AMT '56 Ford Fairlane chassis swap?

[JollySipper]

Hello, Fellas! I'll be ordering the '56 Fairlane/Victoria kit soon. From what I've seen of this kit, the chassis and engine are somewhat simplified.... I've been pondering what could be done about swapping something else in. Has anyone done a chassis swap on this kit? It doesn't have to be a 'factory' style chassis.......... In fact, I've got an '89 T Bird chassis that I was wondering if it would fit. Anything that could give me ideas!

From pro-tour to kustom, any ideas are welcome.........

[Ace-Garageguy]

My first thought...the Revell Foose Ford pickup kit has a chassis that should adapt pretty easily. Independent pro-touring style front suspension, Ford 9" solid rear end, mostly straight frame rails, a wheelbase that's not too far off, and a hot-rod Ford engine in the bargain.

EDIT: One of the Revell '57 Fords could work for you too. The chassis are very detailed, and I've actually seen a real '56 body shell swapped on to a '57 chassis...though they're entirely different designs.

EDIT 2: The Revell Foose Caddy chassis is probably the most obvious choice, and it has independent rear suspension too.

Edited September 12, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

[Mark]

Closer to stock, the ex-Lindberg, now AMT '53 Ford is the closest thing out there.  It will probably be a lot of work to fit it to the '56 though, as the areas between the frame rails are deeper than those on the '56 chassis as I recall.

[Jon Haigwood]

Possibly Revells 57 Ford .  

 

Revell 57 Fireball Roberts at the top.

AMT 56 Victoria at the bottom  

Edited September 13, 2022 by Jon Haigwood

[JollySipper]

23 minutes ago, Jon Haigwood said:

Possibly Revells 57 Ford .

That looks pretty close, huh? How different is the actual frame in the '57 kit compared to the '56?

[Jon Haigwood]

9 minutes ago, JollySipper said:

That looks pretty close, huh? How different is the actual frame in the '57 kit compared to the '56?

I originally planned on doing this as suggested by another member. I have not started that build yet. I haven't located the frame yet to show it here but from what I remember it was  fairly close to the 56. If I can located I will post a pic.

[Mark]

Frames are different as '56 and '57 were two different generations.  But, as Ace says, there are instances where a '57 frame was installed under a '56.  Not sure what the advantages would be, though.

Those who want a typical Pro Street "tubbed" chassis should look at the AMT '68-'70 B-body Mopars for the rear section.  Mid/late Sixties intermediates are generally about the same size as mid-Fifties cars.  The parts in the '70 Coronet are a bit different from those in the '68-'69 kits.  Rear kickup is higher, rear axle is different.  

It's a pain to do, but I have removed the molded-in exhaust pipes from a '56 chassis.  Hopefully I'll remember to post a picture of it later.

[Jon Haigwood]

From instructions for the 57

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

44 minutes ago, Mark said:

Frames are different as '56 and '57 were two different generations.  But, as Ace says, there are instances where a '57 frame was installed under a '56.  Not sure what the advantages would be, though...

My understanding on one of them was that the '56 frame had been badly lozenged, from a hard impact on the end of one of the forward rails, and the rail itself was too badly accordioned to save.

The local junkyard had a cheap '57 frame, but no '55-'56s, so the owner chose to save an otherwise nice car with the '57 unit. 

It's not as daunting a project as it would first appear to a non-fabricator, as the body shell floors are relatively flat through the cabin area, and sit on rubber bushings on top of fabbed steel brackets.

Though the '57 wheelbase is 118", as opposed to the 2.5" shorter 115.5" of the '56, this is relatively easily dealt with by a skilled fabricator/welder. Measure, cut, jig, butt-weld, gusset, and box the area if it's a C-channel section..

This was back in a time when a guy with good physical skills but little money would readily jump into something few would even contemplate today.

Edited September 13, 2022 by Ace-Garageguy
CLARITY and ACCURACY

[Jon Haigwood]

AMT 56 top , Revell 57 bottom . wheelbase looks very close to the same. Revell 57 Gasser wagon basically the same

 

Edited September 13, 2022 by Jon Haigwood

[Mark]

On the 1:1 car, wheelbase adjustment could be made by lining up the front suspension, then shifting the rear axle forward on the leaf springs to center the rear wheels in the inner wheel wells.  But swapping the floor pan too will keep the rear wheels wherever they fall.  Stretching the wheel opening to the rear should make things match up.

[Jon Haigwood]

All depends on what kind of build you are  , Resto-Mod go something newer as suggested above

Edited September 13, 2022 by Jon Haigwood

[Can-Con]

But, if you're wanting to swap the frames just because someone told you the '56 frame is "somewhat simplified", I wouldn't bother unless you plan to do a wild custom .

The only real drawback to the '56 kit I see is the molded in exhaust. The rest really isn't bad and even has poseable front wheels. Just because it doesn't have 300 parts doesn't make it bad.

Edited September 13, 2022 by Can-Con

[Oldcarfan27]

47 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

The only real drawback to the '56 kit I see is the molded in exhaust. The rest really isn't bad and even has poseable front wheels. Just because it doesn't have 300 parts doesn't make it bad.

My thoughts exactly. At least everything is not molded into it.

But that's just me. 

[Oldcarfan27]

3 hours ago, Jon Haigwood said:

Depending on your motivation,  it might be easy enough to cut away the floor pans, trim and sand off the exhaust and glue the smoothed pans back in place.

[Mark]

YES, it IS possible to remove the molded-in exhaust detail from the kit chassis.  It's a real pain, but it can be done.

First step is to fill the hollowed-out exhaust pipe detail on the top side.  I used "sprue filler" on this one, but someone here tuned me in to a two-part epoxy putty.  I'd use that on any of these tasks that I'd consider in the future.  Rough up the areas where the epoxy putty will go.  Don't bother with the mufflers or the little triangular areas at the front.  Those areas can/will be cut out and filled with sheet plastic later.

After the epoxy putty cures, shave the pipe detail off.  I use X-Acto knives with different shape SHARP blades for most of it.  A very slow turning Dremel tool could be used (not the 5,000 rpm that is the "slowest" speed on most of them, you want it slowed to a crawl).  

Once the pipe detail is gone, cut out the mufflers and small triangular areas towards the front.  Cut those areas neatly and cement scrap sheet plastic pieces to fill the resulting holes.

After those areas are taken care of, rough up the floor areas and apply a thin layer of two-part glazing putty.  After that is sanded, Evergreen strip stock can be used to duplicate stiffening rib detail on the floorpan where the exhaust detail used to be.  This method should work for nearly any kit chassis with molded-in exhaust detail.  Might even work for molded-in rear axles in some cases, but figure on more work.  It's like trying to eat an elephant...one bite at a time...

 

[JollySipper]

That looks pretty good! and Shaving away the exhaust would allow me to do a custom exhaust, like making scavenger pipes or something along those lines........

[bisc63]

Another possible swap involves cross-breeding (gasp!) a Chevelle (AMT or Revell pro street) chassis, if you wanted a pro-street/racing setup. 115 inch wheelbase vs 115.5 inch wheelbase.

[espo]

Following this with interest and a couple of things have come to mind. As I understand it the object is to create a better appearing frame for the AMT '56 Ford Fairlane kit. Remembering that the kit was engineered and created in the last century and was considered very well done in its time. The idea of putting the frame of the Revell '57 Ford kit under the '56 is a consideration, with concerns about the difference in the wheelbase. As mentioned, the factory wheelbase between the '56 Ford Fairlane and '57 Ford Fairlane was slightly different. The Revell '57 Ford kit representing the base two door Mainliner model was a car with a shorter wheelbase than the "57 Fairlane 1:1 car. I'm not sure if this would make it the same wheelbase as the '56 Fairlane. The suggestion of removing the exhaust system and filling the hole left in the floor-pan is a good suggestion and not requiring cannibalizing another kit for the sake of a couple of mufflers and tail pipes. This would be the most cost-effective way to remove the exhaust system, the only thing I would suggest in doing it that way would be to remove the entire floor pan sections between the frame rails in those areas effected and then just use a thin sheet of material to replace the floor pan in the affected area.