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Lindberg (and the new AMT re-pop '66 Chevelle SS


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I did a search and gave up so now starting this question thread about the Subject car.

I'm in the completion stage of the Lindberg kit I've had for some time.  Trying to get the body on the completed chassis with the interior and try as I might I can get one side completely down on the chassis in the front on one side but when I try to get the other side down it just won't go.  If I try to get the opposite side down first same problem.  I just can't see what is keeping it from going down.

Does anyone who has built this kit in the past remember if you had this issue.

It's frustrating and I'm about to take a hammer to the whole thing.....well not really but I sure feel like doing it😃

Anyone got something for me??

Thanks, (old man)Mike

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14 hours ago, Plowboy said:

Try sliding the rear section of chassis in first,(both sides at the same time) and work your way forward.

Thanks Roger, it's exactly how I did it.  I could get on side in front down but not the other. So then I tried it the opposite way and still no luck and got frustrated and gave up. 

Gonna try to see it I can get both sides in front then work back.  

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I'm not sure if the problem you are having is the same as I encountered, but I'll share what I did that worked for me and you can see if it is any help for you. The body sides are such that they hold the chassis very tightly in place. I have used wooden coffee stir sticks as ply bars to spread the body apart enough for the chassis to drop in. As Plowboy mentioned, starting at the rear seems to work the best. The rear quarters behind the wheel well openings are where I have started to use the wooden pry bars. The next area is the front edge of the rear wheel well opening. Once past that the chassis will usually slip in until you get to the front wheel well opening. The problem here seems to be the front edge of the wheel opening and the forward section of the front fenders. The chassis and inner fender wells are wide and getting the front portion of the fenders spread wide enough to get chassis in place. You mention some problems getting the chassis down inside the body. A couple of places that I have had problems is the interference between the distributor and the firewall, especially if you have used a larger aftermarket distributor. Some other areas to check are the top of the frame and the inner fender clearance, upper A arms and inner fenders, The radiator core support usually needs some reshaping where it meets the inside of the fenders.  I do a lot of trial fitting of the chassis and body before any final painting is done as I have often had to do some sanding and reshaping until everything lines up. 

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3 hours ago, tbill said:

I’ve built 4 of these kits, and honestly don’t remember having any issues getting the body on. I can’t help but wonder if maybe you’ve got something installed slightly ‘off’ causing an interference?

 

2 hours ago, espo said:

I'm not sure if the problem you are having is the same as I encountered, but I'll share what I did that worked for me and you can see if it is any help for you. The body sides are such that they hold the chassis very tightly in place. I have used wooden coffee stir sticks as ply bars to spread the body apart enough for the chassis to drop in. As Plowboy mentioned, starting at the rear seems to work the best. The rear quarters behind the wheel well openings are where I have started to use the wooden pry bars. The next area is the front edge of the rear wheel well opening. Once past that the chassis will usually slip in until you get to the front wheel well opening. The problem here seems to be the front edge of the wheel opening and the forward section of the front fenders. The chassis and inner fender wells are wide and getting the front portion of the fenders spread wide enough to get chassis in place. You mention some problems getting the chassis down inside the body. A couple of places that I have had problems is the interference between the distributor and the firewall, especially if you have used a larger aftermarket distributor. Some other areas to check are the top of the frame and the inner fender clearance, upper A arms and inner fenders, The radiator core support usually needs some reshaping where it meets the inside of the fenders.  I do a lot of trial fitting of the chassis and body before any final painting is done as I have often had to do some sanding and reshaping until everything lines up. 

OK guys, got er down without too much damage (mostly to the foiling).  And yes, the body sides are really tight on the chassis. All the things you said David are so true.

Thanks for the comments.

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