Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

'51 Studebaker, Peking to Paris Rally (community build project)


Ace-Garageguy

Recommended Posts

  • Ace-Garageguy changed the title to '51 Studebaker, Peking to Paris Rally (community build project)
7 hours ago, gbtr6 said:

Bill,

Have you had a chance to use any of the burs you got from me? I'd think they'd do well on the die cast as well as plastic. Interested to hear what you think.

Perry

Not yet, as my chuck adapters for the Dremel won't quite handle the shanks on the cutters.

But I have some on the way that will.

I'm pretty sure the burrs you sent will be exactly what I need to do some mods on the diecast body.

I've been using the same tungsten carbide cutters I got over a decade back, on steel, and they're still sharp and effective, almost indestructible if you don't let them get clogged.

I expect the dental cutters to be much the same.   :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

While I had the little lathe set up, still on higher speed for aluminum, I thought I'd see if I could turn some pulleys. I don't really like most of what's available aftermarket.

DSCN7754.JPG.680e1085a1c8dbc4d35ad7df4c293222.JPG

This was more to see if I could do something acceptable with the cutters I've got on hand. I'm pretty well satisfied.

DSCN7752.JPG.9e8b4eed933e03793b526dc3f95af561.JPG

This is a shot of the decklid, closer trimmed, moving along.

DSCN7737.JPG.bd28c9a1b2febc48a419ca4a2f0f097a.JPG

Body mods beginning, primarily de-chroming, removing the wipers, and reworking the top of the windshield opening to a more correct shape (including re-scribing the rubber surround). I got a little too horsey at the top of the pillar, but that's what they make micro-balloon and epoxy for. This model has its share of shape and proportion inaccuracies, and I could easily get into the usual never-finished mode if I don't keep myself on a short leash. This thing is already WAY beyond the original KISS plan. Lower part of the firewall got gone too, and some inner fender stuff.

DSCN7740.JPG.349dc3a133695e6673801733110d9765.JPG

Engine's coming together. I shortened the bellhousing to look more like a Lakewood scattershield, and fabbed a simple engine plate to go between it and the engine (after thinning the flange on the bellhousing too). Heads have nice molded plug detail, but it's wrong, and is going away.

DSCN7741.JPG.24abedc5504cabe551d0b6ba466111ef.JPG

Engine getting acquainted with the chassis for the first time.

DSCN7742.JPG.a03225771621864c54088a13c8f8dc4b.JPG

Engine in the body, and part of the reason I had to remove a chunk of the firewall. There's enough space at the front of the engine for the fan to clear the radiator, just like real.

DSCN7744.JPG.df84449dab2ea952758a64e602eba818.JPG

This session's money shot...the engine, bellhousing, and gearbox fit over the crossmember and under the trans tunnel just like I'd hoped.

DSCN7743.JPG.989d19554c8c5dc47d12d1b5f6d6e1dd.JPG

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drilled a distributor cap from a NASCAR kit for plug wires. The cap is a fair representation of an MSD crank-triggered unit...not disallowed by the rules as far as I'm aware. A high output, electronically-controlled ignition system is always nice if you can run one, especially if the fuel available on the course might be of uneven quality. Though today's electronics are very robust, if I prepped the car, it would carry spare ignition components, maybe even a point-type advance plate and an old-school coil as a worst-case backup.

DSCN7749.JPG.fc8233ede9a973ef8292629671ea31a8.JPG

Front shroud was carefully separated from radiator, and rad cap was removed for ease of painting. The rad core will probably get replaced by something with some detail, but maybe not, as you can't really see it once it's installed.

DSCN7751.JPG.e8a9e60d3653166b716c3165d365c3d9.JPG

Backing plates were carefully sawed from the spindles to facilitate tuning the ride height in an upcoming step. Thinking and planning ahead makes any project go smoother, and avoids unnecessary re-dos.

DSCN7771.JPG.a5f0f035d4b200f0d7bc7e6bd263a47f.JPG

The molded-in front crossmember started to bug me, so after determining that the '53 crossmember was visually similar, I elected to replace the molded one with one I'd cut from a '53 that's becoming a dry-lakes car. The lower control arm molding will be used as a jig to get the crossmember situated correctly.

DSCN7750.JPG.b6e6161cfd0422d9e7998d33ee9cae80.JPG

Making sure everything fits within the body shell right is important, and some meat had to be added to the inner rails so the crossmember would be a snug fit.

DSCN7766.JPG.cd3b0c37c5f5e257cde11f77e6812acc.JPG

New crossmember in place, correctly positioned relative to the control arm unit. The top of the control arm unit was shaved slightly to let the crossmember snuggle down a little lower, giving more oil pan clearance. The engine mounts will extend to the rear from the bumps on the crossmember.

DSCN7767.JPG.0895d624de7ba83f3241a70f0e3563d9.JPG

Next thing to address was to extend the frame rails forward to the same length as on a real '51. The diecast has a separate part that simulates the frame ends, and carries the front bumper, but as we're going to run a skid plate under the oil pan and control arms, no front bumper, but add bullbars, the ends of the frame have to be where they belong. Stepped sections of styrene stock were rough-shaped and heavily glued in place.

DSCN7770.JPG.0d3fcad458e32bd0c91247196c2bacd6.JPG

After initial trimming and shaping of the new frame ends, the frame is beginning to closely resemble the reference shots I've collected. Steering assembly with both backing plates removed shown above. Holes in spindles for stub axles have been filled with round stock, will be re-drilled to establish final ride height.

DSCN7773.JPG.70a2374e6ec964cdc4555361e445fc18.JPG

 

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/6/2022 at 6:59 PM, Joe Nunes said:

Real nice work thus far on your model, Bill...

 

On 11/7/2022 at 2:07 PM, Bullybeef said:

Tidy work Bill...

 

On 11/7/2022 at 2:14 PM, Calb56 said:

Looking at all your build threads, including this one your work is phenomenal. I appreciate the obsession for detail...

Thanks for your interest and comments, gentlemen. They're much appreciated.  :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/9/2022 at 7:46 PM, Bainford said:

Nice work Bill. Everything is coming along great. Dig that deck lid work. I appreciate the effort for authenticity. Very cool project. 

 

On 11/11/2022 at 10:33 AM, dino246gt said:

Very impressive work! I'm watching and enjoying the ride! Cheers.

 

 

On 11/11/2022 at 10:43 AM, slusher said:

Excellent work Bill!

 

On 11/11/2022 at 10:52 AM, Foxer said:

Enjoying a Pro at work  😄

 

On 11/11/2022 at 11:26 AM, ewetwo said:

Looking great Bill.

Thanks to all you guys for your interest and comments.   :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, cobraman said:

I think ( hope ) you finish this one. It's way cool.

Thanks again, Ray. They've kinda extended the deadline past the end of the year, so as I'm not going to do much on any other builds, there's a chance this one will at least get paint, decals, and be sitting on its wheels before I have to pack everything up. I've already got the paint, all the parts and decals, and I'm trying to not get too carried away with much else...though I still need to address some kind of rollover structure.

21 hours ago, Rick L said:

Thanks for sharing Bill.👍

Thanks for your interest.   :D

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Assembled the modded spindles and lower control-arm unit to the chassis, keeping the posable steering setup the diecast came with...

DSCN7775.JPG.ed449dbe73d4db98f058577145033ad0.JPG

...so I could put her on stands to establish the front ride height (which will be lower than this); note the white dot on the spindle, which is the plug in the original stub axle hole...

DSCN7781.JPG.db2196aa34c5ad4b34373f35e7e6d90c.JPG

...and then mark the position of the new stub axle hole (from the ground) on the uprights (which will be radius of the front tire).

DSCN7777.JPG.2f99d2d55903ae0ff16b8dccb949b09c.JPG

Once that's done and the spindles are drilled, with 1/16" brass stub axles inserted, I can put her on her front wheels, then level the butt to match, and figure the rear spring hanger heights. And once that's done, I can work on the body, interior, and chassis separately as time permits.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...