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Batmobile,cracked bonnet


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Hey guys, first of all, sorry for my bad English. I've just acquired a 1:8 scale cinemaquette Batmobile which is in not good shape.I want to fix that crack and sand down the cracked clear coat as well. Luckily I've found a similar paint that matches the base coat already. The only question is, should I repair the bonnet only,I mean respray that particular damaged area or give it 2-3 light clear coat to the whole car? Any advice you could give would be much appreciated. Thank you

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I would repaint the entire body.  Nobody except the manufacturer knows what the original finish is and how it was applied, so nobody could positively duplicate it.  Even if you are able to come up with a good match now, over time either the repaired area or the original finish could deteriorate or age differently, which would again bring about a mismatch.  The only way to avoid that would be to have the same finish on all visible areas.

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I don't know if it's painted black and clear-coated or just clear, but you may have to strip all of the paint off. There's a possibility of paint incompatibility and you risk the chance of paint crazing when you go to refinish it.

Then again, there's also a possibility you could damage the plastic by stripping the paint off.

Just be careful! Try to find out what material the plastic is before you start.

With all those cracks, it looks very brittle. 

Edited by Oldcarfan27
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I'm holding off refinishing a Monogram Duesenberg I built over 40 years ago. Repainting the body because I ran out of the blue for the body and used a different batch of paint on the hood. It never was an exact match though close. But over the years it's even further off now. I'm doing a whole tear down when I get to it since some parts could use re gluing as well. I'm going to refinish the whole body including hood and I may do the fenders over as well ( the fenders are not blue but the paint is in great shape). So I guess my point is rather than try and match the nose maybe paint the entire model since in time things can shift.

In my case I can probably just scuff and refinish, it's all enamel with no clear coat. Other than color match the paint is in great shape. I'll just do enamel again. If it were clear coated I'd strip the paint though. And that may just be your best bet as well.

Edited by Dave G.
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I think it was made of polystone because it's so heavy, or maybe resin. Okay, I'll repaint the entire body. What would be the best option in this case? Automotive 2k clear or Tamiya TS-13 gloss clear? And what about the base coat,I mean should I use any 2K also? Thank you again,really appreciate your help

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Nothing wrong with 2k if you have the necessary safety equipment. I'd use 2k from the primer/sealer coat all the way through the process. Test spray the back side of a piece to insure compatibility. IF it's resin, you should have no problems. Is it even painted now, or just molded in color? Your close up pictures make it look translucent and not very black at all, almost like MAYBE just a shiny clearcoat over black-ish resin. Do keep us posted, I'm curious to see how it goes!

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