Acrylic gloss coat ?

[Mike 1017]

I got this can from Hobby Lobby yesterday. I explained that I was going use it on clear plastic and this is what he gave me. Got home did a test spray and this what happened. Check out the back of the can.

Mike

 

[stitchdup]

just add fertaliser and you have a pretty powerful explosive

[StevenGuthmiller]

I don't want this to sound like a personal attack Michael, but I have not been the only one to warn people again and again about buying these cheap paints.

I get the fact that they may be more inexpensive or convenient, but in the end, you might have been better off to just flush the money down the toilet and save yourself the aggravation.

 

It's been said before, but here it is again.

"You get what you pay for".

Or more to the point, "you get a can full of rubbish for a few dollars less".

 

 

 

Steve

Edited December 1, 2022 by StevenGuthmiller

[Tcoat]

There is one product for all your clear plastics needs!

 

Also used for shading, smoothing, decal pre and post coats, high gloss finish coats, and maybe even floors.

 

[CabDriver]

15 minutes ago, Tcoat said:

There is one product for all your clear plastics needs!

 

Also used for shading, smoothing, decal pre and post coats, high gloss finish coats, and maybe even floors.

 

Pity it's discontinued...but yes, if you can find it, it's great for certain jobs

[Tcoat]

1 minute ago, CabDriver said:

Pity it's discontinued...but yes, if you can find it, it's great for certain jobs

It is still around. They changed the name but the product is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Floor-Finish-Gloss-27/dp/B002YC438C

 

[Mike 1017]

35 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't want this to sound like a personal attack Michael, but I have not been the only one to warn people again and again about buying these cheap paints.

I get the fact that they may be more inexpensive or convenient, but in the end, you might have been better off to just flush the money down the toilet and save yourself the aggravation.

 

It's been said before, but here it is again.

"You get what you pay for".

Or more to the point, "you get a can full of rubbish for a few dollars less".

 

 

 

Steve

I did explain that I was gonna use it for clear plastic just like the ones that are in the store. When a can or bottle says Acrylic that is what supposed to be inside. Anyway, back to Hobby Lobby for an exchange and maybe some answers. $8.00 a can.

Thanks for the comment

Mike

[CabDriver]

8 minutes ago, Tcoat said:

It is still around. They changed the name but the product is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Floor-Finish-Gloss-27/dp/B002YC438C

 

Yes, and THAT product is also discontinued.  Hence the price for the one and only bottle on Amazon being $50.  There's a whole thread on it, somewhere here.

2 minutes ago, Mike 1017 said:

When a can or bottle says Acrylic that is what supposed to be inside.

I wouldn't doubt it's an acrylic paint - but that doesn't necessarily mean it's safe for any and all plastics.  As you correctly noted from the photo you posted of the various chemicals in the product's makeup, it may be acrylic but it certainly isn't WATER based like some people interpret 'acrylic' to mean...

Was the part you tried it on a spare that you didn't need?  Fingers crossed you dont need it, because that paint crazed it pretty good, it looks like...

[Tcoat]

Just now, CabDriver said:

Yes, and THAT product is also discontinued.  Hence the price for the one and only bottle on Amazon being $50.  There's a whole thread on it, somewhere here.

I wouldn't doubt it's an acrylic paint - but that doesn't necessarily mean it's safe for any and all plastics.  As you correctly noted from the photo you posted of the various chemicals in the product's makeup, it may be acrylic but it certainly isn't WATER based like some people interpret 'acrylic' to mean...

Was the part you tried it on a spare that you didn't need?  Fingers crossed you dont need it, because that paint crazed it pretty good, it looks like...

OH MY! The store near me has a bunch on the shelf still. I best go get some. Immediately. I use the stuff for everything. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

47 minutes ago, Mike 1017 said:

I did explain that I was gonna use it for clear plastic just like the ones that are in the store. When a can or bottle says Acrylic that is what supposed to be inside. Anyway, back to Hobby Lobby for an exchange and maybe some answers. $8.00 a can.

Thanks for the comment

Mike

Acrylic can be one of those terms that doesn’t explain a whole lot.

They run the entire gammit from a water based acrylic craft paint, all of the way to an acrylic lacquer, which is essentially automotive paint.

It appears that you have something here that’s closer to the latter.

Plastics are not a one size fits all affair either.

Styrene plastic is an entirely different animal than some other plastics.

Might be safe to use on your lawn furniture, but not necessarily your kit parts.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited December 1, 2022 by StevenGuthmiller

[Tcoat]

1 minute ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Acrylic can be one of those terms that doesn’t explain a whole lot.

They run the entire gammit from a water based acrylic craft paint, all of the way to an acrylic lacquer, which is essentially automotive paint.

It appears that you have something here that’s closer to the latter.

 

 

 

Steve

Yep. Acrylic is the final dried finish. What chemicals are used to get to that final dried finish can vary dramatically. 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I guess my first question would have been, why was it necessary to spray clear paint over a clear part in the first place?

If the part was scratched or damaged in any way, it might have been a better approach to polish it.

If you feel that it is necessary to spray clear coat over it, you could try Testors clear lacquer.

I’ve sprayed it over virtually everything with no adverse affects, and while I don’t recall ever feeling the need to spray it over clear parts, (although at some point I may have) I have used Testors lacquer window tint on kit glass before and it worked well.

I assume they are one in the same as far as formulation goes.

Just be sure to test it on a spare part, (as should always be your practice when working with unfamiliar products)

 

 

Steve

Edited December 1, 2022 by StevenGuthmiller

[peteski]

Despite the wide misuse by the modelers of the phrase "acrylic paint" to mean water-based plastic-safe paints, Acrylic resin is used as a binder in many types of paints, including the "hot" organic-solvent based paints.  I wish modelers would stop using "acrylic" to mean water-based paint. 

Edited December 1, 2022 by peteski

[StevenGuthmiller]

16 minutes ago, peteski said:

Despite the wide misuse by the modelers of the phrase "acrylic paint" to mean water-based plastic-safe paints, Acrylic resin is used as a binder in many types of paints, including the "hot" organic-solvent based paints.  I wish modelers would stop using "acrylic" to mean water-based paint. 

I understand that most modelers take the word acrylic to mean a water based, plastic safe paint, and I often take it as such myself, but people need to understand that that doesn’t necessarily translate when it comes to buying a product, especially when you’re dealing with this sort of bargain store stuff.

There’s no way of knowing how these cheapo paints are going to perform without some testimonials from other hobbyists who have had some experience with it.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited December 1, 2022 by StevenGuthmiller

[peteski]

To me the cost of the paint is really irrelevant.  If the instructions on the label do nto state that the paint works (is safe) on plastic, then some caution should be exercised (like testing the paint on a scrap of plastic or inconspicuous area of the item being painted).  Even the most expensive paint can be hot enough to damage plastic.

And if plastic compatibility is not stated, if the pant contains acetone and xylene, those are big red flags for it not being plastic friendly.  And of course clear plastic also seems to be most sensitive to hot paint solvents.

Edited December 1, 2022 by peteski

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, peteski said:

To me the cost of the paint is really irrelevant.  If the instructions on the label do nto state that the paint works (is safe) on plastic, then some caution should be exercised (like testing the paint on a scrap of plastic or inconspicuous area of the item being painted).  Even the most expensive paint can be hot enough to damage plastic.

And if plastic compatibility is not stated, if the pant contains acetone and xylene, those are big red flags for it not being plastic friendly.  And of course clear plastic also seems to be most sensitive to hot paint solvents.

The cost is irrelevant, but if you're using good paint, which is either designed for the hobbyist, or there is adequate information, feedback and instructions available to you to know how to use it, these sort of things won't happen.

A paint doesn't necessarily need to be plastic compatible, as long as you know what your getting going in.

With these bargain paints, it's going to be the user's job to figure out what's in the can, as many of them state no real information on the can, other than, as in this case, "Clear Acrylic", which is basically meaningless unless you analyze the ingredients.

With virtually all of the mainstream paints used within the model car building hobby, there's a plethora of information available to the modeler of how to deal with each one of them.

With a paint such as this, you're either relying on the off chance that there's information out there from someone who may have used it once, or else you're going to have to spend the money and hope.

 

I belong to a multitude of Facebook groups, and several modeling forums, and in all honesty, paint issues are by far the most common problem that I see out there, and in the vast majority of circumstances, it's because the person is going to Walmart, Home Depot, Menards, etc, and buying something in a spray can that they have zero idea of what it is their getting.

Next thing you know, they're asking for advice on how to fix a disastrous paint job that they got from using some furniture paint that they got at the corner hardware store.

 

My only contention is that if you use products that are tried and true for our hobby, you're much less likely to be spending your time asking the next inevitable question, "What do I use to strip this paint?"

 

 

 

Steve

[jaymcminn]

Yeah, that's some nasty stuff in there. Honestly, the guy at Hobby Lobby isn't going to be some sort of paint guru and he definitely isn't going to be aware of the tendency of acetone to react badly with polystyrene (I think that's what caused the crazing). At best, he'll have some basic training and a little experience with a few of the products. At least you did the smart thing by sacrificing a test part. Lesson learned, no harm done. 

"Acrylic" is a catchall term that by no means refers to whether a paint is water-based. The Revell acrylic spray paints are billed as acrylic, and they indeed are, but they're an acrylic lacquer just like Tamiya. 

Edited December 1, 2022 by jaymcminn

[NOBLNG]

7 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:

I got this can from Hobby Lobby yesterday. I explained that I was going use it on clear plastic and this is what he gave me. Got home did a test spray and this what happened. Check out the back of the can.

Mike

Thankfully you read the back of the can and did a test spray before using it on a good kit part!😬

[CabDriver]

6 hours ago, Tcoat said:

OH MY! The store near me has a bunch on the shelf still. I best go get some. Immediately. I use the stuff for everything. 

Definitely!  The Ace Hardware near us had 20-something dusty old bottles on the shelf, for $5 or so a piece.  

Once news got out that it was about to become hard to come by, it disappeared before I even got around to picking up another bottle…wouldn’t be surprised if one or two modelers picked it all up while they could 

[showrods]

16 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

The cost is irrelevant, but if you're using good paint, which is either designed for the hobbyist, or there is adequate information, feedback and instructions available to you to know how to use it, these sort of things won't happen.

A paint doesn't necessarily need to be plastic compatible, as long as you know what your getting going in.

With these bargain paints, it's going to be the user's job to figure out what's in the can, as many of them state no real information on the can, other than, as in this case, "Clear Acrylic", which is basically meaningless unless you analyze the ingredients.

With virtually all of the mainstream paints used within the model car building hobby, there's a plethora of information available to the modeler of how to deal with each one of them.

With a paint such as this, you're either relying on the off chance that there's information out there from someone who may have used it once, or else you're going to have to spend the money and hope.

 

I belong to a multitude of Facebook groups, and several modeling forums, and in all honesty, paint issues are by far the most common problem that I see out there, and in the vast majority of circumstances, it's because the person is going to Walmart, Home Depot, Menards, etc, and buying something in a spray can that they have zero idea of what it is their getting.

Next thing you know, they're asking for advice on how to fix a disastrous paint job that they got from using some furniture paint that they got at the corner hardware store.

 

My only contention is that if you use products that are tried and true for our hobby, you're much less likely to be spending your time asking the next inevitable question, "What do I use to strip this paint?"

 

 

 

Steve

LOL.  All of what you said is SO true Steve.

[Mike 1017]

On 12/2/2022 at 8:30 AM, showrods said:

LOL.  All of what you said is SO true Steve.

Got back from Hobby Lobby no one and I mean no knew anything about paint. I showed the manager what acrylic is and what is in that can. One would think I was speaking Klingon to her. Got my exchange and bought a bottle  Createx clear.

Thanks for all the comments.

Mike

[Mike 1017]

On 12/1/2022 at 4:44 PM, jaymcminn said:

Yeah, that's some nasty stuff in there. Honestly, the guy at Hobby Lobby isn't going to be some sort of paint guru and he definitely isn't going to be aware of the tendency of acetone to react badly with polystyrene (I think that's what caused the crazing). At best, he'll have some basic training and a little experience with a few of the products. At least you did the smart thing by sacrificing a test part. Lesson learned, no harm done. 

"Acrylic" is a catchall term that by no means refers to whether a paint is water-based. The Revell acrylic spray paints are billed as acrylic, and they indeed are, but they're an acrylic lacquer just like Tamiya. 

I just read up on Acrylic and you are right. In defense of Hobby Lobby, they must have 100 or even 1000 products.  No one could be an expert on everything that they have.

Thanks for the info

Mike

[Mike 1017]

On 12/1/2022 at 1:33 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I guess my first question would have been, why was it necessary to spray clear paint over a clear part in the first place?

If the part was scratched or damaged in any way, it might have been a better approach to polish it.

If you feel that it is necessary to spray clear coat over it, you could try Testors clear lacquer.

I’ve sprayed it over virtually everything with no adverse affects, and while I don’t recall ever feeling the need to spray it over clear parts, (although at some point I may have) I have used Testors lacquer window tint on kit glass before and it worked well.

I assume they are one in the same as far as formulation goes.

Just be sure to test it on a spare part, (as should always be your practice when working with unfamiliar products)

 

 

Steve

It was a test. I never ever use any new product without trying it out first. That window was in the parts box. 

Mike 

[Bugatti Fan]

Holloway House Floor Shine in the Green labelled carton.

Does same as Johnson's Klear/Future/Revive It.