69NovaYenko Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Has anyone attempted to airbrushed Molotow Liquid Chrome. If so, was any thinning involved..I suspect not since it pretty thin already. Also, how did it lay down. Is an undercoat required like Alclad. Does anyone have tips on airbrushing it. Can it be clear coated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidChampagne Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 I have airbrushed it several times. Very easy to use. No thinning required. No base coat required but you may wish to experiment on that. However, the smoother and cleaner the better. I have used it after a good sanding and it was fine. Just be sure your sand lines are gone and it is free of dust. The two most important things I have learned are: 1. When you say to yourself "Just one more coat or a little more" stop. Don't do it. You just need to practice. 2. It picks up fingerprints like crazy. I have let it sit for days on end and still left a fingerprint installing the part. Your need to come up with ways to install painted parts with minimal touching (tweezers, toothpicks, etc). Clear coat? Don't know. Never tried. It really is easy to use. But practice makes perfect as they say. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Haigwood Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) 25 minutes ago, DavidChampagne said: I have airbrushed it several times. Very easy to use. No thinning required. No base coat required but you may wish to experiment on that. However, the smoother and cleaner the better. I have used it after a good sanding and it was fine. Just be sure your sand lines are gone and it is free of dust. The two most important things I have learned are: 1. When you say to yourself "Just one more coat or a little more" stop. Don't do it. You just need to practice. 2. It picks up fingerprints like crazy. I have let it sit for days on end and still left a fingerprint installing the part. Your need to come up with ways to install painted parts with minimal touching (tweezers, toothpicks, etc). Clear coat? Don't know. Never tried. It really is easy to use. But practice makes perfect as they say. Good luck Ditto: I normally wait weeks for it to fully dry and try not to ever touch. I have yet to find a clear that will not dull it, but I am still looking. Just airbrushed these . now to play the waiting game Edited March 9, 2022 by Jon Haigwood 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 (edited) Well you don't really need a undercoat with alclad besides there gloss black base or any good gloss black base except tamiya's acrylic X1. Unless you've done sanding than sure a good primer sanding down smooth before gloss black base. I've never airbrushed molotov but people that have had good results with it. I own several brands of chrome and just like many metallic metals similar too chrome they all act the same - meaning you must have a smooth gloss black surface and you must mist the paint on light mists coats (12-18PSI). You don't spray chrome etc like you do color coats. If you're spraying it right you'll start to see dust build up on the part, and does make it little hard to know when too stop. It just takes some practice and getting a good chrome shiny finish isn't that hard. You basically need good lighting and soon as you get that mirror look where you can see yourself - than maybe one more mist coat. You're really not putting down a lot of paint at all. I always use a dehydrator and cotton gloves when handling chrome parts. Honestly one of my favorite things to do in the hobby lol is using chrome. Dunno about clear coating though never tried to do that usually the chrome itself is pretty durable especially spaztix. Edited March 9, 2022 by Dpate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMT68 Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 When spraying Molotow or Alclad will it produce a mirror like shine? I have bumpers from a few vintage kits where the chrome is rather dull and worn and they could use a refinishing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Just now, AMT68 said: When spraying Molotow or Alclad will it produce a mirror like shine? I have bumpers from a few vintage kits where the chrome is rather dull and worn and they could use a refinishing. Alclad you would need a gloss black base and Molotow you wouldn't really need one, but both will produce a mirror like shine if done right. If you didn't want to clean the parts by stripping the chrome etc and rechroming than molotow would be your best bet if you're just wanting to recoat. Molotow can go on anything and give you a chrome finish. I think it's more a ink than anything. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMT68 Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 1 hour ago, Dpate said: Alclad you would need a gloss black base and Molotow you wouldn't really need one, but both will produce a mirror like shine if done right. If you didn't want to clean the parts by stripping the chrome etc and rechroming than molotow would be your best bet if you're just wanting to recoat. Molotow can go on anything and give you a chrome finish. I think it's more a ink than anything. Well thanks for the info. I imagine it will require practice like everything else with this hobby. A couple of the bumpers are from older Johan and Monogram kits and realistically it probably won't take much effort to strip them of the existing chrome. While I would definitely try Molotow I'd also like to try Alclad since it sounds more durable to handling from what I'm reading. Of course I"ll have to invest in an airbrush setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaymcminn Posted March 9, 2022 Share Posted March 9, 2022 Molotow airbrushes beautifully without thinning. I go about 15psi with my Iwata Revolution. If you leave it alone for a few weeks it'll be more durable, but it doesn't really like a lot of handling. It's much easier to get a good result than with Alclad. I've also used Molotow under a grey wash to represent engine bay aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 10, 2022 Share Posted March 10, 2022 Just now, AMT68 said: Well thanks for the info. I imagine it will require practice like everything else with this hobby. A couple of the bumpers are from older Johan and Monogram kits and realistically it probably won't take much effort to strip them of the existing chrome. While I would definitely try Molotow I'd also like to try Alclad since it sounds more durable to handling from what I'm reading. Of course I"ll have to invest in an airbrush setup. Only issue with older kits when it comes to stripping the chrome is the underlayer can be annoying. The chrome is easy to come off using 100% lye which is what i use cause it's cheaper. Use to use super clean which works but can stain the varnish under the chrome sometimes. Sometimes 100% lye wont even take the varnish off unless it's in a ultrasonic cleaner with heat, but still takes a long time. So the solution i came up with was letting the parts that aren't free of varnish sit in 91% alcohol and it works a charm. Alclad is more durable and cheaper than molotow, BUT it is still fragile. I think Spaz stix is way more durable than alclad, and green stuff world along with others. Spaz stix you can find at hobbytown near the RC cars. $13 for a bottle that would last you a year or more depending on how much chroming you do lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 1017 Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 (edited) Molotov is fragile so I decided to put the parts into my dehydrator. If it can dry out Testors Enamel it just might work on Molotov. It works Mike Edited March 12, 2022 by Mike 1017 wrong word 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMT68 Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 On 3/9/2022 at 10:55 PM, Dpate said: So the solution i came up with was letting the parts that aren't free of varnish sit in 91% alcohol and it works a charm Good to know. I wasn't even thinking of the varnish layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 (edited) 10 minutes ago, AMT68 said: Good to know. I wasn't even thinking of the varnish layer. Yeah the alcohol basically dries up the varnish and makes it fall off. Whatever doesn't fall over is easily just pulled off with tweezers. I usually put parts in a mason jar capped so i can give them a good swoosh around here and there. I' am thinking about actually using my ultrasonic cleaner that i use for dechroming and after the dechroming clean it out and use it for alcohol bath. Edited March 12, 2022 by Dpate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 On 3/9/2022 at 10:55 PM, Dpate said: Alclad is more durable and cheaper than molotow, BUT it is still fragile. I think Spaz stix is way more durable than alclad, and green stuff world along with others. Spaz stix you can find at hobbytown near the RC cars. $13 for a bottle that would last you a year or more depending on how much chroming you do lol. Alsa Corp's Easy Chrome is expensive; however, it is the most durable chrome finish available. It's used to fix automotive chrome, including rims. Easy Chrome is applied over a clear base coat. It doesn't rub off or dull from handling, fingerprints can be wiped off without damaging the finish and it doesn't require a top coat when used on model parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 18 hours ago, SfanGoch said: Alsa Corp's Easy Chrome is expensive; however, it is the most durable chrome finish available. It's used to fix automotive chrome, including rims. Easy Chrome is applied over a clear base coat. It doesn't rub off or dull from handling, fingerprints can be wiped off without damaging the finish and it doesn't require a top coat when used on model parts. Don't really need a clear base coat. Works over gloss black base. I have seen this before unsure about it considering the results i get with everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 I know. It also works on gray and white gloss bases. Additionally, I've experimented applying it over various gloss bases for different effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dpate Posted March 12, 2022 Share Posted March 12, 2022 10 minutes ago, SfanGoch said: I know. It also works on gray and white gloss bases. Additionally, I've experimented applying it over various gloss bases for different effects. Do you like it better than other chromes on the market? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TransAmMike Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 On 3/9/2022 at 9:48 AM, 69NovaYenko said: Has anyone attempted to airbrushed Molotow Liquid Chrome. If so, was any thinning involved..I suspect not since it pretty thin already. Also, how did it lay down. Is an undercoat required like Alclad. Does anyone have tips on airbrushing it. Can it be clear coated. Thanks I airbrush unthinned Molotow to aftermarket resin and plastic wheels with very nice results. As many have said, touching it even after drying a week can dull it so thats a no-no. I'm pretty sure there was a fairly recent thread about sealing it. I'm too lazy to look it up but just do a search on here. I haven't tried any sealers but sure would like it if there is one that will work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SfanGoch Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 2 hours ago, Dpate said: Do you like it better than other chromes on the market? It's the only true chrome paint available. I've used Alclad, Model Master Metalizers, etc. and hands down, IMO, it's the best product for cheating a realistic chrome finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bisc63 Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 On 3/11/2022 at 6:09 PM, Mike 1017 said: it can dry out Testors Enamel Even Testors SILVER enamel?! I thought that took decades to dry...😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hedotwo Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 I've found that if you minimize handling by pre-fitting those pieces that need it, will really help maintain the Molotow shine. That and being sure to wash your hands really well to eliminate alot of the oils before handling pieces. I found some tight fitting thin cotton gloves that I'll use also. Like most of us I dry the pieces as much as I have patience to. The dehydrator definitely shortens the time. Once the build is finished and in my display case I no longer worry about handling, although other folks find that an issue down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 1017 Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 On 3/12/2022 at 10:55 PM, bisc63 said: Even Testors SILVER enamel?! I thought that took decades to dry...😁 No. But I have a can of Chrome that I try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 1017 Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Just now, Mike 1017 said: No. But I have a can of Chrome that I can try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuces wild Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 I also have a couple of cans of chrome paint laying around... Rustolium and Duplicolor... I haven't tried those yet.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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