Nostalgia Fuel Dragster--Blower Manifold (01/28/23)

[AmericanMuscleFan]

This is great work Daniel, your brass steering box is awesome my friend !   I see you have a giant dime too ! 😉

[Tortuga Kustomz]

On 11/26/2022 at 2:36 AM, Straightliner59 said:

Thanks again, Marcos. Balsa is the only thing I ever build on. I draw my guidelines--chassis centerline, axle centers, overall width and length, and, with dragsters, I usually draw the outline of the bottom of the chassis and the crossmembers, for use in layout. Simple lines work, I just use a single line to denote the centerlines of things added to the chassis. I can pin tubing or strips of other stock, to determine ride height. It's worked great, for almost 40 years! I solder on it, too. Never even set off a smoke detector. Give it a shot. I think you'll like it! Oh, and get yourself a bunch of straight pins, too. 

I'm no pro at moldmaking, either. Since I only make parts for myself, or maybe a friend, I just go for the most basic, quickest way to get it done! 🙂 After I gave up on the rubber curing and dug out the part and cleaned it up, I got home from work, tonight, and all the wads of destroyed mold had cured. I don't have 48 hours to wait for rubber to cure. I'll mix the next batch hotter. I ordered this rubber, because the Oomoo I got about three months ago had set. I'm aware of its shelf life, but I have never had it go bad, that quickly!

That's awesome, i'm no expert ether and i try to cast parts for my self, Ian, Jo and Francis love to work with brass and they've been pushing to try it, maybe next year i can see and build a couple try outs, maybe i like it like you said, love how this project is turning, i have a big scale dragster in my (To do list) and i think this is a better option to build parts and chassis components 

[Straightliner59]

18 hours ago, Joe Nunes said:

It is fascinating to see how this is coming together. I am now thinking of throwing out the models on my bench and then taking up tiddlywinks!  😂🤣😅😉

Joe 

Don't you dare!😄

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

This is great work Daniel, your brass steering box is awesome my friend !   I see you have a giant dime too ! 😉

Thank you, kind sir! I admired your giant dime, so much, I had to get one, for myself!😂

[Straightliner59]

3 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

That's awesome, i'm no expert ether and i try to cast parts for my self, Ian, Jo and Francis love to work with brass and they've been pushing to try it, maybe next year i can see and build a couple try outs, maybe i like it like you said, love how this project is turning, i have a big scale dragster in my (To do list) and i think this is a better option to build parts and chassis components 

Marcos, thanks for your kind words.

Once you get used to working with brass--and other metals, you really begin to appreciate their versatility. If something's built properly, it's not coming apart! Unless you cut something too short, errors can usually be pretty readily fixed. It's a little more difficult to work with, because of its hardness, but, its advantages are multitude. For most of the time I've used it, I did all my soldering with a cheap Weller iron. I cobbled together my resistance soldering outfit on Ebay, for right at $100, about five years ago. I just kept searching for the equipment, until I found stuff I could afford, except for the foot switch. I think that cost me $10. Later, I found a better power unit for a great price! I really like the resistance rig!

[mr68gts]

On 11/21/2022 at 2:19 PM, Straightliner59 said:

I did some more work with the wheel. I got it all ready to mold, tacky glued it into a mold box, and found that my rubber was bad. Got that ordered...The drag link I had was a tad too small to work with the handrail stanchions--the wall was so thin, it was tearing.  I straightened a length of .052" aluminum wire, and drilled the ends of it, to replace the .040" wire. I have some slightly smaller Special Shapes tubing that would work, but I really don't want to use that much of it, here, if I can find an alternative.

The front tires I had planned to use don't fit the wheels satisfactorily, so I found a pair from one of Revell's later Top Fuel kits that I'll go with. While there aren't prototypes, I like these wheels, and think they look feasible enough, as a retro-modern design.

Once the steering is worked out, I'll be expending a lot of elbow grease, scrubbing the plastic coating off these aluminum sheets, so that work can commence on the new body. I have a couple of new tricks that I am looking forward to employing, here.

 

 

 

 

 

Length of hypodermic tubing is a bit better in scale IMO. Available from Amazon in foot lengths at reasonable prices..... unless your building 1/8 scale then that BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH gets expensive.... ($20.00 for a foot of tubing that I needed for my 4 link bars!....smdh! What was I thinking? lol)

Paul

[Straightliner59]

53 minutes ago, mr68gts said:

Length of hypodermic tubing is a bit better in scale IMO. Available from Amazon in foot lengths at reasonable prices..... unless your building 1/8 scale then that BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH gets expensive.... ($20.00 for a foot of tubing that I needed for my 4 link bars!....smdh! What was I thinking? lol)

Paul

I hate working with that stuff, though. It's so damned hard. I may look into it. I know guys have been using it, forever.

[Straightliner59]

I've been making new mounting brackets for the third-member, from aluminum. I want to get the rear axle set up, so I can put this thing on the wheels! Many of you know this, some may not:

This assembly is critical, where dragsters, FCs and fuel altereds are concerned (any vehicle that's sans u-joints). It's best to rigidly mount a solid rod that represents the c/l of the drivetrain, and keeps everything aligned, horizontally(This applies to things like old Fords, with a rigid torque tube driveline, as well). I'm finding this to be a lot of work. Some of it's quite challenging. I'm having a frigging blast! Your comments, critiques and questions are always welcome. Thanks for looking!

[Tortuga Kustomz]

21 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Marcos, thanks for your kind words.

Once you get used to working with brass--and other metals, you really begin to appreciate their versatility. If something's built properly, it's not coming apart! Unless you cut something too short, errors can usually be pretty readily fixed. It's a little more difficult to work with, because of its hardness, but, its advantages are multitude. For most of the time I've used it, I did all my soldering with a cheap Weller iron. I cobbled together my resistance soldering outfit on Ebay, for right at $100, about five years ago. I just kept searching for the equipment, until I found stuff I could afford, except for the foot switch. I think that cost me $10. Later, I found a better power unit for a great price! I really like the resistance rig!

sounds really interesting, maybe i can start searching to see if i can start gathering those tools for good prices like you're doing, thanks for the info

[Straightliner59]

4 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

sounds really interesting, maybe i can start searching to see if i can start gathering those tools for good prices like you're doing, thanks for the info

I would recommend it. I wouldn't recommend waiting for that, to start, though! Like I said--I built this entire chassis using a cheap Weller pencil-type iron. I still use it, frequently, as well. New resistance units can be very expensive. Generally, to piece a unit together, the most expensive proposition is the handset. There are instructions to build them, on the interwebs, but, if you can get a tweezers set for under a hundred bucks, you're not doing too bad. I had to make new ends for my tweezer cords, to adapt them to my unit. Anyway, if you decide to pursue it, let me know, and I'll help out as much as I can!

To the subject at hand. Near as I can figure, I first began work on this project in late 1997, or early 1998. This morning is the first time, since its inception, that this dragster has stood on its own legs! What a fantastic feeling! I'm hoping to have a set of my new front wheels cast, soon. Heck, if I can find the components, I may just build a mate for the first one, and use it..

I did change up the mounting of the third-member brackets (inside from outside). I don't have the pumpkin in the car, at the moment, but, I have, so I know it fits. Once I have that installed, I will work on the brakes, and finalizing installation of the rear wheels. I have a couple of spots to clean up, as well, before I can respray the repaired areas. I may add some discoloration to the welds. That's ambitious. I'll have to give it thought. I'm very happy with the progress I've made with this heap! Please comment in whatever manner you'd like. Thanks for looking!

[Tortuga Kustomz]

WOW, love the details man, can i try in 1/25 scale, going to take mi couple tryouts for sure

[Joe Nunes]

Wow is right!  

Joe

[Straightliner59]

19 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

WOW, love the details man, can i try in 1/25 scale, going to take mi couple tryouts for sure

Thanks, man. 1/25 is what I (mostly) build. Go for it, Marcos! I'm happy to help, in any way I can.

 

18 hours ago, Joe Nunes said:

Wow is right!  

Joe

Thank you, Joe!

[mr68gts]

On 11/28/2022 at 7:14 PM, Straightliner59 said:

I hate working with that stuff, though. It's so damned hard. I may look into it. I know guys have been using it, forever.

Yeah its a pain in the ass to cut! I use my dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut it to length. i have managed to bend it but damn takes some work to bend lol. Wonder how the lathe will cut it.....its hardened stainless but maybe with a cbn cutter or something.

[Straightliner59]

5 hours ago, mr68gts said:

its hardened stainless but maybe with a cbn cutter or something.

Now, there's a thought! Hmmm...

[Straightliner59]

I did some work to the axle ends. I drilled them, and added studs, in the form of Grandt Line Hex Nut/Bolt castings. I also soldered a nut to the outboard side of the steering arm. Once the shaft is cut to the proper length, I will solder the inner section of brass tube to the shaft, and the steering arm will be snugly trapped between them. That will keep the movement tight, and not sloppy. That's about it, for now. I'm just trying to get something done, every day. Thanks for looking!

[Ian McLaren]

WOW Daniel you have been very busy as of late. I am so glad you have pushed through on this project with your usual level of detail and craftsmanship.  The work you have put into the third member is wonderful and congratulations on getting it up on its wheels. I always consider that a milestone in any of my projects, that is the point it becomes a vehicle in my mind.

[Tortuga Kustomz]

Awesome detail, love it, i think i need to step up my game a little bit more LOL, keep working those awesome models man

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

WOW Daniel you have been very busy as of late. I am so glad you have pushed through on this project with your usual level of detail and craftsmanship.  The work you have put into the third member is wonderful and congratulations on getting it up on its wheels. I always consider that a milestone in any of my projects, that is the point it becomes a vehicle in my mind.

Thanks, so kindly, for your comments, Ian! I agree--getting a model on the wheels is kind of a big moment. When I set it aside, I think I knew that I was waiting for the day that I felt my skills had progressed to the point where I could do it, properly. I feel like I am there, for sure. The steering works flawlessly, and the rest of the parts are satisfying, to me. I'm not particularly looking forward to using all my "elbow grease", sanding the coating off the aluminum flashing, but, that's not terribly far off, now.

As to the third member--I also have a photoetched Strange logo for it. I had one on, but, it went flying to, well...wherever parts go, when they fly away!

I have a question--what data collection points did you install for the box on your altered? I'm just curious as to how many might be used. I know on the current (NHRA) fuel cars, there are a bazillion of them, even things like exhaust temps. I'm guessing I'll want engine RPM, output shaft RPM and wheel speed, at least.

2 hours ago, Tortuga Kustomz said:

Awesome detail, love it, i think i need to step up my game a little bit more LOL, keep working those awesome models man

Thanks, Marcos! You're doing just fine, just keep working it, man! Don't worry about me--I'm pretty sure that I can't help myself!🤣

[Straightliner59]

Well...I am having a helluva struggle with my front wheel. I wasn't happy with the first mold--or wheel, so I made a new wheel. I am in the process of making a second mold, as well. While that cures, I started scrubbing the plastic coating from a sheet of flashing. It's pretty hard work, and pretty messy--it's gotta be done, however! All I have, now, are photos of the "cleaned" sheet, along with the untreated sheets. Also included, are a couple of photos of the basic outline of the cockpit side panels (which will now include a roll-under, to form the floor). Next, the sheet will be annealed. Photos of that process, once it's happened...stay tuned!

[Straightliner59]

Okay. I have been meaning to do this, since I was running the old SLM website. Since this dragster needs a new body, now seems as good a time as any. It'll take a few installments, but, if you're interested in building aluminum dragster bodies, you'll at least have a few ideas, to get started. First and foremost, I would suggest reading and familiarizing yourself with the information Tom Hanna (Hey! Who better ya' gonna' learn from?) imparts in the following articles:

 

A couple of quick thoughts and photos of annealing. First, because of the torch I have on hand, I cut a two-inch strip off the end of the flashing that I drew the body lines on. This provides enough annealed sheet to make both sides of the cockpit section of the body, yet, this section of sheet is small enough to heat quickly enough to anneal, without burning it. That happens, quickly!

Anyhoo...simply apply Ivory soap to the sheet by rubbing it on. Get close to a source of water, or a vessel large enough to hold water enough to easily submerge your heated sheet. This needs to happen quickly! Apply heat with the torch until the soap "flashes" black (dark brown), and quench it, immediately. Your sheet is now annealed. In the photo, here, the sheet has (of course) been quenched, which rinses most of the soot from the material.

My second note regards cutting the sheet. Lay the side of the sheet you'll be using, flat, atop the blade of the scissors. Cutting in this manner maintains a flat edge on the "good" side, and curls the falloff. I think the photos will be sufficient to illustrate. Questions, comments are always welcomed. Thanks for looking!

Edited December 4, 2022 by Straightliner59

[AmericanMuscleFan]

Very good source of information Daniel, this project is going in the right direction! 😊

[Joe Nunes]

Thanks!  This is interesting information that you have shared with us. 

Joe

[Ian McLaren]

Very cool information thank you.

 

[Straightliner59]

17 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Very good source of information Daniel, this project is going in the right direction! 😊

Thank you, my friend! It actually feel like it is, to me, too--for now! Except for the front wheels. Turned out that I only had one of the front Halibrands left, so I was left without the option of simply building a set of wheels. I built a new new wheel, that's much better, and, it's in rubber, now. I'll be pouring the second side of the mold later today.

15 hours ago, Joe Nunes said:

Thanks!  This is interesting information that you have shared with us. 

Joe

Thank you, Joe. I have been lucky enough to have had some friends who were always willing to teach me, and, I really like to share what I've learned, too! I have never understood why anyone would maintain any secrets about this stuff! But, they're out there!

7 hours ago, Ian McLaren said:

Very cool information thank you.

 

Thanks, Ian. Thank you, as well!