Any interest in Semi Truck tool boxes and other parts?

[Oldmopars]

Wheels, 20 and 22in

[Oldmopars]

On 2/6/2023 at 11:55 AM, Force said:

Of course I do.

Here is a couple where I have compared both, the yellow one is the Revell Germany dash and the white one is the AMT dash, they are slightly different but very similar in size.

Speaking of Kenworth.
I would like to see these battery box/tool box covers with the off center steps for the W900, drivers side and passenger side are mirrored and both fits on either side so you can sometimes see the step more towards the front and some have it more towards the rear.
This to be able to do a correct replica of the Movin' On trucks from both seasons wich have these covers on all 4 trucks.
The battery/tool box covers available with a step are the ones from the Revell Germany W900 like the recently reissued W900 Dump Truck, the the step in those are slightly wider and centered.

Does anyone have any dimensions of this box?  L, W H?

 

[Force]

On 2/15/2023 at 4:40 AM, Oldmopars said:

Wheels, 20 and 22in

They look very nice, maybe a little tweak on the larger wheel because the 10 holes looks to be a bit too large and should be smaller, no larger than the hole size on the smaller wheel, otherwise they look good

On 2/15/2023 at 5:03 AM, Oldmopars said:

Does anyone have any dimensions of this box?  L, W H?

 

I don't have measures of a real box cover but I have a resin battery box that looks similar but not right as the step is longer and centered on this one and I took measures on that as it's the only thing I have.
On the real box cover I sent pictures on earlier the step a bit shorter and off center as you can see if you compare them.

Length:

Hight:

Width:

Steps:
The real one I sent picture of earlier the step is a bit shorter and off center so this is not right but I took measures of it anyway.

Depth:

 

This is for one side of the step on the box cover, the opposit side looks to be at least twice as wide or even more on the real box cover I sent pictures of earler and the step should be that much narrower.
So you need two boxes to do one truck, one for each side as they are mirrored, the wider bit is at the front and the narrow bit is at the rear on both boxes, or the other way around if one prefer to do it that way.

I hope this helps.

Edited February 18, 2023 by Force

[Force]

On 2/15/2023 at 3:07 AM, Oldmopars said:

Well, thank you for all the reference material. I can't begin to tell you how much it helped to make this. Take a look and see if it is close to what it needs to be. I have not forwarded it on and can still make updates to it. 

You are welcone to them and I'll help out as much as I can as I have wished someone would do these dash panels for a long time, I don't know how to use a CAD program otherwise I would have done it myself.

This also looks very nice, maybe some little tweaks here and there to get it even better.

The step area at the left arrow looks to be a bit too deep and the angle of the upper panel are a bit too sharp as the upper and lower panels dont have the same angles, the base of the upper part should be closer to the upper edge of the lower part of these panels.
The brake valve knobs at the right arrow could also be a bit smaller.

 Here is a picture showing the different angles of the panels the upper panel is slightly flatter than the lower panel and the step portion is not that deep.

 

Also the left side on the upper part of the dash should be at an angle towards the panels with the gauges so the edge between the gauge panel and the side panels is straight, you can see it on the picture above but on the picture below it shows even better.

This shows the same thing on an older Aerodyne dash panel with toggle switches instead of the squareish plastic ones on the picture above.

 

There should also be an ash tray on the passenger side of the panel and there is one under the panel on the drivers side too, but these are not that hard to scratch build.

Edited February 18, 2023 by Force

[Oldmopars]

7 hours ago, Force said:

You are welcone to them and I'll help out as much as I can as I have wished someone would do these dash panels for a long time, I don't know how to use a CAD program otherwise I would have done it myself.

This also looks very nice, maybe some little tweaks here and there to get it even better.

The step area at the left arrow looks to be a bit too deep and the angle of the upper panel are a bit too sharp as the upper and lower panels dont have the same angles, the base of the upper part should be closer to the upper edge of the lower part of these panels.
The brake valve knobs at the right arrow could also be a bit smaller.

 Here is a picture showing the different angles of the panels the upper panel is slightly flatter than the lower panel and the step portion is not that deep.

 

Also the left side on the upper part of the dash should be at an angle towards the panels with the gauges so the edge between the gauge panel and the side panels is straight, you can see it on the picture above but on the picture below it shows even better.

This shows the same thing on an older Aerodyne dash panel with toggle switches instead of the squareish plastic ones on the picture above.

 

There should also be an ash tray on the passenger side of the panel and there is one under the panel on the drivers side too, but these are not that hard to scratch build.

Thank you, that is why I posted it, I had hoped you would see something I missed. I will work on those things this week.

Thanks again.

[Force]

2 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

Thank you, that is why I posted it, I had hoped you would see something I missed. I will work on those things this week.

Thanks again.

I'm eager to see the results.
I have saved a lot of references for the Aerodyne dash as I thought about scratchbuilding one and maybe have it replicated i resin, but with the 3D printing technique and CAD design it's probably less work and easier to rectify stuff, and I would have done it myself if I was able to work with CAD but I don't have a CAD program and don't know how to use it...I might have to get a course in CAD because I have lots and lots of ideas of things not available for both car and truck models.
If you do the dash we can maybe persuade CTM to do a photo etch detail kit for it with gauge details and stuff because their stuff is great, but if nothing is available they don't seem to be interested.
I will even provide references to them if they need them...all for the cause.

Edited February 18, 2023 by Force

[Oldmopars]

4 hours ago, Force said:

I'm eager to see the results.
I have saved a lot of references for the Aerodyne dash as I thought about scratchbuilding one and maybe have it replicated i resin, but with the 3D printing technique and CAD design it's probably less work and easier to rectify stuff, and I would have done it myself if I was able to work with CAD but I don't have a CAD program and don't know how to use it...I might have to get a course in CAD because I have lots and lots of ideas of things not available for both car and truck models.
If you do the dash we can maybe persuade CTM to do a photo etch detail kit for it with gauge details and stuff because their stuff is great, but if nothing is available they don't seem to be interested.
I will even provide references to them if they need them...all for the cause.

While I know everyone has different abilities, I just started to learn CAD February of last year, so 12 months ago. I got a printer and felt I needed to learn how to do some drawing. I downloaded Fusion 360 and watched a few YouTube videos. Now I sell designs on Cults3D and through Texas 3D Customs. So, if I can do it, you can too. 

However, I should note that I do spend 3-6 hours a day, nearly every day forking in Fusion to be able to do what I do. Some days even more. 

The Photo etch would be great. It would really add to the detail. 

Edited February 19, 2023 by Oldmopars

[Force]

I might give it a try.
Do you have the personal version for private use?

[Fat Brian]

Since we're talking K100 stuff, how about a full update to the square headlight front end? There are only a few pieces that need to be made and honestly the dual square headlight bezels would be good on their own too. I have measurements for the bezels and might can get some of the K100 headlight area if the one I know of is still there. 

Here's a picture of the instructions from the Revell kit. By replacing parts 155 & 156 with their square headlight replacements and bezels and the grille and adding the dash you've already made that would get about everything needed.

[Force]

3 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

Since we're talking K100 stuff, how about a full update to the square headlight front end? There are only a few pieces that need to be made and honestly the dual square headlight bezels would be good on their own too. I have measurements for the bezels and might can get some of the K100 headlight area if the one I know of is still there. 

Here's a picture of the instructions from the Revell kit. By replacing parts 155 & 156 with their square headlight replacements and bezels and the grille and adding the dash you've already made that would get about everything needed.

I have seen somewhere that someone was doing just that but it takes more than the headlights to do a K100E, the whole front section of the cab is different as well as the grille wich is more angular than on the earlier K100's.
The cab on the E model wich came 1984 is slightly longer as the windshields are laid back 3 degrees more than on the previous K100 models and the cab grew from 86 to 90 inches for the shorter single bunk cab and from 108 to 112 inches for the longer dual bunk cab, so the cab is 4 inches longer from front to back on an E model than the previous models while the roof lentgh is the same.
So to do a correct K100E you have to do a complete cab, headlights and grille to get the right look as well as the side grab bars with steps wich are different from the earlier B and C models with separate aluminum steps, and the square horns, roof lights and turn signals.
With that said it's not undoable but more work intensive.

Edited February 19, 2023 by Force

[Fat Brian]

1 hour ago, Force said:

I have seen somewhere that someone was doing just that but it takes more than the headlights to do a K100E, the whole front section of the cab is different as well as the grille wich is more angular than on the earlier K100's.
The cab on the E model wich came 1984 is slightly longer as the windshields are laid back 3 degrees more than on the previous K100 models and the cab grew from 86 to 90 inches for the shorter single bunk cab and from 108 to 112 inches for the longer dual bunk cab, so the cab is 4 inches longer from front to back on an E model than the previous models while the roof lentgh is the same.
So to do a correct K100E you have to do a complete cab, headlights and grille to get the right look as well as the side grab bars with steps wich are different from the earlier B and C models with separate aluminum steps, and the square horns, roof lights and turn signals.
With that said it's not undoable but more work intensive.

Still, doing those few pieces would get us far closer than we are now. If the grille and headlight area was done you could make the cab whatever length you want it. I would rather it be 95% accurate and on my shelf that waiting on 100% and never getting finished. 

[vincen47]

1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

Still, doing those few pieces would get us far closer than we are now. If the grille and headlight area was done you could make the cab whatever length you want it. I would rather it be 95% accurate and on my shelf that waiting on 100% and never getting finished. 

I agree, as I’d like to do a K100E conversion someday. These parts would go a long way to making that happen. Besides, I think there was one or two overlap years where the C model could be had with square headlights. 

[Fat Brian]

35 minutes ago, vincen47 said:

I agree, as I’d like to do a K100E conversion someday. These parts would go a long way to making that happen. Besides, I think there was one or two overlap years where the C model could be had with square headlights. 

Yeah, I don't really like the late E with the setback front axle, I want an early one. 1984 seems to be the overlap year with some E changes appearing as early as late 83 but being in full production by 85.

[Force]

I believe the more angular grille came at the same time as the square headlights and it would look weird with square headlights and the more rounded grille from the C model.
But as I said, I have seen someone quite recently who did the headlights and the parts where the headlights mount to, I don't remember where, probably on facebook somewhere...but you also need the more angular grille if you want to fake it...just my observation.
One thing one could do is print a correct front section of the cab so one could be able to graft it on a K100C cab, because I believe the roof section is the same on the C and E and it's just the wind screens that are slanted 3 degrees more backwards and the front section under the wind screens is 4 inches further forward on the E compared to the C, and make the square stuff like the grille, horns and lights too, in that case we would get a more correct K100E.
The side skirt above the front wheels are also at a different angle on the E compared to the C wich are more rounded.

The reason for the setback front axle was to be able to mount longer leaf springs for a smoother ride, but that would not matter if someone did a correct cab as both versions were available on the E model.

Edited February 20, 2023 by Force

[Fat Brian]

9 hours ago, Force said:

I believe the more angular grille came at the same time as the square headlights and it would look weird with square headlights and the more rounded grille from the C model.
But as I said, I have seen someone quite recently who did the headlights and the parts where the headlights mount to, I don't remember where, probably on facebook somewhere...but you also need the more angular grille if you want to fake it...just my observation.
One thing one could do is print a correct front section of the cab so one could be able to graft it on a K100C cab, because I believe the roof section is the same on the C and E and it's just the wind screens that are slanted 3 degrees more backwards and the front section under the wind screens is 4 inches further forward on the E compared to the C, and make the square stuff like the grille, horns and lights too, in that case we would get a more correct K100E.
The side skirt above the front wheels are also at a different angle on the E compared to the C wich are more rounded.

The reason for the setback front axle was to be able to mount longer leaf springs for a smoother ride, but that would not matter if someone did a correct cab as both versions were available on the E model.

I was asking Scott to make the grille as well, I might not have been clear enough. I see the difference in the windshield but it doesn't bother me enough to fix it considering what a massive pain it would be. Personally, I've been collecting parts for this build for a long time and have square horns and the modern lights but having them would definitely benefit others if this project gets taken up.

[Oldmopars]

On 2/18/2023 at 1:48 AM, Force said:

You are welcone to them and I'll help out as much as I can as I have wished someone would do these dash panels for a long time, I don't know how to use a CAD program otherwise I would have done it myself.

This also looks very nice, maybe some little tweaks here and there to get it even better.

The step area at the left arrow looks to be a bit too deep and the angle of the upper panel are a bit too sharp as the upper and lower panels dont have the same angles, the base of the upper part should be closer to the upper edge of the lower part of these panels.
The brake valve knobs at the right arrow could also be a bit smaller.

 Here is a picture showing the different angles of the panels the upper panel is slightly flatter than the lower panel and the step portion is not that deep.

 

Also the left side on the upper part of the dash should be at an angle towards the panels with the gauges so the edge between the gauge panel and the side panels is straight, you can see it on the picture above but on the picture below it shows even better.

This shows the same thing on an older Aerodyne dash panel with toggle switches instead of the squareish plastic ones on the picture above.

 

There should also be an ash tray on the passenger side of the panel and there is one under the panel on the drivers side too, but these are not that hard to scratch build.

Ok, I have made the fixes, but my flight was leaving and I just got it done in time to save and close. I will post the updated pictures tonight.

I did add the ash tray on the right side of the dash, but the lower left ash tray is in the interior tray. This dash does not extend that far, the dash sits above that part.

I also reduced the size of the air brake valves. 

[Oldmopars]

On 2/19/2023 at 10:32 AM, Fat Brian said:

Since we're talking K100 stuff, how about a full update to the square headlight front end? There are only a few pieces that need to be made and honestly the dual square headlight bezels would be good on their own too. I have measurements for the bezels and might can get some of the K100 headlight area if the one I know of is still there. 

Here's a picture of the instructions from the Revell kit. By replacing parts 155 & 156 with their square headlight replacements and bezels and the grille and adding the dash you've already made that would get about everything needed.

I will look into this. If I do it, I will either do a full front panel that you cut off the original and attach the corrected front. If that doesn't work I will do a full cab. 

With all the rivet counters, I don't want to offer something that is known to be wrong, just to have everyone tell me how wrong it is. 

If I did a part cab/front, it would have to be for the AMT, unless someone has a spare Revell for me to compare it to. I only have an AMT.

The full cab should work with either. 

Input?

[Fat Brian]

1 hour ago, Oldmopars said:

I will look into this. If I do it, I will either do a full front panel that you cut off the original and attach the corrected front. If that doesn't work I will do a full cab. 

With all the rivet counters, I don't want to offer something that is known to be wrong, just to have everyone tell me how wrong it is. 

If I did a part cab/front, it would have to be for the AMT, unless someone has a spare Revell for me to compare it to. I only have an AMT.

The full cab should work with either. 

Input?

I totally respect that. I actually have a Revell cab I'd contribute to the cause, it's got a bit of a stubborn twist to it but should be perfect for getting measurements. 

As for just the front versus the entire cab I'm not sure. Just front would be cheaper but I don't know if would work for both kits. Hakan might have more input, I don't know if the doors are different or anything else further back.

[Oldmopars]

The Updated Dash

On 2/18/2023 at 11:42 AM, Force said:

I'm eager to see the results.
I have saved a lot of references for the Aerodyne dash as I thought about scratchbuilding one and maybe have it replicated i resin, but with the 3D printing technique and CAD design it's probably less work and easier to rectify stuff, and I would have done it myself if I was able to work with CAD but I don't have a CAD program and don't know how to use it...I might have to get a course in CAD because I have lots and lots of ideas of things not available for both car and truck models.
If you do the dash we can maybe persuade CTM to do a photo etch detail kit for it with gauge details and stuff because their stuff is great, but if nothing is available they don't seem to be interested.
I will even provide references to them if they need them...all for the cause.

 

[Force]

17 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

The Updated Dash

 

Now we're talking.
It looks good, maybe the knobs for the brake valves could have been even a touch smaller but it's good enough and 200% better than the kit offerings, so good work...now to the printer. 😉😄
When it comes to the drivers side ash tray it's not a big deal as it's under the dash on the "dog house" and easy to scratch build if you want to.

As for the K100E, I would be interested in whatever you decide to do, a front clip for an excisting cab you graft on or a complete cab, AMT or Revell AG doesn't matter as I have several of both.
If you decide to do a complete cab the Revell AG kit it might be easier as the roof section on the Revell K100's is a separate piece so you can build either a flat top or Aerodyne depending on what kit you start with.

[Force]

On 2/21/2023 at 3:22 AM, Fat Brian said:

I was asking Scott to make the grille as well, I might not have been clear enough. I see the difference in the windshield but it doesn't bother me enough to fix it considering what a massive pain it would be. Personally, I've been collecting parts for this build for a long time and have square horns and the modern lights but having them would definitely benefit others if this project gets taken up.

If Scott or someone else does a convincing E model I'm up for it.
I may be nitpicking but I want it to look right, I'm sorry about that but that's how my mind works.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Force

[Oldmopars]

40 minutes ago, Force said:

Now we're talking.
It looks good, maybe the knobs for the brake valves could have been even a touch smaller but it's good enough and 200% better than the kit offerings, so good work...now to the printer. 😉😄
When it comes to the drivers side ash tray it's not a big deal as it's under the dash on the "dog house" and easy to scratch build if you want to.

As for the K100E, I would be interested in whatever you decide to do, a front clip for an excisting cab you graft on or a complete cab, AMT or Revell AG doesn't matter as I have several of both.
If you decide to do a complete cab the Revell AG kit it might be easier as the roof section on the Revell K100's is a separate piece so you can build either a flat top or Aerodyne depending on what kit you start with.

I did reduce the size of the brake valves, but I hate to go any smaller. Because they stick out from the dash, and are not a feature of the das, if I go too much smaller, they may become an issue to print. Not that they can't be printed, but that they will be very fragile and just break off before you even get them painted. 

As for the K100E, I think it would be a fun project. Charles has the Ford W1000 now and I am waiting to see how that goes getting it printed. Some tweaking is required. If we can successfully get those to print and they work good for him, I will be doing more. If not I may have to see if I can print one good one and send it to a resin caster as a master.  I have lots of time to draw/design, I have ZERO time to print or cast parts. 

For the K100E, would a flat top or Aerodyne be more desirable? When I get to that point, having a Revell cab and interior would be helpful. I will have to keep my eyes open for one or borrow from somebody. I am thinking full cab at this point, but we shall see. 

[Force]

Just now, Oldmopars said:

I did reduce the size of the brake valves, but I hate to go any smaller. Because they stick out from the dash, and are not a feature of the das, if I go too much smaller, they may become an issue to print. Not that they can't be printed, but that they will be very fragile and just break off before you even get them painted. 

As for the K100E, I think it would be a fun project. Charles has the Ford W1000 now and I am waiting to see how that goes getting it printed. Some tweaking is required. If we can successfully get those to print and they work good for him, I will be doing more. If not I may have to see if I can print one good one and send it to a resin caster as a master.  I have lots of time to draw/design, I have ZERO time to print or cast parts. 

For the K100E, would a flat top or Aerodyne be more desirable? When I get to that point, having a Revell cab and interior would be helpful. I will have to keep my eyes open for one or borrow from somebody. I am thinking full cab at this point, but we shall see. 

Don't worry about it, the dash looks really good and I like to see it printed...as I said, I have lots of kits who need this dash.

If you do a K100E I'm up for one.
Flat Top or Aerodyne, well it's depending on personal taste, I suggested the Revell kit because the basic kit is the same for both the Flat Top and Aerodyne with different separate roof sections on the same cab, the downside is the price they go for and that they are not in production right now.
But if you do something for the AMT kit you are pretty much locked on the Aerodyne as the only Flat Top they have is the K123 with a shorter and older style cab.

[Oldmopars]

1 minute ago, Force said:

Don't worry about it, the dash looks really good and I like to see it printed...as I said, I have lots of kits who need this dash.

If you do a K100E I'm up for one.
Flat Top or Aerodyne, well it's depending on personal taste, I suggested the Revell kit because the basic kit is the same for both the Flat Top and Aerodyne with different separate roof sections on the same cab, the downside is the price they go for and that they are not in production right now.
But if you do something for the AMT kit you are pretty much locked on the Aerodyne as the only Flat Top they have is the K123 with a shorter and older style cab.

So, I have looked for a Revell, and they are all $150-300+. Not happening. AMT kits are out there for under $50 and on the shelf today. 

What dash would the K100E have? If I did a full cab, could both a flat top and Aerodyne be used on the AMT chassis?

 

[Oldmopars]

OK, some research shows that the dash is the same for the K100E. So that helps.