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Been fiddling around long enough with some small stuff.  It's time to get back into something a bit more substantial.  This one has been on my mind for a while now and the modeling juices have begun to flow once again.  The only question left is whether it will be the wrecker version or another dump truck to fill out the line.  There are 5 dumps in the display case and this one would be a unique addition.

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The frame has been started using brass stock.  I had some rectangular tubing that was the correct height for an 8" frame but one side needed to be cut open to form a channel section.  That was done with a Dremel and cutting disk.  Cross members are a combination of brass and plastic that came from the parts box and seemed to fit the particular need.

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8 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

At first, I thought the book was a model box. I should have known better. This will be good!!! I always enjoy your builds Charles! Looking forward to seeing more of this one!!

Would be nice if it was, Brian!  Wish I had a stretch machine that would go from 1/35 to 1/25 scale!!

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On 8/17/2022 at 8:06 AM, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

At first, I thought the book was a model box. I should have known better. This will be good!!! I always enjoy your builds Charles! Looking forward to seeing more of this one!!

I thought the same thing too, at first. I’m always so impressed with builds like this where the vast majority of it is totally scratch-built. On the MTB forum, he said the estimate of scratch building of this one would be 95% - what an artist!

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There was a company called Mirror Models, that produced 1/35 scale kits, there was 2 Wreckers, 2 Dump trucks, and 2 Cargo trucks! You had a choice of hard cabs or a soft top! 

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On 8/20/2022 at 11:45 AM, bigred63 said:

There was a company called Mirror Models, that produced 1/35 scale kits, there was 2 Wreckers, 2 Dump trucks, and 2 Cargo trucks! You had a choice of hard cabs or a soft top! 

I have a 1/35 scale kit of a Diamond T tank hauler pulling a trailer.  Lots of parts, great tire assortment and all.  But I'm sort of stuck on doing one in 1/25 scale!😎

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Progress has been slow on this build but that is ok.  I'm in no hurry.  It has been somewhat of a challenge, especially for coming up with appropriate springs because of the lack of brass strips of the right size.  I have some 1/8" x 1/64 strip stock on order for the fronts but the 5/32 stock just is not available so plan B went into affect.  The springs came from another truck kit but have been modified to fit this build.  For the front springs I added a short strip of brass with tubing soldered on the ends.  That way I can set them in the spring brackets with some strength.  The rears will sit on a bracket that is mounted on the center pivot point and with the flat portion of the springs sitting on each axle.  Now it's on to the axles themselves.   Those "b" shaped brass pieces next to the rear springs are what the torque rods will attach to once they are mounted on each axle.

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Impressive work! You always have ways to push modeling to the next level.  I agree about needing a stretch machine for already done 1/35 scale pieces that dominates military scene. The old 6 hand hole design from the 40's-50's is a must do. Panzer Art 1/35 wheels from ebay listings.

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Edited by leafsprings
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  • 3 weeks later...

Been working on the frame and axles of the Diamond T.  Slow progress but it's there.  No time limit on this one.  

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Axles are done as far as basics are concerned.  Working now on the steering for the front end.  They are made of soldered C section and tubing.  Wheels have been given the Fusion bead treatment up front.    The front axle has mounting points and the wire U-bolts are ready.

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Next up will the the finished axle with the steering knuckles in place, steering arm and tie rod done.

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Up on all 10's.  Well, almost.  Things are just sitting in position with no permanent connections.  The front axle and wheels are mounted but the axle is not connected to the springs yet.  Same for the rear axles.  The wheel hubs are now attached with tubing plugged with plastic rod and then drilled out for the small screws and washers that hold them in place.  Pretty solid but turn smoothly.  Now it's on to the torque rods and their connections that will hold the rear axles in position with the springs floating on top.

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Edited by Chariots of Fire
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  • 2 weeks later...

Work continues on the frame of the Diamond T.  It's widget time for the rear axles as well as around the front.  Here are some update photos.

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The rear axles are essentially done.  All of the torque rods are complete and in place.  LIttle things like bolt heads, brake cans, the driveshaft between axles have been added.  The rear springs float on top of the square axles and pivot about the center.  The front axle is glued to the springs and with wire U-bolts.  The Pitman arm, and steering rod have been installed.  Stops have been added to  the bottom of the frame just in front of the rear spring shackles.020.thumb.JPG.852bd9d138d6bda7ef8de14a852dcb84.JPG

 Everything is in place and the tires can be temporarily set on the hubs.  A check was made to be sure that the frame sits level.  It does.

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There are sections of 1/16" tubing that connect the front springs to the shackles.  These will eventually be trimmed to be independent.  For now they just help keep things in place for fitting.

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Using those fusion beads again for lug nuts.  They stand out nicely, even when painted.  They are held in place with pieces of brass wire acting as the studs.

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Top view of the frame and axles.  An unusual feature of this build will be the engine.  It is offset to the right so that the oil pan will clear the front differential housing.

 

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Here are some update photos on the Diamond T.  Still working on the frame, tires and wheels.  I got some Tamiya "rubber black" TS-82 yesterday and tried it out.  I like the color.  Frame work is nearly done.  Every time I go back to look at the Walkaround for the Diamond T I see more stuff!

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Top view of the frame to date.

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Here's the front end with the steering arm in place along with shock absorbers and finished tires and wheels.

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The back end has a lot going on.  Tonite I finished up the pintle hook and the additional frame supports for it.  The bumpers are made from annealed brass formed over a Renshape buck.  Doing them this way really helped in getting them to look alike.

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The rear axles without the wheels and tires in the way.  

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All rear outside wheels have been modified with fusion beads and wire for lug nuts similar to the front ones.  Makes a real difference.  Each wheel is a resin casting and the cast in lugs don't always come out good.  If I used a pressure pot to cast them it might have worked better but removing and replacing them assured a clean and uniform look for each wheel.

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