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1964 Ned Jarrett Ford


MarkJ

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The decal sheets and sizing the decals to see if they were right before the final printing. I'm using ink jet decals for the color decals this time. They appear to be crisper on the sheet then the laser decals were. The all-white decals have to stay laser.

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Started removing the mouldings. Its pain staking work because most of it is done with a belted sanding stick as to not remove too much material and have to go back and repair the damage with putty. Thats what a dremel tool can do to you. The hardest moulding to remove was where the roof meets the panel in front of the trunk. Very tricky.

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1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Wow, nicely done. I always struggle removing trim. You used the dremel with a sanding drum?

No, I used a belted sanding stick and a flat sanding oval looking thing. I am no good with a dremel and if it gets away from you, you get a gouge you have to repair with putty, and that's extra work I don't need, and would not look that good anyway. i only use a dremel for big jobs that I can't mess up anything if I slip up. This is one job you don't need to rush. And it's necessary. Have you ever seen a nice model with excellent paint and great decals that the guy was too lazy to remove the trim unless it's supposed to be there like some emblems and moldings are left on some race cars. Really not a good thing at all. The early 64 Fords at the beginning of the season had full tailights and the chrome moldings around them. this car was campaigned in June and by then, all the trim and the taillights had been removed.

Edited by MarkJ
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Got the other side done and removed the wiper blades. This car is good because the wiper blades don't extend over the vent grille. The tools shown are what I've been talking about to remove the moldings and other things. The one picture of the back glass area is to show where the hardest molding to remove is. At the base of the roof where it meets the panel in front of the trunk. The scribe tool is necessary to reinstall the door opening lines when you remove the moldings that go across the door to the front fender and quarter panel.

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Just wondering if this kit has the heavy molding line that comes across from the C-pillar.  The original '64 kit I have had a monster molding mark there; just guessing I am going to say .010 maybe 020. That one took a bunch of sanding.

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2 hours ago, TarheelRick said:

Just wondering if this kit has the heavy molding line that comes across from the C-pillar.  The original '64 kit I have had a monster molding mark there; just guessing I am going to say .010 maybe 020. That one took a bunch of sanding.

Yes, Ricky it did. On both sides. I made short work of it with my trusty belted sanding stick. Those mold lines look awful if not removed. This is just like the kit I used a few years ago to do the Tom Pistone 64 Ford. I think they just reboxed it with a smaller box. Thanks for your input.

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5 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Thanks Mark for showing the tools. I wish I had known about belted sanding sticks before. Oh well, never too late to learn and definitely getting one asap.

Great job on prepping that body. You're moving pretty fast on this one.

Thanks, Pierre. I think you will really like the belted sanding stick. The pointed end works really good with tight spots where a regular sanding stick does no good. You will find out the first time you use it. You can buy different grit belts for it too. Micro Mark sells them if you can't find one from your favorite suppliers, but really everyone should offer them. I need to do the rear taillight panel. That's going to take a little detail work. One of those ref pictures I sent you has a pretty good view of it.

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14 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Looking good there Mark. Very impressive job with the body work.  I'm a watchin'.

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate your interest in the build. Have you got anything going on or have you recently posted anything?

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1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

Thanks, Mike. I appreciate your interest in the build. Have you got anything going on or have you recently posted anything?

Yes Mark, working on 914-6 Porsche. Had a real 914 1.8 years ago and always wanted a 914-6 but never got one. 

I have a WIP on here. 

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11 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Yes Mark, working on 914-6 Porsche. Had a real 914 1.8 years ago and always wanted a 914-6 but never got one. 

I have a WIP on here. 

Sounds good. I will see if I can find it.

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Got the rear panel done. At the beginning of the season this car had the chrome rear panel and full taillights on it. By the time the Dixie 400 ran in June, everything was gone replaced by sheet metal. I wanted to do this car because this was the first non-short track win of his career. He followed this up with the 65 Southern 500 and that was his last non short track win of his career. He was like Rex White, a short track king. Rex only had one non short track win in his career, The Dixie 400 in 1962. Just a couple of fun facts I thought you guys might be interested to hear. I think the only thing left to do on the body is the wheel openings. I'm not even going to try to widen out the quarter panel sheet metal that was done to these cars. One other thing my ref pictures show is that the exhaust comes through the frame and the body on this car, so those ports will have to be added under the doors.

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14 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

This looks great Mark. Question, didn't NASCAR ban Ford from running the exhaust running through the frame after Daytona in 64? I remember pictures of Fireball's car wit the patched up lower body. Perhaps Ned's car was handled differently?

Pierre, you know, I thought the same thing and I have a picture of Ned's 64 Ford at The Daytona 500 and it had pipes under the body, but the Dixie car picture definitely showed them back through the body again, so I don't know what is going on with the rules that year. Below is the side of the Dixie car. No pipes under the car and black holes under the door where the pipe came through the body. Go figure. You can also see very small 410 H.P. on the hood and the discrepancy of the decal placement compared to the black and white photo at the finish line. The photo below shows the Autolite on the door but the other one has it on the fender. The micro precision decal is on the door below but on the fender in the black and white photo.  Both ref pictures show the car with the primed left front wheel. Suddenly I notice it looks like Daytona is on the wall below so maybe that's a firecracker 400 picture. The primed wheel might be a coincidence. The races were held less than a month apart so I'm sticking with the decals I made and the placement on the black and white picture. still not sure what the second from the front decal on the fender is on the black and white picture. You can see the black and white photo better on the blown-up photo I have with the wip picture above.

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Edited by MarkJ
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Mark, super nice work on the 64 Galaxie. Best rear end fix I have seen also. 

As for the exhaust, the rule changed some time after the Fireball Roberts crash at Charlotte. NASCAR determined that the exhaust through the frame contributed to the damages to Fireball's Ford. Some other rule changes that came from that wreck were fuel cells and elimination of the asbestos mats on the floorboards. I think they decided the ruptured gas tank which allowed the gasoline to go eveywhere, much ended up soaked into the asbestos matting, acting as a giant wick. The fuel cells were mandated by 1965. I am not sure when the exhaust rule took effect but it was after Charlotte in 64.

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