brand you can check here https://43dprint.org/filament-for-ender-3/ or type of resin and see if that resolves the problem. Additionally, make sure that your build platform is level and your resin vat is clean to minimize any adhesion issues.

[stitchdup]

Well i purchased an anycubic m3 max a couple of weeks ago and it works great so far. I am still fighting with the mono 4k and have tried the settings that work on the m3 on the mono and still the prints on it are failing. Is there a setting on the printer i might be missing out? I copied the settings that are working on the m3 but still the monno doesn't want to play ball

[thatz4u]

anyone ever used this site???

https://stlprintables.com/product-category/vehicles/

[iamsuperdan]

56 minutes ago, thatz4u said:

anyone ever used this site???

https://stlprintables.com/product-category/vehicles/

Looks to be the same as this one.

 

https://3dprintable.shop/

 

I've used it, and the files are good.

 

[thatz4u]

On 2/8/2023 at 12:22 PM, iamsuperdan said:

Looks to be the same as this one.

 

https://3dprintable.shop/

 

I've used it, and the files are good.

 

they are the same, great selection

[carsntrucks4you]

On 12/23/2022 at 2:52 AM, Lownslow said:

First big print, scanned the chassis and separated the frame and floorboard into two separate parts, floorboard still printing. Only difference really is the narrowed rear arches for deeper dish wheels. 

What kind of scanner are you using?

 

[foxbat426]

Hi, Been away for quite a while. Good to see this discussion. Is anyone printing whole 1/25 scale bodys with resin printers? I know some of the build plates on the newer printers are certainly big enough. Just wondering.

 

Thanks john

[MrObsessive]

1 hour ago, foxbat426 said:

Hi, Been away for quite a while. Good to see this discussion. Is anyone printing whole 1/25 scale bodys with resin printers? I know some of the build plates on the newer printers are certainly big enough. Just wondering.

 

Thanks john

[keyser]

^^^ Printin’ machine ^^^^
🤣🤣🤣🤣🏆👍🏼

[my66s55]

I have Printed many bodies, but I do more than bodies. Check out "my 3d printed projects" in the W. I. P.

[MeatMan]

On 1/25/2023 at 2:04 PM, bauercrew said:

Hey everyone quick question ,,,,,,with the majority of our parts being so small what size supports have you been using,,, so far a lot of my parts seem to be braking somewhere a little after the the raft and maybe about 3/4 of inch into print ,im useing the stock settings for the printer and useing the small supports since parts are small? (phrozen mini 4k) and useing there 8k resin,,,,it prints the sample that came with printer PERFECT so could it be my supports ,,,,still learning the slicer program ,,,,,,,which is chitubox,,,,,and can a part still print if it has islands ,,,, i tryed to locate islands but cant find them when i manuavere the image all around ,,like i say it prints the sample PERFECT so it HAS to be me ?????and islands are indicated by red areas correct??? so supports go on all the red areas???? i also tryed useing Lychee but my computer isnt up to specs cause it locks up like crazy,,,,during rendering ,,,i have 16 gigs of ram a i5 6th generation processor ,running at almost 3gig mhtz But unfortunaly i CANT upgrade video card cause its a small form factor case,,,,,,,BUT chitubox runs great on it,,,,,so any help or suggestions please ,,driving me crazy

I use Lychee with no probs and I have 16 gigs ram and an AMD Ryzen 5 chip on an older laptop, so no graphics card either. I've never used CB so I'm no help there.

Have you looked at any of the YT vids to get an idea of how to use Chitubox?

[carsntrucks4you]

First prototype of round front 35ft trailer

 

[stitchdup]

As you know i was having problems with my photon mono x where it was seeming to miss out the middle of prints or only do a thin layer in the centre. This is as well as prints sticking to the tank. Today i decided to see if i could work out what was wrong. Well a completely nre problem decided to show it head before i could even get a print started. I filled up the tank as normal with a new bottle of resin and sat down to get the file perpared and sliced. When i got back to the printer the resin had solifified!! Luckily the edges were still a little soft so i got it pulled off before it was completely solid. I think it was down to the weather as my printer is near a window and the skies had just cleared after snow so it was very sunny but its something to watch out for. I've also been having solid clear globs appear on the tank when its been cleaned and sitting empty for a while so I might try and replace the film on the bottom of one of the tanks.

So Now I'm about to format my usb as it seems it might be the problem i was originally having. Hopefully it works as nothing else has. On the other hand th m3 max i bought when i was made redundant works great and i've only had one failed print with it which i think was caused by using white resin and not changing the settings.

 

[peteski]

Since it is a UV-cure resin I'm not surprised that sunlight solidified it.  After all Sun can also give your skin pretty nasty skin sunburn (caused by strong UV light).   Resin in the vat has to be protected form any stray UV light.

[parki]

On 6/22/2022 at 11:23 PM, MeatMan said:

For those interested in my free files, I've updated the Rotofaze distributor by adding the caps and capacitors.

Also, I drew up an Enderle barn door injector. Its not an exact replica but I'm happy about the result.

Both files should be available on my Cults site in a week or so as I haven't printed them yet. I always print my creations to catch any printing issues.

What is your Cults 3D name/ Link? Cheers awesome parts.

 

[MeatMan]

On 4/19/2023 at 12:30 PM, parki said:

What is your Cults 3D name/ Link? Cheers awesome parts.

 

Thanks!

https://cults3d.com/en/users/Meatman/creations

[Anglia105E]

I was getting ready to 3D print a 1:43 scale American Airstream trailer tonight, which had an estimated print run time of 16 hours.

I noticed the PLA filament was broken in three places along its length, and the PLA was very brittle. Anyway, I switched the printer on and selected Preheat PLA, which would raise the nozzle jet temperature to 190°C so that I could push the short length of PLA filament through the nozzle, ready to accept the new filament from the reel.

Suddenly the printer went off by itself, no blue screen and no fan noise. I fiddled around with the mains power lead, and eventually succeeded in powering up the printer. However, I then noticed a burning smell, so I got ready to take action.

There was a lot of smoke from the printer's power supply, then a bright flash of flame and a very loud bang, so I pulled the power lead out quickly . . . Terminal failure . . . No more 3D printing in my loft  !

The printer is two and a half years old, and cost me £79 on Ebay, which was by far the cheapest Chinese clone of a Prusa printer on the market. I originally assembled this printer from a large box of parts, got it working, used it and modified it also . . . so all good experience.

Looks like I shall be ordering 3D printed parts from Shapeways in the Netherlands as and when I need them from now on.

The most recent successful 3D printed model from this printer was the O gauge steam loco, which involved printing many parts, and it turned out nicely.

 

David