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This is a 3D printed body that will need a chassis and interior . No chassis came close to fitting with out a lot of alterations so making the chassis in pieces as I go. Im at the interior plate now and thats where the front chassis rails will mount. This body will need clean up to smooth out the marks and door and hood lines will need to be deeper. Bed floor will also need detail added.  I will go to the parts boxes many times on this one. 😄

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Edited by BIGTRUCK
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24 minutes ago, espo said:

Wonder if the chassis from either the early '50's Chevrolet 3100 or the '49 Ford F-1 would be a viable basic chassis? 

Its the frame arches at the rear end. I found a frame tbat would work close enough with the 4x4 goods.

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Nice job printing that! I used a copy of the frame from the Revell Jeep Honcho kit. Mine is a resin casting that I made and is a shorter than stock wheelbase though.  I look forward to your progress. FYI: That printing is a 1954 or later cab. The large rear window and 3 bar grill were introduced in ‘54 or ‘55,  and those rounded front fenders appeared in 1950 IIRC.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/166153-my-willys-pickup/

Edited by NOBLNG
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4 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Nice job printing that! I used a copy of the frame from the Revell Jeep Honcho kit. Mine is a resin casting that I made and is a shorter than stock wheelbase though.  I look forward to your progress. FYI: That printing is a 1954 or later cab. The large rear window and 3 bar grill were introduced in ‘54 or ‘55,  and those rounded front fenders appeared in 1950 IIRC.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/166153-my-willys-pickup/

I didnt print it, I bought and it listed as s '46 on ebay.. the rear bed floor would need to be removed and replaced for any chassis to fit, its pretty deep. I can do it , its just easier for me ( getting too old😄)to piece build around it.

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I was working on the back area and put a crack in the lower cab wall, the crack started to appear wet and had a chemical smell. This is my first experience with a 3D body, is this something any one else saw or heard of? After making the repair the primer would not adhere around that area..so I  cleaned it with strong soap solution and it seems fine now. Now back to smoothing out the body. 

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Edited by BIGTRUCK
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  • BIGTRUCK changed the title to Willys Jeep truck

I have no experience with printed parts so I don’t know what’s going on with that crack? I will say you’ve got your work cut out for you smoothing out that body. It does have a good basic shape though. PM me if you need any detail pics of a 1:1. Good luck with her.👍

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  • 3 weeks later...

I was getting lazy building this jeep but then I started laying in a new floor . I had a bunch of scrap evergreen and the next thing you know I sparked some life to get it done. Fabricate a old homemade boom. Once I get everything done and in position I will loose that tailgate.

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This is what I came up with up to now. There were small running boards (if I remember right) came in  a 66 AMT Lincoln kit, I made a mold of them , cast a few and they fit perfectly in front and behind the rear tires. Cobbled up a pipe bumper and completed the boom assembly. Now to get that body as smooth as I can and try to get it done this year .

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Edited by BIGTRUCK
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7 hours ago, Ulf said:

 Next kit from Moebius ??

😁That would have saved me alot of time and I would have missed all the fun and aggravation. But it would be a neat kit to have. MPC came out with a later (maybe a 1968 Jeep) version called a Commando.

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My good friend's older brother had one with the split windshield and it had a small block Chevy motor with a 4 barrel and headers. our family had a later, one piece windshield very stock one with the factory flathead 4 of 6 (can't remember), stock tires and wheels and an array of PTO goodies. It had a lot of extra shifters.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This build has been a nightmare from day 1 when a crack developed on the back of the cab. I fixed the crack and then noticed a wet spot next to the repair....another crack. After chasing 1 more wet spot and another coat of primer I let it sit for about a week. No more problems so I continued the build. I drilled 2 pin sized holes for levers and the next day wet spots appeared. I contacted the person who did the 3D printing and he said the leak means in areas it has not fully cured. My options are put the body out in the sun so the UV can do its thing to complete the process or hit it with portable UV light. Sun is not really an option where I live maybe until next April, I dont have a portable UV source that would help so Im boxing it up until next spring before trying it again. Besides the leaks getting all over the body and making the primer soft heres what I found out about the problem on a 3D site:

 

Why Do Resin 3D Prints Leak/Explode/Pop?

Resin 3D prints can leak or explode due to uncured resin being trapped inside the model. This uncured resin is trapped inside but is still slowly curing and expanding, so it produces extra pressure inside the model until it finally finds a way out. This can either leak, explode, or pop so it can be very dangerous.

 

So until the next update on a sunny day next year, on to another different build..😁

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2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Sorry to hear about the issues you’re finding. Instead of putting it in a box, how about putting it in a south facing window if you have one and let it sit there? Might help the curing?🤷‍♂️

I picked ip a UV Lamp on Amazon , I may be back in business soon..

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