250 Testa Rossa Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Okay, guys. I know I've been really hesitant about posting this, but this is my current build, a Monogram 1965 Shelby GT350 R-Model. Shelby American built 36 of these in 1965; the first 2 cars (5R001, and 5R002) being prototypes, and 34 production cars, which were broken up into three batches (5R094-5R108, 5R209-5R213, 5R527-5R540). The car I decided to tackle is 5R101, which is the eight production R Model, and has an incredible racing history. 5R101 was also the most winningest R Model to have competed in vintage racing, racking up 52 wins and 24 podium finishes between 1979 and 1986 with Alan Bolte at the wheel. In 2003, 5R101 was invited to the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Since there are so many different versions of 5R101 throughout the years, I have decided to build the current version of the car. Right now, I am working on doing the rear valence panel, but would like to know how to add the bumps that are under the taillights. So far, I have the interior completed, along with the lines underneath the chassis. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Great car to model. Your interior looks very good. Looking forward to more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Excellent frame … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 11, 2022 Author Share Posted September 11, 2022 Thanks guys. It's been a long journey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Rivard Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Beautiful work so far Maxx. This will no doubt turn into an excellent model. What do you use for the underbody wiring/plumbing retainers and for seatbelt hardware? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 The interior and chassis look great so far! David G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 12, 2022 Author Share Posted September 12, 2022 Thanks guys! Right now, I'm trying to figure out the bumps on the rear valence panel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65slotcar Posted September 12, 2022 Share Posted September 12, 2022 looking good Maxx . here is what the bumps look like with no other sheet metal around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 12, 2022 Author Share Posted September 12, 2022 Yes! Those? Just need to know the best way to recreate these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Van Posted September 12, 2022 Share Posted September 12, 2022 Looks like thin strip stock can be used to make those raised areas. Soften the edges, attach, then sand some more. Great build BTW.......I am bias....... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 12, 2022 Author Share Posted September 12, 2022 Thanks. I will try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 12, 2022 Author Share Posted September 12, 2022 Me with the car in May 2021. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 23, 2022 Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 Well, I wasn't happy with the way the body was coming out, so I started over. We've all been there, and I'm sure you know the saying "s--- happens", and I ended up getting a new body and rear valence panel. I just need to know how to make the rear valence look like a two piece unit that is up to par with the real thing. I tried using that Tamiya 2 part epoxy putty and it actually separated from the panel, causing my part to not be flush. I will provide pics of the new body, and what I am trying to achieve before I put the license plate on. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David G. Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 Hello Maxx. I'm not sure about what you want the end effect to be. It looks like you might want it to look like one piece of sheet metal overlapping another, is that correct? My first suggestion is to fill it all in and scribe panel lines where you want them. But if you want an overlapping look you may have luck using some thicker aluminum foil as the overlapping piece. Burnish and glue the foil over top of the lower piece to create the overlapping piece. You should be able to find some foil that's close to the scale thickness of the metal you want to replicate. I've done similar things before with mostly satisfactory results. I hope that's helpful. David G. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 25, 2022 Author Share Posted September 25, 2022 17 hours ago, David G. said: Hello Maxx. I'm not sure about what you want the end effect to be. It looks like you might want it to look like one piece of sheet metal overlapping another, is that correct? My first suggestion is to fill it all in and scribe panel lines where you want them. But if you want an overlapping look you may have luck using some thicker aluminum foil as the overlapping piece. Burnish and glue the foil over top of the lower piece to create the overlapping piece. You should be able to find some foil that's close to the scale thickness of the metal you want to replicate. I've done similar things before with mostly satisfactory results. I hope that's helpful. David G. This part 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 28, 2022 Author Share Posted September 28, 2022 Wound up using a suitably sized half round to enhance the rear valence. Used Tamiya Polyester 2 Part Putty, and feathered out with a putty knife. Will be sanded smooth. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afx Posted September 30, 2022 Share Posted September 30, 2022 Good looking project Maxx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted September 30, 2022 Author Share Posted September 30, 2022 Decided to work on the left rear flare and shape it. Used Evergreen #107 styrene strip, sanded to shape, and Tamiya epoxy putty was used on top, and the shape was carved with a clay tool. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DustyMojave Posted October 13, 2022 Share Posted October 13, 2022 The rear valence on an early Mustang is a separate piece of sheet metal from the rear body panel and the rear corners above the bumper are cast zinc pieces. The valence should be overlapping the body rear panel as it is bolted onto it. The shapes in the body rear panel could readily be made of .020 styrene sheet. Glued in place, then the left tapered down to practically zero, while the right side is left standing out proud, but both sides should be molded to the back panel with white glue or something similar that will fill without requiring further grinding and shaping. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted October 14, 2022 Author Share Posted October 14, 2022 On 10/12/2022 at 7:14 PM, DustyMojave said: The rear valence on an early Mustang is a separate piece of sheet metal from the rear body panel and the rear corners above the bumper are cast zinc pieces. The valence should be overlapping the body rear panel as it is bolted onto it. The shapes in the body rear panel could readily be made of .020 styrene sheet. Glued in place, then the left tapered down to practically zero, while the right side is left standing out proud, but both sides should be molded to the back panel with white glue or something similar that will fill without requiring further grinding and shaping. I'm working on that right now as we speak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted October 23, 2022 Author Share Posted October 23, 2022 New approach with the rear valence. Laid a piece of .020" over the original part, cut it to shape, and sanded it down until it was thin enough to my liking. Might need a bit more tweaking, and some more detailing bits. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bytownshaker Posted November 14, 2022 Share Posted November 14, 2022 Any progress Maxx and may I ask what seat belt photo etch did you use? Edgar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
250 Testa Rossa Posted November 14, 2022 Author Share Posted November 14, 2022 12 hours ago, bytownshaker said: Any progress Maxx and may I ask what seat belt photo etch did you use? Edgar The seat belts are 1/24th scale RB Productions belts. I am hoping to post more progress in the coming days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark IV Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 Chassis looking good. The four rounds are the rubber plugs for the seat mounting studs. There should be 4 more inboard. Most R models I understand didn't have them replaced when the seats were swapped for the race buckets but that would leave a hole with the stud and nut visible and be tough to do. I added four more on my chassis with photo etched rings and filled them with black rubber paint. The ovals are the drains from primer dipping and should be silver/gray galvanized. There would be white overspray on the outer parts of the floor as well as black seam sealer. The transmission crossmember is bare steel so not painted black. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted November 17, 2022 Share Posted November 17, 2022 You do really clean work Rick. Your time in it shows. cheers, tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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