Running out of Future / Pledge Floor Care?

[Pierre Rivard]

So now that Future is now a thing... of the past....and that my stock is running low, I decided to try Quick Shine

Tried it on a discarded body that was painted a long time ago. I scuffed it with 4000-6000-8000 and brushed on the Quick Shine.

Brushes on even easier than Future. I'll check in a few days to see if becomes reasonably resistant.

Promising.

 

[Rich Chernosky]

Pierre...if you can find a product called  "Looks Like Glass" it will do the same thing and maybe even better.  It was made for restoring  plastic windshields and canopies.  You can dip it, spray it or brush it. Thins with water. It is a little heavier bodied than Future and cures in 2-3 days.  Used it on my last build...the Lotus 72C.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Anybody ever try tinting their Future, or whatever, with transparent green or blue acrylic paint to see how it would work for tinted glass?

I've never had much use for Future, but if it could be very lightly tinted, I thought it might work well for this application.

 

 

Steve

[Rigor]

Steven if your looking to tint the upper part of an windshield  look in the aircraft paints its call armored glass for tinting canopy's

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Rigor said:

Steven if your looking to tint the upper part of an windshield  look in the aircraft paints its call armored glass for tinting canopy's

I was thinking more along the lines of a tint for the entire glass.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

[Miatatom]

I just looked and Just Like Glass is available through Hobbylinc.

[Joe Nunes]

The Quick Shine looks good on your model. Did you brush the QS over the windows at the same time you applied it onto the car body?  Did you use a soft bristled brush or a foam brush?  Thanks.  🙂

Joe

[Pierre Rivard]

Rich, I never tried Looks Like Glass. Thanks for the tip. For now my goal is to see if Quick Shine can replace Future. I clear my bodies with Tamiya X22 and polish it before decals. I future over decals as a seal coat only. It's gentle to decals and the gloss goes up if the surface below it is very smooth. It took time for me to refine my process so for now would like to stick to it.

Joe, I brushed it on with a soft bristle brush just like I do for Future. It is easier than Future because less sensitive on overlapped areas because it settles a little slower.

I did the fingernail test to the finish this morning (about 15 hours after brushing it on) and it passed the test. Appears to be a tougher finish than Future.

I tried glass this morning. One piece came out ok, the other I goofed and try to redcoat without success. Surprise, Windex does not wash it like it does for Future so I'll probably have to buff that piece and re-coat. More testing needed but I think Future is still best for glass.

 

[ctruss53]

I never understood why people use Future when there are so many high quality clearcoats out there.

[Rigor]

This is true Chad the aircraft guys use future to dip canopies Tamiya's x-22  works well also 

[Tcoat]

17 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Anybody ever try tinting their Future, or whatever, with transparent green or blue acrylic paint to see how it would work for tinted glass?

I've never had much use for Future, but if it could be very lightly tinted, I thought it might work well for this application.

 

 

Steve

I use tinted future on ever single thing I build. The self leveling feature of it makes it perfect for adding subtle shadows and highlighting both sunken and raised details. Unfortunately this same feature makes it useless for tinting clear parts! Since it spreads to low places or bunches up around raised ones it leaves very very little material in between. I tried several different mixes for tinted windows on a Huey and they were a complete failure. 

[Tcoat]

3 hours ago, Pierre Rivard said:

Rich, I never tried Looks Like Glass. Thanks for the tip. For now my goal is to see if Quick Shine can replace Future. I clear my bodies with Tamiya X22 and polish it before decals. I future over decals as a seal coat only. It's gentle to decals and the gloss goes up if the surface below it is very smooth. It took time for me to refine my process so for now would like to stick to it.

Joe, I brushed it on with a soft bristle brush just like I do for Future. It is easier than Future because less sensitive on overlapped areas because it settles a little slower.

I did the fingernail test to the finish this morning (about 15 hours after brushing it on) and it passed the test. Appears to be a tougher finish than Future.

I tried glass this morning. One piece came out ok, the other I goofed and try to redcoat without success. Surprise, Windex does not wash it like it does for Future so I'll probably have to buff that piece and re-coat. More testing needed but I think Future is still best for glass.

 

Does it self level as well as the Future? Seems like it.

[CabDriver]

20 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Anybody ever try tinting their Future, or whatever, with transparent green or blue acrylic paint to see how it would work for tinted glass?

I've never had much use for Future, but if it could be very lightly tinted, I thought it might work well for this application.

 

 

Steve

Yes sir - Future is still my go-to carrier of choice for mixing Createx acrylic candies (which are highly concentrated and need to be mixed to be usable), and it works well for mixing up a tinted dip for clear parts too...provided you're the kind of person who can successfully dip clear parts in Future and manage to not get any dust on the part before it dries.  I'm not that kind of person (at least, not one who can do it successfully as consistently as I'd like), but I messed with that technique and it works well.  Food coloring works well with Future too.

Main thing if you're adding a TINT to the future is to wick off any excess from the edges with a Kleenex or napkin when the part's drying otherwise you'll end up with visible splodges in the tint with darker areas were. 

As reported by others who have used it, it also helps hide micro-scratches in kit glass, and makes it appear somewhat thinner

[CabDriver]

5 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I never understood why people use Future when there are so many high quality clearcoats out there.

Because, horses for courses - Future has some properties that other clears don't have (and vice versa)

[Pierre Rivard]

5 hours ago, ctruss53 said:

I never understood why people use Future when there are so many high quality clearcoats out there.

I hear you Chad. I started this thread for people who like using Future, not to convince those who do not use it that they should. Sharing ideas, nothing more.

May not be a high quality clear coat but I like what it does for me as a final seal coat over decals

Pierre

 

Edited March 23, 2023 by Pierre Rivard

[TransAmMike]

Good topic...the first ever clearing I did was with the original Future; a bottle I have had for years.  I tried the Tamiya clear and didn't really like the experience. I used Rustoleum Automotive Crystal clear on a few and did like it but it did'nt  react too well with some paints.

Future is pretty unforgiving and doesn't need thinning to spray it and gives a great shine over flats.   Will probably go back to it on my next clearing.

 

[Tcoat]

4 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Yes sir - Future is still my go-to carrier of choice for mixing Createx acrylic candies (which are highly concentrated and need to be mixed to be usable), and it works well for mixing up a tinted dip for clear parts too...provided you're the kind of person who can successfully dip clear parts in Future and manage to not get any dust on the part before it dries.  I'm not that kind of person (at least, not one who can do it successfully as consistently as I'd like), but I messed with that technique and it works well.  Food coloring works well with Future too.

Main thing if you're adding a TINT to the future is to wick off any excess from the edges with a Kleenex or napkin when the part's drying otherwise you'll end up with visible splodges in the tint with darker areas were. 

As reported by others who have used it, it also helps hide micro-scratches in kit glass, and makes it appear somewhat thinner

Even wicking it I could not get tint dark enough to know it was even there on the main parts of the clear. Never tried food colouring though.

[Tcoat]

What Future does better than anything else is self level. If you want a nice even coat then sure any shiny finish material will work. If you want it to flow across the surface then future is your stuff. I use other clear coats for many thing but Future on literally every model I paint. It is (well was) fast, easy and durable so why so many haters?

 

[Pierre Rivard]

I agree with Tony that the self leveling characteristics of Future is unmatched. What else could you brush on so easily and get a smooth glossy finish in one minute? Personally I use Future only for glass and final body seal coat after decals. I do  X22 clear over color coats and polish that before decals, then Future as final step.

Going back to the Quick shine comparison, yes it self levels as well as Future and from that one body test was very easy to brush on and produces a tough finish. Overall equal or better than Future for the body but not as good on the glass. The product has a milky appearance out of the bottle but brushes and dries crystal clear.

I'll be giving Quick Shine another shot on my current project, a black Ford GT40

[Ace-Garageguy]

I'm running out of future, but not the kind of future you guys are talking about.  

[StevenGuthmiller]

On 3/23/2023 at 7:11 PM, Tcoat said:

What Future does better than anything else is self level. If you want a nice even coat then sure any shiny finish material will work. If you want it to flow across the surface then future is your stuff. I use other clear coats for many thing but Future on literally every model I paint. It is (well was) fast, easy and durable so why so many haters?

 

I don't think it's so much that some of us are "haters".

More like "non-believers".

If I don't believe in something, I don't promote it, and in some cases, (such as Molotow) I'll go so far as to try to point out it's downfalls and recommend, based on my own experience, that people avoid it's use for those reasons.

 

Now, in the case of Future, I have no personal experience with it, so I have to rely on tidbits of information gained from other people who do.

My biggest problem with Future, or any of these other "floor care" products, is that you can't polish them.

I'm a strong believer that polishing gives me the best finish that I can produce, and quite frankly, I've not been thoroughly impressed with a good number of the Future finishes that I've seen.

Not to say that I have not seen good results that some get when using it, but let's just say that some people's idea of "good" is not always all that great.

 

Kind of like the response I often get when discussing the use of Molotow ink on external chrome trim when I ask people to please produce an example where Molotow has produced a better result than BMF normally does.

Honestly, I don't believe that I've ever gotten a real response to that question.

Usually just crickets.

And if I did, I would definitely consider it more of an anomaly than the norm, because believe me, I've seen hundreds of Molotow jobs that the builder thinks looks good that don't.......to say the least.

 

All that said, I don't have anything against Future per-say, I just don't necessarily believe that it's a good substitute for a clear coat and polish.

To be honest, I've always had the mindset that the use of products such as Molotow and Future were basically acceptable "short cuts", and I don't believe that when you're trying to achieve the absolute best results that you possibly can, that short cuts are necessarily a good thing.

 

All of this just my opinion of course, which I'm sure I will catch some heat for.

 

 

 

Steve

 

[stitchdup]

If any of you know a janitor from any large public building that has linoleum floors you could get the stuff they use in the floor polisher machines. It goes on with a satin finish but the more you rub it, the shinier it gets. I had a near limitless supply when i cleaned airports. It comes in large drums (25 litre drums is what i had) and generally doesn't have a prominent brand name, just a row of letters and numbers. Its self levelling too

[Bills72sj]

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't think it's so much that some of us are "haters".

More like "non-believers".

If I don't believe in something, I don't promote it, and in some cases, (such as Molotow) I'll go so far as to try to point out it's downfalls and recommend, based on my own experience, that people avoid it's use for those reasons.

 

Now, in the case of Future, I have no personal experience with it, so I have to rely on tidbits of information gained from other people who do.

My biggest problem with Future, or any of these other "floor care" products, is that you can't polish them.

I'm a strong believer that polishing gives me the best finish that I can produce, and quite frankly, I've not been thoroughly impressed with a good number of the Future finishes that I've seen.

Not to say that I have not seen good results that some get when using it, but let's just say that some people's idea of "good" is not always all that great.

 

Kind of like the response I often get when discussing the use of Molotow ink on external chrome trim when I ask people to please produce an example where Molotow has produced a better result than BMF normally does.

Honestly, I don't believe that I've ever gotten a real response to that question.

Usually just crickets.

And if I did, I would definitely consider it more of an anomaly than the norm, because believe me, I've seen hundreds of Molotow jobs that the builder thinks looks good that don't.......to say the least.

 

All that said, I don't have anything against Future per-say, I just don't necessarily believe that it's a good substitute for a clear coat and polish.

To be honest, I've always had the mindset that the use of products such as Molotow and Future were basically acceptable "short cuts", and I don't believe that when you're trying to achieve the absolute best results that you possibly can, that short cuts are necessarily a good thing.

 

All of this just my opinion of course, which I'm sure I will catch some heat for.

 

 

 

Steve

 

Steve, I hear your points on Molotow and Future. Are the absolute best solutions for chrome and clear? No, but for us 90%ers, they get the job done. I have become gun shy on solvent based clears after watching it crinkle an irreplaceable and expensive set of decals.  Future is very forgiving and can be removed with household ammonia and cotton swab. This avoids repaints for those of us who have limited build time. Regarding your tinted window inquiry. Food coloring does work with Future on kit glass. However, you have to get it pretty dark in the cup to show decent tint on the glass. The nice thing is, it will never harm the glass and you can do innumerable do-overs. I tinted the windows blue on my 1:25 Hot Wheels replica.

[Pierre Rivard]

20 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I don't think it's so much that some of us are "haters".

More like "non-believers".

If I don't believe in something, I don't promote it, and in some cases, (such as Molotow) I'll go so far as to try to point out it's downfalls and recommend, based on my own experience, that people avoid it's use for those reasons.

 

Now, in the case of Future, I have no personal experience with it, so I have to rely on tidbits of information gained from other people who do.

My biggest problem with Future, or any of these other "floor care" products, is that you can't polish them.

I'm a strong believer that polishing gives me the best finish that I can produce, and quite frankly, I've not been thoroughly impressed with a good number of the Future finishes that I've seen.

Not to say that I have not seen good results that some get when using it, but let's just say that some people's idea of "good" is not always all that great.

 

Kind of like the response I often get when discussing the use of Molotow ink on external chrome trim when I ask people to please produce an example where Molotow has produced a better result than BMF normally does.

Honestly, I don't believe that I've ever gotten a real response to that question.

Usually just crickets.

And if I did, I would definitely consider it more of an anomaly than the norm, because believe me, I've seen hundreds of Molotow jobs that the builder thinks looks good that don't.......to say the least.

 

All that said, I don't have anything against Future per-say, I just don't necessarily believe that it's a good substitute for a clear coat and polish.

To be honest, I've always had the mindset that the use of products such as Molotow and Future were basically acceptable "short cuts", and I don't believe that when you're trying to achieve the absolute best results that you possibly can, that short cuts are necessarily a good thing.

 

All of this just my opinion of course, which I'm sure I will catch some heat for.

 

 

 

Steve

 

Steve, I understand your point about the limitations of Future and my thread was not as selling it as something better than clear. I'm not selling here. That being said, many among us use Future, each for our own reasons, and the stuff is out of production so the topic is about testing Quick Shine as a possible replacement.

Pointing out here that I brush paint everything because I build in a condo in the winter in Montreal. I do use Tamiya X22 clear which I do polish. I build race cars with decals and I want them protected, hence the process polished X22 clear, decals and Future seal coat (unpolished) as the final step.

This latest test is with Quick Shine replacing Future as a final seal coat brushed on a (gulp) black body. A touch less gloss than Future but easier to brush on. I think the lower gloss is ok and looks period correct for 60's racecar builds that I usually do.

So my verdict is that Quick Shine is a go for me

 

[Mopar maniac 74]

Chad

The issues with clear coat for me is I use spray cans and every clear except the old testors enamel wants to lift and wrinkle the decals so the future and now quick shine are a nice tip for me to try