Building the Black Widow *Updated 3/03/09*

[Len Carsner]

Here we have the first of two updates tonight on the Building the Black Widow. We'll cover mainly the interior pieces tonight and get into the chassis and drivetrain later in the week.

BTW - you'll notice the images are now watermarked. I'm afraid we've been forced to make that choice as the pictures were being taken from here and posted on other boards with no attribution to the authors.

We don't mind people spreading the words and images but at least let others know where they came from.

Be sure to check the next post ater this one for the second half of the update.

And now, on with the show....

I like to tape all the parts that need primer or paint to one piece of cardboard and spry them all at once. Same goes for the chassis in this case which gets primered as part of the same operation. Not the piece of brass rod stuck up the transmission tail shaft. Makes a pretty good one-piece paint stand so you can get good coverage and at the same time not have to paint you fingers.

Once I painted the gas tank with steel metalizer, I mask it off in preparation for painting this chassis insert to match the rest of the chassis.

I concocted a mixture of Flat Red and Rust to emulate the bright oxide red found on the underside of the chassis which was then applied with an airbrush. I decided the rear axle snout needed the same sort of shade of rusty red. This time the paint was applied with a brush and mixed 50/50 on a piece of household wax paper as shown here.

Note in this view, that though I've painted the topside of the interior floor flat black, the underside is a 50/50 mix of Flat Red and Rust. There's a reason for that as the bottle shaped area (actually the transmission tunnel) shows through on like-shaped opening in the chassis and needs to match the rest of the chassis underside. The Mini-MIte drill bit is pointing to the two holes needing to be drilled out to accommodate the roll bar registration pins as mentioned earlier.

Whether you paint the interior floor first or not, for the Black Widow version, you'll need to construct the four-point roll bar. There are locator pins on the bottom of each upright that fit into locator holes in the floor. I suggest taping down the vertical hoop and then one at a time, glue the angle support bars to the uprights as shown here.

After priming the interior parts like the seat insert, inside door panels, dashboard, steering column and wheel, those parts got a generous coating of Metalizer Magnesium. Once dry, the parts getting decals applied in a later step, were coated with High-Gloss Clear. Remember, waterside decals stick pretty well to a gloss surface, not so well to flat-finish surfaces.

Continued in next post.

LC

[Len Carsner]

Second half of todays update.

Shown here are some of the tools and supplies needed to properly apply waterside decals. They include sewing scissors, a clean brush, Microsoft Micro Set and Micro shallow bowl with lukewarm water, hobby knife, tweezers and a cotton swab. The sewing scissors are very important as they allow for trimming really delicate markings up close and personal as shown here.

Once the front seat cushions were primed and painted with Metalizer Magnesium, the seat upholstery decals were applied as shown here. Always get in the habit of applying Micro Set to the affected areas first before applying the waterslide decals. Once blotted dry, follow that up with a light coat of Micro Sol to insure that each decal draws down and conforms to any irregular surfaces.

I find BareMetal foil has a secondary use as a making agent. Here I'm masking the portion of the interior door panel that was earlier painted silver. Once the material is burnished, trimmed along the seams etc., the excess BMF was removed in preparation for painting the remainder of the panel with matte black finish.

Here we see interior parts including side panels, seat and dash board fully masked in preparation for painting them matte black.

The interior side panels having been painted metalizer magnesium and matte black and are now ready for the upholstery pattern decal to be applied. Setting solution was applied in the appropriate area and then the wetted decal was applied in place as shown here. I suggest using a cotton swab to push the decal in and around tight areas like the arm rest and door hardware.

Using BareMetal Chrome foil, small pieces were used to highlight the door hardware. Again use a cotton swab to push the BMF in and around the individual handles and knobs, then trim out the excess foil with a fresh hobby knife. Be extra careful removing the excess foil so as not to accidently lift the decals.

Later in the week we hope to show the completed interiors, pointing out the differences between the race and street versions plus the start of the chassis and drivetrain.

Thanks for watching.

Len C.

[SteveG]

Excellent update, keep them coming Len and Bill. As far as the floor pan underside, I'm assuming plain old Red-Oxide primer would work just as well if you have it available. I think I still have a nearly full can from the last 57 Chevy I built.

-Steve

[Len Carsner]

Excellent update, keep them coming Len and Bill. As far as the floor pan underside, I'm assuming plain old Red-Oxide primer would work just as well if you have it available. I think I still have a nearly full can from the last 57 Chevy I built.

-Steve

Regular red-oxide primer should be fine. I'm custom mixing mine to replicate the underside finish on a restoration I've been watching online. It's orangey-red with black frame rails and grey colored springs and control arms. May not be prototypically accurate but it looks good. Hopefully I'll have my chassis done this week and pictures to show by weeks end.

Len C.

[Bill Coulter]

Excellent update, keep them coming Len and Bill. As far as the floor pan underside, I'm assuming plain old Red-Oxide primer would work just as well if you have it available. I think I still have a nearly full can from the last 57 Chevy I built.

-Steve

Hi Steve...

I'm using the SEDCO guide for many of the details on this kit. But the guide is in B/W so Randy Derr loaned me a photo album where he'd thoroughly photographed a cloned BW (Jack Smith No. 47) which I'm using for color reference. I mixed the red and rust to closely resemble what was done with that car. The one thing we're finding our pretty quickly is that today there is no single proto-typical BW. I'm convinced that no single original BW exists. That's no surprise when you think about it. I doubt that the handful of BWs that SEDCO built were all exactly the same. They were after all purpose built race cars based on a production model. But when SEDCO was finished the BW was a completely different animal than the entry-level 150 Utility Sedan.

BC

[SteveG]

Hi Steve...

I'm using the SEDCO guide for many of the details on this kit. But the guide is in B/W so Randy Derr loaned me a photo album where he'd thoroughly photographed a cloned BW (Jack Smith No. 47) which I'm using for color reference. I mixed the red and rust to closely resemble what was done with that car. The one thing we're finding our pretty quickly is that today there is no single proto-typical BW. I'm convinced that no single original BW exists. That's no surprise when you think about it. I doubt that the handful of BWs that SEDCO built were all exactly the same. They were after all purpose built race cars based on a production model. But when SEDCO was finished the BW was a completely different animal than the entry-level 150 Utility Sedan.

BC

Bill,

Here's a photo of the rear floor area of a beautifully restored 57 Bel Air I took years ago. It's been a while since I researched these cars and I'm talking about stock 57 Chevy's not the SEDCO prepped cars. I'm 99% sure the color represents the factory applied primer which is generally called Red-oxide. Of course no restorer these days would actually use lacquer primer. They would use their mixing system to make the color in paint. There's probably no standard color either as the Red-oxide primer was probably supplied by several paint manufacturers and they all probably had their own shade which could have been more Red or more Brown then the other guys. I guess you can say that we're both right. My suggestion to the builder is to use what you have available that can best match the color.

-Steve

[bigphoto]

Boy Howdy!!!! I can see the Project X car in its Hollywood Knight configuration at the end of the tunnel Woo Hoo

[Len Carsner]

Bill,

Here's a photo of the rear floor area of a beautifully restored 57 Bel Air I took years ago. It's been a while since I researched these cars and I'm talking about stock 57 Chevy's not the SEDCO prepped cars. I'm 99% sure the color represents the factory applied primer which is generally called Red-oxide. Of course no restorer these days would actually use lacquer primer. They would use their mixing system to make the color in paint. There's probably no standard color either as the Red-oxide primer was probably supplied by several paint manufacturers and they all probably had their own shade which could have been more Red or more Brown then the other guys. I guess you can say that we're both right. My suggestion to the builder is to use what you have available that can best match the color.

-Steve

That's the look I'm going for on the underside of my car. I hope to show it to the board later this week.

Len C.

Edited February 9, 2009 by Len Carsner

[Custom Hearse]

It's looking good guy's! Keep up the great work!

[brewsterg6]

Len and Bill... These builds are coming along really nicely! I'm also looking forward to taking a crack at this kit...

Here's a link to my photo bucket, as I had some underside shots of a 100 point car that was E-bayed back when I built my hardtop.

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s84/bre...rdtop/?start=40

Edited February 11, 2009 by brewsterg6

[Len Carsner]

Bill... This build is coming along really nicely! I'm also looking forward to taking a crack at this kit...

Here's a link to my photo bucket, as I had some underside shots of a 100 point car that was E-bayed back when I built my hardtop.

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s84/bre...rdtop/?start=40

Thanks for the reference pics! BTW - nice car!

[Len Carsner]

Here's the latest update on our Black Widow build and things are coming together well. Tonight we'll show you the finished interior for the race version as well as the engine for the same car. Later in the week I'll post pistures of the interior and engine from my stock 150 sedan and maybe, just maybe, another surprise!

Here the typical Black Widow race car interior is nearly complete. Note the placement of the matching seat and door panel fabric, the four-point roll racing roll cage and the spartan but detailed steering wheel/dashboard including the under-dash tachometer.

Firestone was the only tire provider for NASCAR in 1957. Though white side wall lettering might not have been proto-typical back-in-the-day, it does add that additional pizzaz to an otherwide spartan black donut. Here, Shabo dry-transfer, rub-off lettering makes for simple application. Clean the fire side wall with paint thinner. Line up the lettering on the sheet with the appropriate spot on the side wall. Then burnish the lettering onto the tire with something suitable like this wooden clay-working tool. The results as shown on the tires in the background are worth the effort.

This is a rare and invaluable piece of reference material for accurately building and detailing a Black Widow replica from the new Revell 1957 Chevrolet 150 Utility Sedan/Black Widow kit. Virtually every aspect of the legendary, iconic and mysterious Black Widow is presented in great detail. If you're really serious about building a BW replica getting access to this vintage publication (up close and personal or electronically) will be well worth you time and energy.

Which ever version of this Revell kit you are building the detail painting for the chassis, driveline and front/rear suspension is pretty much the same. Oxide Red, various metallic shades and flat/matte black will do the job just fine.

Part number 352 is to be attached to the Fuel Injection Plenum but first you need to remove this hunk of plated styrene being pointed out in this picture. If took me a while to figure out that it was the part on the end of the "knockout" that was need instead of this thing that looks like an over-sized thermos bottle. What is it you ask? This extra piece of material makes sure the flowing hot styrene when forging it's way through the tooling innards completely fills out the part cavity.

Just some of the stuff I'd recommend for use for applying decals to this 57 Black Widow Fuel Injection engine from the new Revell kit. You can see the very intricate and delicate detailing on this newly-tooled power plant. Likewise, the number of tiny decals will test your dexterity and patience. At my age I have to use some 2X reading glasses to see some of these demure elements. Remember to only apply water-slide decals to gloss surfaces. I recommend applying a dab of Microscale Micro Set first to the location and then lay the decal down in place as shown here. Once blotted dry, follow that up with a dab of Microscale Micro Sol to assure the further adhesion of these decals.

Revell maintains high standards once again on newly tooled kit parts like the Fuel Injection 283 engine from their new 1957 Black Widow/150 Utility Sedan kit. This example is built straight from-the-box with the addition of a variety of factory-correct colors, matte and gloss black and metallic finishes ranging from gunmetal to aluminum plate Metalizer. The Corvette script shown here on the right valve cover is straight from the decal sheet. Pretty much everything but the smell of pump gas and exhaust fumes is here just as it comes from the kit box. This engine is just screaming for some TLC detailing.

With all the intricate attention to details on this new 283 Fuel Injection engine included in the Revell 1957 Black Widow-150 Utility Sedan all it take is patient and methodic painting and decal application to get a very nice out-of-the-box powerplant.

In this shot the engine is in position between the front frame rails and the steering gear has been properly positioned. The kit engine features realistic cushioned motor mounts in front and an angled bracket which notches into place in the front of the chassis as shown here.

That's all for now, keep checking back for more updates, leading up to the final reveal in about two weeks.

Len C.

[SteveG]

Very nice update guys !!! One question, how were the seat belts done?

Steve

[Len Carsner]

Very nice update guys !!! One question, how were the seat belts done?

Steve

I'll leave that for Bill to answer. He's adding lots of extra details not included with the kit where as I'm doing it completely box stock.

He'll be going more in-depth about his modifications in an article he's doing for MCM which will show what modifications and/or extra details you'll need to make an accurate Black Widow stock car.

Thanks for the comments.

[Fletch]

Excellent work guys. the kit certainly looks to be even higher in quality then recent Revell releases. With the cost of kits going up every time the Hobby Shops restock, guess I should make an appointment with the loan officer at the Credit Union. That way I'll be ready when this jewel is available.

[Casey]

I'm assuming this is a pre-release kit supplied to you buy Revell, correct?

At any rate, it looks fantastic and this one'll definitely be on my "to-buy" list when it hits store shelves. I love the upholstery decals and the three-speed transmission, as it'll be perfect for kitbashing other GM products.

Just another reason I pledge my allegience to Revell.

[Art Anderson]

My research tells me the basic 1957 Chevrolet 150 Utility Sedan did not come with a back seat. The idea was to provide a utilitarian vehicle to be used for commercial duties much like a sedan delivery. Leaving out the back seat provided an abundance of room for just about anything an over-the-road salesman, utility company meter reader or general delivery guy would need for example. I guess that's the reason they called it the Utility Sedan.

Lyle...you have far too much free time on your hands. Somewhere around here I have an image of "Captain Grumpy". What a shame if it were made public.

Bill,

Your research is correct. The Utility Sedan was a carryover of the earlier "Business Coupe" concept, that being a "salesman's car". As such, the 150 Utility Sedan didn't even have window risers in the rear, from my research several years ago, the quarter windows were permanently fixed in a closed position.

There were but two engine options available as RPO's, the 235 cid inline 6, and the baseline 265cid V8 with 2bbl carburetor (the engine that was painted yellow). Transmission options were 3spd stick, and Powerglide. Radio, heater and defroster were extra cost options, interior appointments were sparse. Even sound-deadening insulation was pretty much non-existent, to drive the costs down to a low level.

Art

[Custom Hearse]

Len, You and Bill are doing an excellent job on this! I'm definitely going to get this kit soon! Looking forward to your next update!

[mrglubaum]

What would be the most correct 6-banger to use if one wanted to do an engine swap? AMT '51 Chevy, maybe? Revell '41 Chevy pickup? Neither?

The only correct engine six for this kit would be the one from the AMT '60 Chevy stock pickup kit. The '51 is close, but has the wrong valve cover. The '60 pickup air filter is wrong, but a correct one could be cobbled together fairly easily.

Lee

[Tom Jackson]

Any Updates? I can't wait till i get my hands on one

[polandmob]

i cant wait till mine comes looks like a great kit. nice build anymore pics?

[Len Carsner]

Glad to see everyone is so anxious for updates. Since I'm building the street version and haven't contributed much to the overall build I thought I'd post a couple of my pix.

But first, a little lesson on 1957 V8 engines.

On the Spotlight Board it was mentioned that the 265 V8 engine year was the only engine (other than the six) that was available in the utility sedan for 1957. It was also said that the engine was painted yellow, not the typical Chevt red/orange color. Having never heard about this I decided to do a little research. Here's what I've found:

Here's a picture that Bill Coulter forwarded to me. He's not sure where it came from, so credit where credit is due to the original poster. This shows the yellow 265 engine in a 1957 Chevy Utility Sedan. According to judging rules at http://www.emarkay.com/joutline.html the 265 was available only with a two barrel car, single exhaust, and manual transmission. Also the air cleaner would have no snorkel. The engine would have been painted yellow from start of production to early Novenber after which it was painted the same color as other Chevy V8 engines.

Contrary to what most believe the 150 Utility Sedan was available with any regular production engine from 1957, meaning anything from the straight six to the 283 fuelie motor (records show 22 such units were built) could be had. Since the engine in the kit is a four barrel with dual exhaust and automatic transmission it must be assumed its a 283 C.I.D. engine. There had been some question as to the accuracy of the kit engine, hopefully this will put that to rest.

Here are the main components of the chassis. I've tried to duplicate the reddish-orange primer of a restored car I have pictures of during its restoration. While the callouts on the instructions call for black and silver for most items I've used Testors Metalizers plus various shades of black in order to give the chassis a little "pop".

The assembled chassis looks pretty much like I had hoped, looking a lot like the restoration photos I have for reference.

I planned to paint my car a color close to 1957 Matador Red. I used Duplicolor aerosol paint that came close, but is a bit darker than I hoped. Still, it came out well and has a great shine.

I couldn't resist the urge to set the painted body down over the interior and onto the chassis. This car is building up really well and Revell has the look of the full-size car nailed. Now its on to Bare Metal for the moldings and exterior ornamentation and we'll be wrapping this one up.

Sorry I didn't have more pictures tp post, but my photography skills have "gone south" over the past year and the shots of the four barrel engine and my interior were not worthy of posting. I'll catch up in a later post.

We should have another update ready by the weekend, then the wrap-up will follow shortly after that.

Thanks, and keep those comments coming.

Len Carsner

Edited February 23, 2009 by Len Carsner

[SteveG]

Contrary to what most believe the 150 Utility Sedan was available with any regular production engine from 1957, meaning anything from the straight six to the 283 fuelie motor (records show 22 such units were built) could be had. Since the engine in the kit is a four barrel with dual exhaust and automatic transmission it must be assumed its a 283 C.I.D. engine. There had been some question as to the accuracy of the kit engine, hopefully this will put that to rest.

Nice work on the street version Len, The 283ci Turbo-Fire 4bbI V-8 engine your refering to is commonly refered to as the "Powerpack 283" which had 220 hp. Here are all the other engine choice for the '57 Chevy line up.

235ci Blue Flame lbbl 6cyl-140 hp

265ci Turbo-Fire 2bbl V-8-162 hp

283ci Super Turbo-Fire 2bbI V-8-185 hp

283ci Turbo-Fire 2x4bbl V-8-245 hp

283ci Turbo-Fire 2x4bbl V-8-270 hp

283ci Turbo-Fire FI V-8-250 hp

283ci Turbo-Fire FI V-8-283 hp (solid lifter)

There's a Ton of great information out there on the 55-57 Chevy's. Here's an excellent source for more information.

Tri-Five.com

-Steve

[Custom Hearse]

Looks awesome Len! I like that you decided to forgo the usual black and white paint scheme. The red really sets it off! Looking forward to your next update!

[ramonesblues]

there is another difference in California '57's. Mine is a California built car with the one piece tubing frame. The other frames were channel welded together to form a box. The square tube frames are much cleaner and are highly sought after .