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AMT 72 Chevy Fleetside Truck Short Bed Conversion


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I did mine by using real dimensions and scaling the difference between an 8' and a 6' , removing some from both sections.

Do a search on YouTube, I watched a guy do it after I did mine, he used a little different sectioning method, but it works.

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If you have the AMT Deserter kit you can use it to help you layout the cuts. The beds interchange on the real trucks so line up the wheel wells and trim away the excess. It will work out to taking about 1" from the end that touches the can and about 1/4" between the wheel are and tailgate. 

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Not sure if you are using the kit frame for the 72, but an accurate and more detailed frame can be found in the Revell 64-66 Chevy pickups. And if you are thinking of going for a 4wd version, the Deserter kit has a perfect frame/drivetrain for the 72. For best accuracy, the front wheel wells on the Deserter are correct for the 67-72 GM trucks.

 

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It's not that hard. Just cut 12MM from between the front of the bed and wheel wells and 6MM from between the rear of the wheel wells and back of the bed. 

If you just cut the length off the front, it makes it harder to mount the front wall of the bed.

Here's where I cut mine,

IMG 1370

IMG 1371

I cut the lip from the back of the bed floor and added it back to the end of the floor. 

 

IF you want to use the chassis plate that comes in the kit, it's easy to shorten up too.

Just cut along in front of the axle, down the inside of the trailing arms and across right at the front of the mufflers.  

Cut a 12mm section from the V formed by the front of trailing arms as shown and from the back of the arms and glue the rear part of the chassis to the top of the front. 

IMG 1372

IMG 1373

Pretty easy really. 

Here's a link to the album for the truck I did a few years ago.

https://public.fotki.com/SteveMilberry/projects/68-chevy-shortbed-pickup/

 

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On the bedside,I  chose to remove the front section from the front edge and rebuild the perpendicular parts that connect with the front panel. The rear section I removed right behind the wheel opening. This option created one less body line to putty smooth.

The floor I tried two methods, the first one I cut the front,patterned from another floor. The second I cut thin and reattached to the main floor. The rear I cut to length and sanded smooth to create the edge for the tailgate.

Hope this helps!

IMG_20220626_200449929.jpg.c783e7c9fc628f62ae14987da3b0e04a.jpgIMG_20220626_200427038.jpg.d32a018423bfe4e5128816e0d9960489.jpgIMG_20220626_200604736.thumb.jpg.6f55c5478f474715e9ebbb44331596c6.jpgIMG_20220626_200532972.jpg.f59e5ff2af57f6167ea1a43d8f759a27.jpgIMG_20211219_185037480.thumb.jpg.905f6851fdac60e62422c374cfcc7934.jpg

Edited by 64SS350
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Thank you! This helps out a lot. Your pictures of the bed really help.

I hate to cut up these expensive kits, but I've always wanted to do a custom truck.

-Frank

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  • 1 month later...
On 6/25/2022 at 7:49 AM, mikemodeler said:

For best accuracy, the front wheel wells on the Deserter are correct for the 67-72 GM trucks.

Is that right? I never even thought of using one of those. I'll have to give that some consideration and research. 

On 6/25/2022 at 8:14 AM, Can-Con said:

IMG 1372

IMG 1373

Pretty easy really. 

Here's a link to the album for the truck I did a few years ago.

https://public.fotki.com/SteveMilberry/projects/68-chevy-shortbed-pickup/

 

That's a good way to shorten it without seeing the cuts. I like it!

Thanks to you both for the good information! 🖒👍

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