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No matter which red paint you decide on remember the basic primer color will have an effect on the appearance of the topcoat. I would suggest either a good white primer or one of the red primers that are offered by different paint suppliers. I would also try and stay with one brand of paint from the primer all the way to the last clear coat of paint. This should minimize any interaction between the paint products. 

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2 hours ago, espo said:

No matter which red paint you decide on remember the basic primer color will have an effect on the appearance of the topcoat. I would suggest either a good white primer or one of the red primers that are offered by different paint suppliers. I would also try and stay with one brand of paint from the primer all the way to the last clear coat of paint. This should minimize any interaction between the paint products. 

I agree to a point.

The ‘62 Chrysler and ‘59 Edsel that I posted above are Duplicolor through and through.

But I use Duplicolor primer under, and Duplicolor clear over MCW and Scale Finishes lacquers all of the time with no issues whatsoever.

But I agree.

Don’t go in blind.

Be sure that your confident that the materials you're using are compatible before making the leap.

 

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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38 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I agree to a point.

The ‘62 Chrysler and ‘59 Edsel that I posted above are Duplicolor through and through.

But I use Duplicolor primer under, and Duplicolor clear over MCW and Scale Finishes lacquers all of the time with no issues whatsoever.

But I agree.

Don’t go in blind.

Be sure that your confident that the materials your using are compatible before making the leap.

 

 

Steve

Like yourself, there are more than a few builders that achieve great success mixing different brands and in some case types of paints. On the other hand, we see builders often posting that they are having a painting issue of some sort and it seems that just as often there are different paints involved. This is the reason for my suggestion. 

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Tamiya LP 7 is a very bright pure red mild lacquer bottled paint,that is to say not as hot as automotive lacquers. And the X7 is the acrylic version of the same color. As others have said of their choices, not sure if it's the brightest. But these have no blue or orange or choral bias in them. They're a pure straight up bright red.

Edited by Dave G.
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1 hour ago, espo said:

Like yourself, there are more than a few builders that achieve great success mixing different brands and in some case types of paints. On the other hand, we see builders often posting that they are having a painting issue of some sort and it seems that just as often there are different paints involved. This is the reason for my suggestion. 

Agreed.

This is always your safest bet.

Mixing brands can be a problem, but as long as you do your research, There is always room to move outside of the box.

 

Personally, I don't like having to keep a half dozen different primers and clears on hand depending upon the paint that I plan on using for a particular project, and it's been my experience to date that Duplicolor primer is safe, (at least in my estimation) to be used under virtually any paint, and as long as I'm using an automotive acrylic lacquer paint, Duplicolor clear has never taken me by surprise either.

 

In my opinion, GOOD paint is most often the key to success.

Using those weird big box store concoctions, where you're often not even sure whether you're dealing with lacquer or enamel, are very often at the root of people's problems.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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Here are a few suggestions - Dodge Viper Red, Corvette Rally Red, Ferrari Rosso Corsa (pre ‘97), Ford Vermillion Red, Ford Fleet Red (used on Thunderbirds and Mustangs 1956 - 1971 (also known as Fiesta Red)), and GM Victory Red (also known as Fire Red and Blaze Red).  If you Google the colours along with the word code you’ll get the info you need to get someone like MCW, Zero or Splash to mix you some for airbrushing.

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