I just wanna cry

[Erock]

69 Dodge Charger Daytona. I cleared the hood first by itself and all was fine. Did the body just now and this....I can't figure out why. Same paint used on hood and body, same clear used also

[JollySipper]

That's too bad! Were you using enamels? Did you paint everything at the same time? There's a recoat window with enamels........

[Erock]

9 minutes ago, JollySipper said:

That's too bad! Were you using enamels? Did you paint everything at the same time? There's a recoat window with enamels........

I used Testers enamel paint and lacquer clear coat. That happened after the clear was applied. Didn't effect the hood though. All painted at the same time

[bluestringer]

12 minutes ago, Erock said:

I used Testers enamel paint and lacquer clear coat. That happened after the clear was applied. Didn't effect the hood though. All painted at the same time

I think it's a no-no to put lacquer over enamel.

[Claude Thibodeau]

Hi Eric!

James is right: the solvents in hobby enamels and lacquers are not the same. The effect you got is called "boiling" (or blistering) of the color coat when the hotter lacquer clear hits it. I'm afraid you'll have to remove the paint on the body and start again, this time staying with color coats that are compatible with Testor's lacquer clear. If you are using the blue label Testor lacquer clear, its viscosity and "hotness" are worse than the brown label Wet Look Extreme lacquer (both by Testor's). 

Good luck!

CT

[Zippi]

Yup, like James says.  You can spray lacquer over enamel but the enamel has to be totally dry.  I mean dried for like two or three weeks.  Even then it's taking a chance.

Edited April 22 by Zippi

[bobthehobbyguy]

Best rule of thumb is stick with one brand and type for a paint job. If you follow recoat guide lines there shouldn't be any problems. 

[Lunajammer]

Yep. Lacquer over enamels. Happens every time and it's seldom if ever forgiving. It tells you immediately when it's angry. It should strip off pretty easy so give it a swim and jump right back in before you let the bad mojo kill your momentum.

[roadkill]

Aww, mate I feel ya pain, I've painted things like that, same paint same model but one part just goes completely whacko, just weird and sooo frustrating.

 

Michael

Perth Western Australia.

[Farmboy]

Had the same happen to me using Krylon clear but why?  Same Krylon clear I've used forever it seems.  Then I compared the small print.  Both the same till it got to the cleanup part.  The old reliable Krylon clear said to use mineral spirits, the new Krylon clear said to use lacquer thinner.   I bought a spray bomb of Rustoleum clear that said cleanup with mineral spirits.....problem solved. Pain in the a** this new important change wasn't noted separately on the main picture label.  Hope this helps

Edited April 23 by Farmboy

[Sledsel]

As others have said never ever put lacquer over enamel. The fact the hood came out okay is quite amazing

[ozmodeler]

 Lacquer reducer is "hot" and will almost always react with enamel , Enamel will go over other paints with no crazing as it uses a much milder reducer. (mineral turps etc. )

 As Mike stated, the paint job will strip easy. Perhaps the hood didn't react because you may have applied the top coat using a lighter "drier" technique ? It's all part of

learning and will trip-up  anyone now & then.

[ModelcarJR]

I agree with everyone that lacquer should not be applied over enamel.  For my part, I seldom use enamel, especially Testors enamel out of a rattle can. Enamel takes too long to dry and really doesn't need a clear if applied in enough coats, allowed to dry long enough (not sure what that is) and rubbed out and polished. If a clear is applied then it will yellow in about a year. So I don't like to use enamel on modeling subjects. If I do use it, I airbrush it. 

I don't use Testors Extreme Lacquer much either because the flake is too big, the paint is thicker because of the flake, and it tends to bubble up on the edges. Once it bubbles up, it either has to be sanded out and touched up or start over in the purple or oven cleaner pool.  I only use Tamiya or Dupli-Color Perfect Match on bodies, both of which are lacquers with a good primer underneath and Krylon Clear Lacquer as my clear coat. I use Krylon Satins or Flats on interiors and other parts, which is also a lacquer. Occasionally, I'll use a Krylon gloss on interiors but will have to flat it out with some Dullcote. Tamiya is a good model paint but is hard to find. I either have to drive 30 miles into the belly of the beast which is downtown Houston to the only HS that carries it, or mail order it from Hobbylinc and pay the shipping. Dupli-Color is quite expensive now going from under $10 an 8 oz. can to now to $17 and change at an auto parts store. But both are worth it for bodies and it avoids all the tragedies like yours that I too have suffered through years ago.  

I hope that helps. Find a good lacquer and clear that works for you and stay away from enamel unless you airbrush it and rub it out good. 

[bobthehobbyguy]

6 hours ago, ozmodeler said:

 Lacquer reducer is "hot" and will almost always react with enamel , Enamel will go over other paints with no crazing as it uses a much milder reducer. (mineral turps etc. )

 As Mike stated, the paint job will strip easy. Perhaps the hood didn't react because you may have applied the top coat using a lighter "drier" technique ? It's all part of

learning and will trip-up  anyone now & then.

Exactly and it can be a subtle difference that dramatically affects the results. It's why you want to use one brand and preferably model paints of one brand and type.  Other option is dulicolor lacquer or Mcw or other lacquer paints but use the same brand through the whole process.

A manufacturer's line of paint is called a paint system and that way everything is guaranteed to play together nicely.

[H.A.K]

Just sand down those areas and spray some primer in those areas you sanded and clear it. Give it a patina look.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I agree with the "no lacquer over enamel" philosophy, but it's not the be all, end all.

 

You should absolutely be able to use Testors clear lacquer over enamel.

I do it all of the time, on virtually every project.

To be clear, I don't use enamels on the bodies, but I use enamels throughout the rest of the build, and seal the enamel painted parts with Testors clear lacquer on virtually every other surface on the model.

Testors clear lacquers are very benign and shouldn't damage enamel paint in the least, as long as the enamel was applied correctly in the first place.

 

With that said Eric, I have to wonder why you would use enamel for the color coats on the body if you're using lacquer for a top coat anyway.

Lacquer is going to give you a better result anyway if you use it throughout, especially if we're talking spray cans, and I have to tell you, if my memory serves me correctly, Testors white spray enamel was one of the worst paints I had ever used.

Basically orange peel in a can!!

 

 

 

Steve

[Rattlecan Dan]

I feel really bad for you. Thanks for posting and teaching us all a lesson.

[Bugatti Fan]

Likewise Acrylics over any enamels will blister eventually. The oil based enamels take ages (and I mean ages) to dry out thoroughly. Could be months to degauss out properly.

Acrylic over the top of enamel is effectively placing an airtight plastic seal on the paint that is trying to leach out.

Mind you, this phenomenon could be used to good effect in an abandoned car diorama for example.

 

Edited April 23 by Bugatti Fan

[bobthehobbyguy]

5 hours ago, H.A.K said:

Just sand down those areas and spray some primer in those areas you sanded and clear it. Give it a patina look.

Great idea. Give it that barn find look. I've had a few paint jobs go bad and have found a way to take advantage of the situation. I never been fond of stripping paint.

[khier]

"I just wanna cry"

Join the club. My 1969 Chevelle is ruined. The paint was stripped off my 1968 Chevelle three times, and hopefully will not be a fourth time.

[kurth]

That is a real shame, it looks like you did a great job on the paint, decals and chrome only to have that reaction with the paint. A lot of work ruined. I hope you are feeling better now.