1961 Mercedes Benz 190SL - Revell with a few modifications

[89AKurt]

Project for the The 2022 Cannonball Run Year of Birth Build Thread community build.  The Revell Mercedes Benz 190 SL kit was originally released in 1960, re-popped 2008.  They produced the 190 SL from 1955 - 1963, can't tell any differences during that term.  The kit has much to be desired, the Revell engineers had the airplane mentality with the multiple piece body, fixed hubcaps with the tires turning, and procedure of assembly.  The engine has no fan belt with generator, carb (just air cleaner and pipe), manifold or even an exhaust, and the valve cover is not close.  I will assemble the body as a unit, and the interior too.  I'm going the resto-rod route, with a 3D printed Honda S2000 engine, which will require modifying the subframe.  Have a set of modern wheel/tires to use.  I have no plans beyond that, for how many mods, paint color, etc.

What came in the box:

Today I cleaned the parts from minimal flash, ejection pin marks, and mold lines, and used just enough superglue to assemble.  Did not remove the date, I know most "pro" modelers always do that.  The Honda engine is almost the same length, but is taller.

The real car has drum brakes, the kit hubs are super simple, so I will upgrade with the photo-etch disks, which was one of the first photo-etch on the market, can't just throw it away. 🙄  Will need to fabricate calipers.  The interior parts, the floor in front of the seat mounts, and the rear is not glued on, think I will have to glue the door panels on the pan, instructions show to glue on the body.  At least that's my plan.

Think I will have to use Testors glue for assembling the body.  I will only use enough at the pin locations, so it can be adjusted when all of them are put into the box jig, which I will use clay to do something smart (I hope this works). 😅 When that cures, then I will use fresh superglue (bottle I have opened got thick) and baking soda to really make it rigid.  Using lots of putty is expected.  I've never built a model like this from that era, and can only imagine a kid getting frustrated, good job Revell.

[Sam I Am]

Talk about a low parts count kit. I am glad you left the date, that way when someone says "no way", you can say "yes way".  I love your upgrades and look forward to seeing you on the pier in Cali....

Edited May 8, 2022 by Sam I Am

[NOBLNG]

Those were nice looking cars! I like what you plan to do with it.😎 I built a  Revell 1960 Corvette with a multiple piece body and reinforced the seams on the inside with half round styrene and Testors glue.

[cobraman]

Cool project, good luck with it.

[lordairgtar]

At least you got both body sides. My kit is missing the passenger side

[89AKurt]

23 hours ago, Sam I Am said:

Talk about a low parts count kit. I am glad you left the date, that way when someone says "no way", you can say "yes way".  I love your upgrades and look forward to seeing you on the pier in Cali....

The good ol' days, when one had a chance of finishing a model.  Thanks, you have a great head start.

17 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Those were nice looking cars! I like what you plan to do with it.😎 I built a  Revell 1960 Corvette with a multiple piece body and reinforced the seams on the inside with half round styrene and Testors glue.

Thanks.  I might use .02" styrene.

15 hours ago, cobraman said:

Cool project, good luck with it.

Thank you.  Who knows, I might flare the back fenders like a 427 Cobra.

15 hours ago, lordairgtar said:

At least you got both body sides. My kit is missing the passenger side

Bummer!

Not much progress tonight.  Dry assembled the interior, don't see why this procedure won't work.  Marked the location where the air cleaner would go, that will be removed, and am thinking of locating the battery to the trunk.  All the trunk is, what you see now, with a spare tire.  Needs a nitrous bottle, I think.

Instructions, check out the procedure for assembly, there is no way!   One of the issues, at each pin location on the body, there is a divot that will require putty.

Next aftermarket detail, the disk brakes.  I managed to find a scavenged electronic part, a shaft with a screw at the end, almost perfect size to mount the disk, then chuck in the cordless drill, and use sanding sticks to turn those puppies.  The wheels came with screws for the front, so I should modify those hubs.  I always remove the lip on the back of the wheels, and expect to cut down the axles a ways down (sounds so non mechanic, like I'm winging it, which I am).  I know those disks don't have giant calipers that have a large swept area (resin parts on the tape), but the wheel centers will cover that up.

[David G.]

That looks to be one seriously fiddly kit but you seem to be doing quite well with it,

I love the brake upgrade and the jig box is a tremendously clever idea.

David G.

[dino246gt]

I'm liking it already, can't wait to see your progress, step by step!  Will be very cool I'm sure, and yes the date stamped on the bottom is a good thing to keep!

[89AKurt]

20 hours ago, David G. said:

That looks to be one seriously fiddly kit but you seem to be doing quite well with it,

I love the brake upgrade and the jig box is a tremendously clever idea.

David G.

Just the body will be a challenge, ignoring the mods.  Thanks for dropping by.

10 hours ago, dino246gt said:

I'm liking it already, can't wait to see your progress, step by step!  Will be very cool I'm sure, and yes the date stamped on the bottom is a good thing to keep!

Thank you, I can't wait either. 😅

I searched for pictures of the engine, surprised how popular the F20C engine is for stuffing into other cars.  For now, getting the chassis together is the goal. Tonight I figured out one side for the brakes and wheels.   Removed most of the wheel posts, and drilled the holes far as I dared.  Removed 2-3 MM from the back of the rims.  I don't care about the wheels rolling (just what I need is it rolling off the table when it's done), might not use the screws for the front wheels.

Can't really see the disks, so good enough for gubmint work.

I have Splash blue paint that was used on my GSL VW Beetle, but I also have Boyds turquoise to use, so that's what I've been thinking about for color.

[Mattilacken]

On 5/8/2022 at 6:21 AM, 89AKurt said:

then I will use fresh superglue

Nice progress on this project! The "soldering" tequnice from backside would also work good in this case.

[slusher]

Really nice work Kurt,  that kit is no walk in the park. Really good progress. I am a fan of Boyd’s Teal and Pacific blue and a few more.

[89AKurt]

On 5/10/2022 at 1:46 AM, Mattilacken said:

Nice progress on this project! The "soldering" tequnice from backside would also work good in this case.

Thanks.  As you will see.....

On 5/11/2022 at 6:22 AM, slusher said:

Really nice work Kurt,  that kit is no walk in the park. Really good progress. I am a fan of Boyd’s Teal and Pacific blue and a few more.

Thank you.  That's my preliminary choice, but I usually set myself down in the paint booth, and pull several colors, including nail 'polish', and meditate about it.  That's what I did for Porndy:

 

This is several short sessions leading up tonight's full out butchering of this kit.  Something annoying, warped body parts, tried using hot water which helped, but didn't care to risk wrecking it.

Started the body assembly with gluing the front grill part to one side, the tail piece to the trunk part, then the other side to the grill.  Used the box, forgot to take a picture!  Planned on modifying the back fenders, so the only glue attaching to the sides is at the door.  Started to putty the sink marks.

After building up all the glue joints with baking soda, cut off the back fenders.  Cut sheet styrene, the gentle curves was bent, but did 4 segments.  Then lots more glue and soda.  The nice thing about this technique, can progress within 5 minutes.  One side is Cobraized.

A detail I like to do, opening the grill.

I'm still debating what to do for the front wheel arches, flare or bulge.

[David G.]

You weren't kidding about the large amount of work needed on the body! 😮 

Great call on the grille too. I imagine you have a suitable PE mesh to fill it in.

David G. 

[Sam I Am]

Hmmm....

Depending on what suspension you are using and what will be under the hood....my Chevelle might have some competition...might.

😃

[89AKurt]

On 5/14/2022 at 5:13 AM, David G. said:

You weren't kidding about the large amount of work needed on the body! 😮 

Great call on the grille too. I imagine you have a suitable PE mesh to fill it in.

David G. 

I have stainless steel wire mesh that will be perfect.

On 5/14/2022 at 1:21 PM, Sam I Am said:

Hmmm....

Depending on what suspension you are using and what will be under the hood....my Chevelle might have some competition...might.

😃

Only if I finish it.  Come upon a hurdle, regarding the engine not fitting, if I continue to use the cradle subframe.  Think that part will get ditched, and will have to fabricate a new suspension.  As it is now, the oil filter will never come off.

Got the other fender done, and slathered on putty.  Check out what looks like a rookie mold maker did on the 190 SL script.

Which got me to search again for any photo-etch MB emblems, I had done so awhile ago and found nothing.  Lucked out, found a source in Germany, and there was only one left!  I sure hope the price is correct and covers the postage, so fingers crossed.

[David G.]

That script on the trunk is just bad and should be replaced or just removed. Lucky break on the badges, at least you'll have a good emblem to replace it with.

David G.

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, David G. said:

That script on the trunk is just bad and should be replaced or just removed. Lucky break on the badges, at least you'll have a good emblem to replace it with.

David G.

I entertained the idea of getting a MicroMark Micro-Mark Pro-Etch Photo Etch System, for $120.  I don't have any kind of printer, much less an inkjet.

Edited May 17, 2022 by 89AKurt

[peteski]

There is a seller on eBay ( https://www.ebay.com/sch/agdmodels5115/m.html  )who sells lots of Mercedes scripts, but he is in Russia, and probably because of the current political situation has nothing listed.

In the past I've bought bunch of various scripts and hood ornaments from him.

[bill_67]

I have found these on eBay, they may not have the exact script for your car though. I purchased them for my Amt 300sl that I’m currently working on, I’m  customizing it anyway.

[89AKurt]

3 hours ago, bill_67 said:

I have found these on eBay, they may not have the exact script for your car though. I purchased them for my Amt 300sl that I’m currently working on, I’m  customizing it anyway.

...

I will PM you.

[MADmodelDOCTOR]

I wouldn't sand Revell 1960 off a kit, either.

[peteski]

9 hours ago, bill_67 said:

I have found these on eBay

Can you provide more info (like seller's name or link to their store)?  This type of info is nto forbidden on the forum, and would be helpful to others looking for this type of stuff.

[bill_67]

The ebay seller I purchased them from was miniatureauto
- user ID, click for member’s profile all though I'm think they may sold out as I do not see them listed. They are also listed on Zoomonmodel.com web page but I have not purchased from that site.

Edited May 19, 2022 by bill_67

[slusher]

On 5/17/2022 at 8:27 PM, peteski said:

There is a seller on eBay ( https://www.ebay.com/sch/agdmodels5115/m.html  )who sells lots of Mercedes scripts, but he is in Russia, and probably because of the current political situation has nothing listed.

In the past I've bought bunch of various scripts and hood ornaments from him.

Those are really nice!

[peteski]

Thanks Bill.  I checked out zoomonmodel.com and they have lots of goodies listed there. They seem legitimate. Placed a substantial order last night (including those Mercedes logos).  Good stuff!  The purchase was also super-easy with PayPal.  Plus the scripts are much less expensive than from the French seller on eBay.  Don't let the Hong Kong dollar prices scare you.