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Ford 5.0 Coyote


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All of the Coyotes in kits are marked 1/25. I'm using one from the 2014 Revell Mustang in the Tamiya GT4 kit along with most of the Revell under hood area and honestly you can't tell the difference. If you really want a 1/24 one you'll have to get a 3d printed on. Texas 3D Customs list his as 1/24 but you can find him here and get more information. 

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I have that exact 3d print file.   The 1:1 block is 747 millimeters long.   If I print it at 1/24 scale it is 29.88 mm long.   If I print it at 1/25 scale it is 31.12 mm long.  That is a difference of 1.24 mm (.04 inches) in length between the two scales.  If you set one of each on a table an inch apart my old eyes could never pick out the difference.  
 

I have been 3D printing different engines and I always go on line to get the 1:1 size of any block I am printing so my block will be the correct size.  When I compare to the blocks from any kit I have never seen a kit block that was very close to correct.  Being off by 2 to 3 millimeters is what I have found. 

Edited by Jiml0001
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1 hour ago, Roggan said:

Thanks guys, very good tips. It will probably be Revell's Mustang engine.
Now I just need a suitable transaxle.

Texas 3d Customs also has a transaxle that should be close, it's made for round bellhousings but the flange could be modified or replaced easily.

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8 hours ago, Jiml0001 said:

I have that exact 3d print file.   The 1:1 block is 747 millimeters long.   If I print it at 1/24 scale it is 29.88 mm long.   If I print it at 1/25 scale it is 31.12 mm long.  That is a difference of 1.24 mm (.04 inches) in length between the two scales.  If you set one of each on a table an inch apart my old eyes could never pick out the difference.  
 

I have been 3D printing different engines and I always go on line to get the 1:1 size of any block I am printing so my block will be the correct size.  When I compare to the blocks from any kit I have never seen a kit block that was very close to correct.  Being off by 2 to 3 millimeters is what I have found. 

That's exactly how I do it. Designers often say their files are in a certain scale, but if you math it out, I find they are often a little bit off. No worries though. Re-size, print, and they usually turn out fantastic.

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On 11/3/2022 at 5:36 PM, iamsuperdan said:

This one is available for 3D printing over on the Cults3D site. The designer has a Tremec transmission designed to go with it too.

_Ford-Coyote_7.jpg

 

I use some of his models, but they are not quite right, I spend quite a bit of time fixing them, now it might print fine as is but good enough is not good enough for me. My Coyote comes with a TR6060 as a T56 seems inappropriate, I am also working on the ZF autobox for it, the Ford tranny is just a ZF 6/8hp with a larger input shaft.

Edited by Texas_3D_Customs
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On 11/4/2022 at 12:17 AM, Jiml0001 said:

I have that exact 3d print file.   The 1:1 block is 747 millimeters long.   If I print it at 1/24 scale it is 29.88 mm long.   If I print it at 1/25 scale it is 31.12 mm long.  That is a difference of 1.24 mm (.04 inches) in length between the two scales.  If you set one of each on a table an inch apart my old eyes could never pick out the difference.  
 

I have been 3D printing different engines and I always go on line to get the 1:1 size of any block I am printing so my block will be the correct size.  When I compare to the blocks from any kit I have never seen a kit block that was very close to correct.  Being off by 2 to 3 millimeters is what I have found. 

I think you have your numbers backwards as 1:24 should be larger, now my 5.0's are referenced to my actual Coyote in my mudstain, but those numbers sound about right.

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On 11/4/2022 at 7:11 AM, Fat Brian said:

Texas 3d Customs also has a transaxle that should be close, it's made for round bellhousings but the flange could be modified or replaced easily.

I could mate the Mendeola Transaxle I make for the GM line to fit the Modular bolt pattern, I just didn't think it was a desired combo.

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20 hours ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:

I could mate the Mendeola Transaxle I make for the GM line to fit the Modular bolt pattern, I just didn't think it was a desired combo.

What I personally would love is a full independent rear end with the transaxle, A arms, axle shafts, and brakes all together. Basically a drop in unit to convert about anything to mid engine. It would need to come in two widths to account for the body size of what it's going in and the offset of the wheels going on and have bellhousing options for common swaps.

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1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

What I personally would love is a full independent rear end with the transaxle, A arms, axle shafts, and brakes all together. Basically a drop in unit to convert about anything to mid engine. It would need to come in two widths to account for the body size of what it's going in and the offset of the wheels going on and have bellhousing options for common swaps.

So that's a lot easier said than done, it would get very chassis specific and I would almost guarantee I would get lots of returns or things like hey I need this at X mm not what you have. It happens so much already and the stuff I make is pretty universal. And if I did this the brakes would not be included as it would be made to be compatible with my wheel system and you could just buy the brakes of your choice, and really wouldn't matter if you used my wheels or not

Edited by Texas_3D_Customs
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7 hours ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:

So that's a lot easier said than done, it would get very chassis specific and I would almost guarantee I would get lots of returns or things like hey I need this at X mm not what you have. It happens so much already and the stuff I make is pretty universal. And if I did this the brakes would not be included as it would be made to be compatible with my wheel system and you could just buy the brakes of your choice, and really wouldn't matter if you used my wheels or not

Believe me, I understand that it's a difficult thing to do. Maybe if I can figure out Blender I'll come up with something. 

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16 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

Believe me, I understand that it's a difficult thing to do. Maybe if I can figure out Blender I'll come up with something. 

I wouldn't use blender I would use Fusion or another CAD program. Setting up constraints based on actual data points would make a much more accurate and precise model, plus if you find an issue later on and have design capture on you change a previous measurement and it updates the whole design.

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3 hours ago, Texas_3D_Customs said:

I wouldn't use blender I would use Fusion or another CAD program. Setting up constraints based on actual data points would make a much more accurate and precise model, plus if you find an issue later on and have design capture on you change a previous measurement and it updates the whole design.

Ok, I'll check it out.

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20 hours ago, iamsuperdan said:

I haven't downloaded it yet, but it looks good to me.

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/ford-coyote-5-0-v8-engine

 

 

If any of you do download it and need accurate measurements for an actual Coyote LMK, I know I have mine scaled properly and his models are close to 1:10 scale but not quite accurate. I can get measurements off my car which is how I made mine correct. I will say this is by far the best low cost Coyote model available, but if you have modeling experience you could fix the few errors in the details.

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