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Suggestions for a finish simulation sought


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The new AMT Charger calls for a color on the chassis, and I think a few other parts called "EZ Coat Olive."

I'm assuming this is a more modern automotive undercoat or anti-corrosive coating.

I'm also assuming that a can of this stuff will dissolve plastic.

Does anyone have a recommendation for simulating it?

Charlie Larkin

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SEM makes a paint branded as EZ Coat Olive green- a search of the interwebz didn't turn up any affiliation with Dodge.

https://www.smsdistributors.com/products/sem-62223-ez-coat-olive-green-16-oz-aerosol

I have used SEM paints on 1:1 vehicle trim and interior parts. SEM paints are on the "hot" side for plastics, but if that is indeed the shade called out, you should be able to get something in the same ballpark in enamel, lacquer or even acrylic craft paint that will look the part without potentially crazing the kit styrene.

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2 hours ago, charlie8575 said:

That Tamiya is awfully close.

Yup. Before the post recommending that specific color, I was going to suggest finding a close match among Tamiya's military greens.

Just a note...real factory applied e-coat primers are low gloss, not flat.

The real SEM is indeed very "hot", as I've discovered first hand attempting to use it on models. Spectacular crazing.

DSCN0278_zpscve1pjop.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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So, it sounds like a coat of the olive green spray, followed by a wash of a low-sheen clear is in order. Noted.

Actually, I intend to do a wash with some AK "oil" to simulate New Hampshire Oil Undercoat, which, especially with new cars being as pricey as they are, you're absolutely insane not to use around here, but a little extra depth to the finish is okay, too, adds interest.

Charlie Larkin

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57 minutes ago, charlie8575 said:

Actually, I intend to do a wash with some AK "oil" to simulate New Hampshire Oil Undercoat, which, especially with new cars being as pricey as they are, you're absolutely insane not to use around here...

Digression: An interesting fact is that cars don't rust from the bottom up. They rust from the top down, in areas where moisture and dirt that holds it accumulate...like inside rocker panels, unibody structural members, and frame rails that have big gaping holes in them (unfortunately very common on many late-model vehicles), the bottoms of doors, under floor mats and carpeting, etc.

Waxoyl and similar products were the most effective for combating this, provided that the insides of structural members and doors were completely coated, often accomplished by drilling holes in otherwise inaccessible areas to allow introduction of the spray wand, and sealed with plugs at the end of the job.

Undercoating sprayed only on the underside of a vehicle is essentially useless, but as it remains a profit-maker for dealerships, and can be "professionally applied" by LCD employees, it continues as a consumer ripoff.

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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1 minute ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Digression: An interesting fact is that cars don't rust from the bottom up. They rust from the top down, in areas where moisture and dirt that holds it accumulate...like inside rocker panels, unibody structural members, and frame rails that have big gaping holes in them (unfortunately very common on many late-model vehicles), the bottoms of doors, under floor mats and carpeting, etc.

Waxoyl and similar products were the most effective for combating this, provided that the insides of structural members and doors were completely coated, often accomplished by drilling holes in otherwise inaccessible areas to allow introduction of the spray wand, and sealed with plugs at the end of the job.

Undercoating sprayed only on the underside of a vehicle is essentially useless.

 

Most applicators of NHOU do very much like this. They get in the holes, many will also spray inside the front fenders, in the frame rails, and in the doors. I'm not sure how many go so far as to drill holes, but if there's a rubber plug present, more than a few will pull those and squirt in there, too.

As I begin in earnest to do my '55 Dodge, I wonder if something like Waxoyl on the de-rusted, clean metal prior to painting might be a good idea. I plan to seal the body in a product I ran across called Master Series XT, which is single-stage urethane filled with aluminum powder (40% by volume and weight), and has a history of use on bridges with excellent results. But, any/all anti-corrosion products will be considered that are actually effective, in consultation with my bodyman.

Charlie Larkin

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15 minutes ago, charlie8575 said:

As I begin in earnest to do my '55 Dodge, I wonder if something like Waxoyl on the de-rusted, clean metal prior to painting might be a good idea. I plan to seal the body in a product I ran across called Master Series XT, which is single-stage urethane filled with aluminum powder (40% by volume and weight), and has a history of use on bridges with excellent results. But, any/all anti-corrosion products will be considered that are actually effective, in consultation with my bodyman.

I spray everything that's been de-rusted with an epoxy primer, inside and out, and force it to run into pinch welds, rolled door edges, etc.

Depending on several factors, I'll usually use the PPG DP40 green.

For maximum adhesion and toughness, there's a Sherwin Williams industrial epoxy that used to be sold for automotive use, but AFAIK, no longer is. It's kind of a bugger to use, requires a 20-minute "induction period" prior to spraying...but man, when the stuff is fully cured, even the most aggressive paint stripper barely touches it.

Like all epoxies, it requires very thorough mechanical scuffing prior to recoating after it's cured, or topcoating with primer-surfacers in preparation for paint.

Shoot your Waxoyl inside doors and structure after your epoxy is fully cured for maximum protection.

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Anybody remember Rusty Jones or Ziebart rustproofing systems?  They were quite popular in the New England area in the '70s and '80s.  I remember stickers on cars showing that they were rustproofed.  But today's cars seem to be quite more rust resistant, even in the salty New England, even without any additional rustproofing applied. Whatever they do at the factory seems to work well.

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3 hours ago, peteski said:

Anybody remember Rusty Jones or Ziebart rustproofing systems?  They were quite popular in the New England area in the '70s and '80s.  I remember stickers on cars showing that they were rustproofed.  But today's cars seem to be quite more rust resistant, even in the salty New England, even without any additional rustproofing applied. Whatever they do at the factory seems to work well.

It seems that pickup trucks still rust around and above the rear wheel wells no matter how extensive the protection. I’m in the Maryland rust belt but global warming is going to cure that. We haven’t had a substantial snow in a while. 

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3 hours ago, peteski said:

Anybody remember Rusty Jones or Ziebart rustproofing systems?  They were quite popular in the New England area in the '70s and '80s.  I remember stickers on cars showing that they were rustproofed.  But today's cars seem to be quite more rust resistant, even in the salty New England, even without any additional rustproofing applied. Whatever they do at the factory seems to work well.

Yeah, Ziebart was a big one, again where they'd drill holes to spray the stuff inside the structure and doors.

Some cars are hot-dip galvanized today, others are dipped in a penetrating primer after the shells are fully welded together, so the pinch welds are protected from moisture incursion. But sheetmetal is much thinner now too, so once structural rust gets a toehold, it goes pretty quick.

I've seen fairly late-model trucks with frame rails rusted through, and FWD subframes no longer attached to anything, because the factory did pretty much nothing to protect them on the inner surfaces.

I've also seen newer unibody cars fatally rusted from the inside-out through the rockers and floors, even though thickly undercoated from the bottom. All the structural sheetmetal was gone, but there was a shell of undercoating that looked like structure remaining...until you hit one hard bump too many. Unscrupulous used-car dealers buy spray undercoating by the 55 gallon drum.

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3 hours ago, Oldriginal86 said:

It seems that pickup trucks still rust around and above the rear wheel wells no matter how extensive the protection. I’m in the Maryland rust belt but global warming is going to cure that. We haven’t had a substantial snow in a while. 

See? There's an upside to everything, even those pesky existential threats.   :D

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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