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Barbatos Rex YouTube videos - airbrushing Molotov, Future, craft paints, artists acrylics, etc.


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All - this guy has an amazing YouTube channel where he shows how to airbrush a wide array of different paints, and also how to make your own acrylic thinner and airbrush cleaner. Here's one video on airbrushing Molotov. Subscribe to his channel and you can go right down a rabbit hole!
 

 

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Its a great reference for all the different brands and colors, but it is misleading to think you will get results like he does on the spoons compared to actual model parts.

The surface of the spoons are almost all a high gloss polished surface, so you can hose on any paint and once it settles and shrinks it will be very smooth and gloss due to the surface. Kit plastic is also different from what the spoon is made of.

Also tests are done on spoons with high gloss black surface, again makes results look great. But again is misleading.

Personally id rather see the tests done on actual model parts or car bodies that are prepared and primed. Because the results will be different.

Anyone can hose paint on a slick spoon with any brand and have it look great.

Not knocking the guy as he does a good service and is of interest and helpful to the modelling community. Just saying results will vary.

 

 

Edited by Cool Hand
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I watch his videos all the time and have learned a lot. They are great for learning how much to thin, what to thin with, pressures, and heaviness of coats. Also, most of the spoons he uses have a primer coat applied, so getting the same results should not vary by much at all. He also does primer tests, and various spray can tests besides the mostly airbrush tests he does. Again, very informative especially if one is not a seasoned airbrush veteran.

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Yeah he's a good person for the community and even has his own paint line out through MCW.  I don't take all his advice to the head, but a lot of his advice is great.  I wish he'd change it up a bit though and do some kits etc instead of paint, paint, paint, paint.  Far as spoons go you can sand them down and primer and than color test. But i mainly use spoons too test if my mix is right.  

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Luke has a point. 

When using a metallic "chrome" paint for obtaining a mirror-like finish, the metallic "chrome" paint has to be applied over a glass-smooth surface. Think about it.  Take a real glass mirror for example.  A thin layer of silver is applied onto a glass-smooth piece of glass.  The reflected light does not get scattered.  But if a textured (or matte-finish) glass was coated with silver, it would still look silver, but the reflected light would get scattered - no longer producing undistorted reflection like a smooth glass mirror would.  it woudl look duller.

If a shiny-surface bare plastic (like a surface of a plastic spoon)  is used as a base for the "chrome" paint, it will result in a mirror-like finish.  Molotow is alcohol based. Alcohol is a mild solvent which does not attach polystyrene. I suspect that if Alclad II Chrome was applied over bare plastic, its stronger solvent could slightly craze plastic, resulting in a duller "chrome" look.  Of course that also depends on the actual formulation of the plastic.

As for using actual model parts, the same still applies.   If the bare plastic part is polished to a glass-like smoothness (or first sprayed with a high-gloss clear) then Molotow will also produce the chrome-like finish.  But if the part is not glass smooth, then the Molotow will dry to a duller finish.

Edited by peteski
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I agree with @Cool Hand because the of the spoons convex shape, paint shrinkage and coverage is pretty different to paint say a car’s interior trim. 
 

Also the spoons plastic is harder then model grade styrene. Which is aid with paint solvents and maintaining that smooth shinny surface even when prep’d and primed. 

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All valid points. I just like that he gives advice on thinning ratios and how to spray a wide variety of paint types. I expect that experimentation will be involved with everything and results will vary. Let's be honest - we can all use the same spray can and get vastly different results. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

C1 Polishing Powder. One of the best products I have found for simulating chrome. It is applied generally with a cotton wool bud or a small pad over a Gloss or Matt paint depending on the final effect you want. It polishes up brilliantly and the great thing is it is more robust when handled, unlike most of the airbrushed finishes out there unless sealed.

Incidentally, C1 is a UK company and have a very nice range of resin transkits on their website that look to be of very good quality.

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On 6/29/2022 at 10:15 AM, Cool Hand said:

Its a great reference for all the different brands and colors, but it is misleading to think you will get results like he does on the spoons compared to actual model parts.

The surface of the spoons are almost all a high gloss polished surface, so you can hose on any paint and once it settles and shrinks it will be very smooth and gloss due to the surface. Kit plastic is also different from what the spoon is made of.

Also tests are done on spoons with high gloss black surface, again makes results look great. But again is misleading.

Personally id rather see the tests done on actual model parts or car bodies that are prepared and primed. Because the results will be different.

Anyone can hose paint on a slick spoon with any brand and have it look great.

Not knocking the guy as he does a good service and is of interest and helpful to the modelling community. Just saying results will vary.

 

 

Gonna disagree with you on this.  While he does use polished black spoons, he also likes to show how the color of the base can change the hue of the top coat.  To that end he often  sprays a given color over white, gray and black primers (usually by the same mfr as the paint), resulting in three distinct shades.  He also uses primers for better adhesion, especially when using acrylics, as they don't always stick to a bare polished surface as well as enamels or lacquers.  I've seen more than one acrylic fail his "tape test" because of that.  

You seem to be somewhat familiar with the videos so you know he goes through around a dozen or so colors per episode (more with the aforementioned primer variations) so having that many car bodies to use in testing would be expensive and impractical.  Hence the spoons - cheap and readily available.  It's also not uncommon for him to select an unprimed gundam piece to spray just to show how pigmented a certain paint is.

As far as his technique, it's way more than "hose-n-dispose".  Watch how he sprays enamel or lacquer paints vs how he sprays acrylics.   

If you're not familiar with the guy, I'm guessing he's got more than 20 videos out there.  Some may help you learn something new and some may expose you to new products that will enhance your building experience.

 

 

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On 7/21/2022 at 4:42 AM, Bugatti Fan said:

C1 Polishing Powder. One of the best products I have found for simulating chrome. It is applied generally with a cotton wool bud or a small pad over a Gloss or Matt paint depending on the final effect you want. It polishes up brilliantly and the great thing is it is more robust when handled, unlike most of the airbrushed finishes out there unless sealed.

Incidentally, C1 is a UK company and have a very nice range of resin transkits on their website that look to be of very good quality.

I remember watching a video can't remember where, but that C1 is basically repackaged graphite they claim is safer.

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2 hours ago, Monty said:

Gonna disagree with you on this.  While he does use polished black spoons, he also likes to show how the color of the base can change the hue of the top coat.  To that end he often  sprays a given color over white, gray and black primers (usually by the same mfr as the paint), resulting in three distinct shades.  He also uses primers for better adhesion, especially when using acrylics, as they don't always stick to a bare polished surface as well as enamels or lacquers.  I've seen more than one acrylic fail his "tape test" because of that.  

You seem to be somewhat familiar with the videos so you know he goes through around a dozen or so colors per episode (more with the aforementioned primer variations) so having that many car bodies to use in testing would be expensive and impractical.  Hence the spoons - cheap and readily available.  It's also not uncommon for him to select an unprimed gundam piece to spray just to show how pigmented a certain paint is.

As far as his technique, it's way more than "hose-n-dispose".  Watch how he sprays enamel or lacquer paints vs how he sprays acrylics.   

If you're not familiar with the guy, I'm guessing he's got more than 20 videos out there.  Some may help you learn something new and some may expose you to new products that will enhance your building experience.

 

 

Dont really care what you think or say. Ive made my statement and thats it, nothing more to contribute.

I dont need to watch his vids to learn anything about how to paint with particular brand paints, as I am more than capable of getting my own paint and learning for myself.

 

 

 

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Dusty, Your post reminded me that I happen to have some Graphite powder that I bought from a hardware store years ago to use in padlocks instead of oil.

I will do a comparison with the C1 Polishing Powder when I can that I have and come back on this.

 

Luke, your last reply to Monty came over a bit strong and dismissive. We all have differing opinions but also have to respect others points of view without necessarily sharing them.

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14 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:

Dusty, Your post reminded me that I happen to have some Graphite powder that I bought from a hardware store years ago to use in padlocks instead of oil.

I will do a comparison with the C1 Polishing Powder when I can that I have and come back on this.

 

Luke, your last reply to Monty came over a bit strong and dismissive. We all have differing opinions but also have to respect others points of view without necessarily sharing them.

Least from what i seen in the video it looks the same product wise and being used. The guy in the video compared it to this graphite here Graphite Powder and it's $16 for a quart.  That graphite powder you have may be in a tube isn't it? sense it's for locks?  That wont give the same result as C1 as they used that too in the video.  

Edited by Dpate
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Managed to compare my graphite powder with C1 polishing powder since last posting.

My test was to see how they worked on hard black styrene plastic. No primers or underpants were used.

The graphite powder was much less resilient than the C1.  A dull finish was obtained with the graphite powder and it rubbed off a bit when handled. The C1 was more tenacious and polished up better doing this test.

I also tried both on an old Burago die cast metal model directly onto it's very hard high gloss red finish. The graphite just would not hold or polish out and wiped off easily. The C1 fared much better and I polished up an area that stood up to rubbing with my fingers afterwards.

So I have concluded that the C1 is better for polishing up and is resilient to handling. The graphite may have its use if it were applied to a matt finish as the pigment will probably embed better into it.

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