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AK Super chrome!


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28 minutes ago, peteski said:

Very useful info - thanks Dusty!

I did not know what you meant about Alclad "dusting up", but now I understand.  If misted almost dry, it will create a "dusty surface.  If you apply it too wet, it will dry looking dull. I guess I figured out the right technique to airbrush Alclad II chrome heavy enough not to "dust up", and still result in the "chrome like" shine.

Yeah the dusting doesn't bother me.  It's actually pretty awesome wiping the dust off and seeing the chrome pop lol.  Barbatos rex on youtube put up a review of the AK chrome. 

 

EDIT: After watching his video i actually got better results with the stuff than he did lol

Edited by Dpate
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1 minute ago, Fat Brian said:

Based on working with it how do you think it would react to a clear coat?

That i couldn't answer 100%, but as with almost all chromes a clear coat usually dulls it a tad bit.  By it being similar to molotow i could see it being dulled a little using a clear coat.  

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Did anyone actually expect results different than with Molotow? It's an ink, essentially the same product as Molotow. Any type of clear gloss coat will reduce or eliminate the reflective finish. Alsa Easy Chrome is a superior product because it is a paint. It's extremely durable, doesn't dull or rub off from handling and retains its mirror-like finish when a clear urethane gloss coat is applied. 

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Just watched this Barbatos Rex review. In this review he clears, and it turns more aluminum looking, but it does good with Tamiya color clears to look like Candy, and he also shows it pulls off easy. One thing not mentioned above, or in this video, is durability over time. From what I have seen so far, there are other more viable options. This review was just posted just hours ago today. 

 

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12 hours ago, SfanGoch said:

Did anyone actually expect results different than with Molotow? It's an ink, essentially the same product as Molotow. Any type of clear gloss coat will reduce or eliminate the reflective finish. Alsa Easy Chrome is a superior product because it is a paint. It's extremely durable, doesn't dull or rub off from handling and retains its mirror-like finish when a clear urethane gloss coat is applied. 

Not everyone is gonna pay $189 for a hobby kit of 4 ozs worth of paint.   I'm gonna do more testing with the AK stuff, but it wont replace alclad or spaz or greenstuffworld for me.

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You get what you pay for. You pay thirty bucks for ink. I pay for permanent, durable automotive quality chrome paint. FYI, Alsa sells a 6 oz. can for $169. No clear coat required. :D

Edited by SfanGoch
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43 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

You get what you pay for. You pay thirty bucks for ink. I pay for permanent, durable automotive quality chrome paint. FYI, Alsa sells a 6 oz. can for $169. No clear coat required. :D

I purchased the AK out of curiosity to try and test.  It was like buying a AMT kit ya don't know if it's gonna be good or bad.  But have you ever used spaz stix chrome? That stuff looks fantastic and is the most durable chrome product i own and doesn't need a sealer like others.  You would have to really go out of your way to take it off like i did with the AK stuff(only heat dried for 3 hours). Where i get my spaz stix chrome i could get 6oz of it for around $45-$50.  If when i ever run out of alclad chrome etc i would continue to buy spaz stix.  I may one day get Alsa cause i would love to give it a try though, but it's quite a bit of money just to "try" something out.   I'm not doubting you at all about the product though as I'm sure it's a beautiful chrome.

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26 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

You get what you pay for. You pay thirty bucks for ink...

...that doesn't give that great a "chrome" finish anyway, turns into streaked silver-paint-looking stuff if you try to polish it, fingerprints, takes a long time to dry, and can't be cleared.

Hmmmm. Or you can buy enough pro-grade stuff (that actually works very well) to do a whole lot of "chroming" for $170.

6 oz, by the way, is twelve times what comes in a ModelMaster glass bottle. That's a LOT of chrome if you use it right.

My advice, kiddies: save your lunch money and get the good stuff.  

Unbiased Alsa test by a guy who get's it right after several tries...

 

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3 minutes ago, Dpate said:

Where i get my spaz stix chrome i could get 6oz of it for around $45-$50. 

If you use the spray can, there's more product waste from overspray when applying it to bumpers, grilles, etc. So, you're not really saving any money.

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9 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

If you use the spray can, there's more product waste from overspray when applying it to bumpers, grilles, etc. So, you're not really saving any money.

I use the airbrush kind 2oz bottles through a GSI Creo PS-270 .2 needle.  I would never dare waist money on a rattle can unless i was gonna decant it and it was the only thing they had available lol.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

I'm sure everyone appreciates your expense and effort to test and post the results.

It's nice to have options, but I won't be buying the AK.   

Yeah I'm not gonna buy more either.  This bottle will last a long time though - so I'll make use of it while i have it.   But it does have its place and is a good alternative.  

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4 minutes ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

Thank you. Based on youu comment above, it sounds like you are NOT buying the kit, or their basecoat, just the 6oz of Chromem correct? 

Yup. In my experience, any glossy black base works fine (I prefer a 2K urethane for overall durability and solvent resistance in real-car interior "chrome"), and any 2K urethane clear will "seal" the stuff without causing a muddy silver effect.

I'm doing custom switch bezels and interior panel accents and surrounds in a high-end '66 Chevelle, and so far, the effect is almost identical to the factory applied "chrome" on the OEM parts.

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4 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Yup. In my experience, any glossy black base works fine (I prefer a 2K urethane for overall durability and solvent resistance in real-car interior "chrome"), and any 2K urethane clear will "seal" the stuff without causing a muddy silver effect.

I'm doing custom switch bezels and interior panel accents and surrounds in a high-end '66 Chevelle, and so far, the effect is almost identical to the factory applied "chrome" on the OEM parts.

Thank you, greatly appreciate the additional information

 

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