1964 Ned Jarrett Ford

[MarkJ]

I need to get a paint strainer. That gray Vallejo primer has a lot of grit in it. I bought it from micro mark. Maybe it has been sitting on a shelf there for ten years before they sold it to me. Pierre, what brand of primer do you use? Is it gritty by any chance?

[Pierre Rivard]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

I need to get a paint strainer. That gray Vallejo primer has a lot of grit in it. I bought it from micro mark. Maybe it has been sitting on a shelf there for ten years before they sold it to me. Pierre, what brand of primer do you use? Is it gritty by any chance?

I also use Vallejo, 70.615 Ghost Grey. I never see any grit in it. Your's definitely looks thicker than mine. I would get nowhere near that coverage with 20% reduction.

[MarkJ]

2 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

I also use Vallejo, 70.615 Ghost Grey. I never see any grit in it. Your's definitely looks thicker than mine. I would get nowhere near that coverage with 20% reduction.

I think I will find a bottle about the size of the primer bottle and strain the whole bottle into it, and then clean the original bottle and strain it again back into the original bottle. That should hopefully take care of the grit. The sanding is coming along pretty good, so it shouldn't be too much longer to get that beautiful blue you came up with on it. Hopefully I can get rid of the brush marks this time, so the sanding and polishing with the Novus will give me the results I'm looking for.

[MarkJ]

Got the final sanding with the 12000-grit done and will try the color coats tomorrow. I will have to keep reminding myself "light coats, Mark".  "Light coats". I always put the paint on to thick and regret it. So again, "3 light coats, Mark and see what you have". I'm so used to spraying Tamiya and the first coat usually gives you pretty good coverage. This paint is so thin you have to do light brush coats and let it build up to give you proper coverage. You have to be patient.

[Pierre Rivard]

13 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Got the final sanding with the 12000-grit done and will try the color coats tomorrow. I will have to keep reminding myself "light coats, Mark".  "Light coats". I always put the paint on to thick and regret it. So again, "3 light coats, Mark and see what you have". I'm so used to spraying Tamiya and the first coat usually gives you pretty good coverage. This paint is so thin you have to do light brush coats and let it build up to give you proper coverage. You have to be patient.

Absolutely Mark. More so with paint with metal medium in it. Polishing the color coat is not an option so it needs to go on diluted, thin and at least 2 coats with 1/2 hour dry time between them. This is like the opposite thinking to what we do with Future. You have time with thin paint to work it in position and not worry with coverage, the next layer will take care of that.

I look forward to seing the result.

[MarkJ]

4 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Absolutely Mark. More so with paint with metal medium in it. Polishing the color coat is not an option so it needs to go on diluted, thin and at least 2 coats with 1/2 hour dry time between them. This is like the opposite thinking to what we do with Future. You have time with thin paint to work it in position and not worry with coverage, the next layer will take care of that.

I look forward to seing the result.

Thanks. Pierre. Your guidance has been much appreciated through this journey to freedom from rattle cans and airbrushes. Which I really never want to go back to.

[MarkJ]

Started painting yesterday. The first photo below is after the first coat. I forgot to take a picture after the second coat, so the second picture is after the third coat. the 3rd picture is after the fourth coat. I just put on the 5th coat and the coverage finally got to looking like something was happening. I'm hoping the sixth coat might be the last. I started out with too wide a brush. The narrower brush did a much better job for coverage. I decided to add a drop of retarder and a drop of silver to the recipe to improve the flow of the paint and also give it just a hint of a metallic look. This began on the 5th coat. hope to get those photos on soon.

[MarkJ]

I'm back after the 5th and 6th coats. the photos with the bottles are the 5th coat and the photos without the bottles are the 6th coat. I'm already seeing reflections in the paint, and I haven't started polishing yet. If you look closely, you can see the reflections of the bottles in the side of the model.

[Pierre Rivard]

It took more coats than I would have expected but it looks smooth without brusk marks. Super nice!

First time I see this 70.997 silver. Did it integrate well to the mix?

How much retarder did you use and do you feel it helps?

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

It took more coats than I would have expected but it looks smooth without brusk marks. Super nice!

First time I see this 70.997 silver. Did it integrate well to the mix?

How much retarder did you use and do you feel it helps?

Pierre, I was surprised how well one drop of the silver really did integrate well into the mix. And I used one drop of the retarder and I do believe it helped with brush marks. The retarder comes out of the bottle almost like glue because it's so thick, but if you put it into the mix before you add the thinner it dissolves perfectly. I think the retarder also made the paint look less flat, so I'm thinking the polishing might not have to be so intensive. I think I will mix up one more batch of the mix and just hit the light spots. There are a few in the trunk. I also forgot to say that I added one more drop of thinner since I added the silver and the retarder. Your recipe for the blue looks perfect to me as a match to the color ref pics I have and the ones you posted. I'm Very happy with it.

[Pierre Rivard]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

Pierre, I was surprised how well one drop of the silver really did integrate well into the mix. And I used one drop of the retarder and I do believe it helped with brush marks. The retarder comes out of the bottle almost like glue because it's so thick, but if you put it into the mix before you add the thinner it dissolves perfectly. I think the retarder also made the paint look less flat, so I'm thinking the polishing might not have to be so intensive. I think I will mix up one more batch of the mix and just hit the light spots. There are a few in the trunk. I also forgot to say that I added one more drop of thinner since I added the silver and the retarder. Your recipe for the blue looks perfect to me as a match to the color ref pics I have and the ones you posted. I'm Very happy with it.

Great to hear you are happy with the blue. Looks like our painting techniques are converging. I'll try the silver/retarder adds you did for my current build. Thanks.

[MarkJ]

4 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Great to hear you are happy with the blue. Looks like our painting techniques are converging. I'll try the silver/retarder adds you did for my current build. Thanks.

Sounds good, I think you will like it. Let me know if your retarder is thick coming out of the bottle. Maybe I just have an old bottle that went bad, or it's supposed to be thick. It still worked great.

[MarkJ]

I believe I have enough paint on the model to start the sanding process with the 6000,8000,12000, sanding cloths.  If it goes well, I will follow up with the Novus 1 and Novus 2 polishes. If not, I will add more paint and try again. This is the first time I did not have to sand between color coats, so that is giving me hope that this might be my best result yet in this brush painting deal. Hopefully I've turned the corner and can finally get some presentable results. I will wait a few days to make sure the paint has fully cured before I start the sanding and polishing.

 

 

 

 

 

[TransAmMike]

You're doing great Buddy, would not have expected such a good result brushing. That's quite an extensive process but the result is impressive. 

[MarkJ]

25 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

You're doing great Buddy, would not have expected such a good result brushing. That's quite an extensive process but the result is impressive. 

Thanks, Mike. Now I can move on to the interior for a few days and hope the polishing process will pan out okay.

[herbertb]

What kind of brush are you using?  Also was told one time they drove the cars to River side is that the reason one of the pictures has taillight.

[MarkJ]

10 hours ago, herbertb said:

What kind of brush are you using?  Also was told one time they drove the cars to River side is that the reason one of the pictures has taillight.

Herbert, I will take a photo of the brush and post it here.  It is good to buy a high-quality artist brush when brush painting models. Hobby Lobby sells them and sometimes they have reduced prices on them. It is good to use a soft brush. You will save money in the long run buying a high-quality brush. By 1964 they were no longer driving the cars to racetracks. The taillights were left in because there were no rules to remove them yet but eventually during the season, they would get damaged so they would cover the spot where the lamp or whatever it was with some kind of metal cover. So early in the season you would see taillights and later on they were gone, replaced by sheet metal or aluminum. I heard a story that in the early fifty's Hershell McGriff drove his car from California to Darlington South Carolina, and then raced it in the Southern 500. 

[Pierre Rivard]

Mark, are you polishing the color coat? Look forward to seing that as I was not successful doing that on a metallic. I polish the primer and the acrylic clear.

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Mark, are you polishing the color coat? Look forward to seing that as I was not successful doing that on a metallic. I polish the primer and the acrylic clear.

Pierre, thank you so much for keeping me from making a mistake. I should put a couple of coats of clear acryl on the color coated model first before I start sanding or polishing. I had forgotten completely about that step. Thanks again. Another senior moment on my part.

Edited August 4, 2022 by MarkJ

[MarkJ]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

Herbert, I will take a photo of the brush and post it here.  It is good to buy a high-quality artist brush when brush painting models. Hobby Lobby sells them and sometimes they have reduced prices on them. It is good to use a soft brush. You will save money in the long run buying a high-quality brush. By 1964 they were no longer driving the cars to racetracks. The taillights were left in because there were no rules to remove them yet but eventually during the season, they would get damaged so they would cover the spot where the lamp or whatever it was with some kind of metal cover. So early in the season you would see taillights and later on they were gone, replaced by sheet metal or aluminum. I heard a story that in the early fifty's Hershell McGriff drove his car from California to Darlington South Carolina, and then raced it in the Southern 500. 

Herbert, here is the brush I use for painting large items like body's, frames or interior tubs. Works great.

[MarkJ]

Started on the interior. Have to get rid of the floor and seats, but save the driver's seat. I will need to add a new floor with drive shaft tunnel. Add a new rear foundation and package tray, and fix the door trim panels. After all that I can continue with the dash and roll cage and the other stuff. The sprue cutter comes in very handy for the demolition of the old interior.

[Pierre Rivard]

Sometimes carnage cannot be avoided...

[MarkJ]

8 minutes ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Sometimes carnage cannot be avoided...

Yes, I will have to do the same thing with the frame. Lots of carnage.

[TransAmMike]

Man Buddy, you are a glutten for punishnent😉😉😀

[MarkJ]

19 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Man Buddy, you are a glutten for punishnent😉😉😀

 

Cmon Mike, you have a lot of room to talk tackling that warped Porsche. I can't just put a roll cage in a stock interior. It just wouldn't look right. Ya think?