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Best Way to Save/Apply Old Water Slide Decals?


TheCamaroKid

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I have several old 90s and early 2000s NASCAR kits. I was building a 1992 Monogram Dale Earnhardt. Everything went great save for the water slide decals. This was kind of a beater model kit and a test bed. I tried using Liquid Decal Film on the decal sheet. Aftering applying it and letting it set for a good 20 minutes. Almost every decal had cracked. I tried applying a few using microsol/set but just about every decal cracked when sliding off.

I used steaming hot water, I wore gloves and used a dry paint brush.

I have a 1998 Dale Earnhardt (the PLUS car) I really want to build as well as a 2002 Jeff Gordon with the Dupont Flames. Is there a way to save these decals? Or is it just up to chance at this point?

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OK......

The biggest factor is how the decals have been stored for long periods. A buddy of mine uses 1960's era decals all the time. But he has kept them in sealed bags in a cool dark closet. Heat, humidity and light will kill a decal. 

you may try:

Apply a clear spray over decals before you try and apply them. 

Use just warm water with one drop of dish soap.

Dip decal in water, place on damp paper towel and allow to 'cook' for 3-4 minutes. 

Good luck

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53 minutes ago, Dave Van said:

OK......

The biggest factor is how the decals have been stored for long periods. A buddy of mine uses 1960's era decals all the time. But he has kept them in sealed bags in a cool dark closet. Heat, humidity and light will kill a decal. 

you may try:

Apply a clear spray over decals before you try and apply them. 

Use just warm water with one drop of dish soap.

Dip decal in water, place on damp paper towel and allow to 'cook' for 3-4 minutes. 

Good luck

Ok. That might be good news then. My other model kits were only recently opened. They still had the shrink wrap and the decals are still in the boxes and the boxes are in AC home.

The one Dale Earnhardt kit was opened, it was in a guy's garage and the decal sheet was out.

For clear coating the decals, I have a question: I'm using Tamiya lacquer to paint the cars. Can I use Krylon on the decals and still clear the car/decals with Lacquer or should I just spray the decal sheet with Tamiya Lacquer and then apply them?

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2 hours ago, Dave Van said:

OK......

The biggest factor is how the decals have been stored for long periods. A buddy of mine uses 1960's era decals all the time. But he has kept them in sealed bags in a cool dark closet. Heat, humidity and light will kill a decal. 

you may try:

Apply a clear spray over decals before you try and apply them. 

Use just warm water with one drop of dish soap.

Dip decal in water, place on damp paper towel and allow to 'cook' for 3-4 minutes. 

Good luck

I mostly concur with this methodology.

I use Testors rattle can decal bonder #9200. (though I am running low and have not been successful tracking down any more)

The key is to give the decal some resilient strength before it has to be separated from the backing paper.

Warm water and one drop of dish soap is the PERFECT formula.

It keeps the decal slippery enough to move it into place.

I have had some decals I messed with for an extraordinary amount of time until the were perfectly aligned.

I let mine soak fully submerged, then tease it with a toothpick in the dish, until I can just get it to move from the decal paper.

I am sure other techniques work just as well.

I use white vinegar on the surface and a cotton swab soaked in it to push the applied decal in place.

The combination of the acid in the vinegar and the dried detergent molecules make for a very good bond when dried.

Once perfectly aligned, use dry cotton swabs to lightly tamp it down and chase out the bubbles while simultaneously absorbing the excess water.

IMG_2570.JPG

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