Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Working lights

21 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

I was wondering how you make a model car have working lights, I'm also wondering what I would need to do it. I need to be able to do it cheap and easily so keep that in mind. Thanks guys & gals ;)

Nick

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

You need a lightbulb for each light ("Grain of Wheat" bulbs, they're in the model RR section of the LHS), a battery box, a small slide switch and some wire. All of these things can be found at the hobby shop (or Radio Shack). If there is room in the model for the battery box and switch (like in the trunk, for instance), you can have the model's lighting system contained within the model. But remember you'd need access to the battery box after the model is finished (to change the batteries when they die). Opening trunk lid, maybe.

Another way is to run the wires from the lights to a remote battery box and switch (for example, hidden in a base that the model sits on). That way you don't need to fit the batteries and switch within the model.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Thanks Harry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

You could also get yourself some tiny L.E.D's for the headlights.These run off a 9volt battery with a 220 resistor.Both of which you can get a radioshack for a few bucks.These simulate the ultrabright headlights on the newer cars.if you google search cars with nightvision headlights or as Mr.BIGGS if he can show you his car with the lights on you can see what im talking about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

Quite a few years ago when I built Fujimi's 89 Honda CRX model, I did a simple light kit with Dad's help. All we added was tiny white light bulbs from a model train store for the headlights, and small yellow grain-sized lights for the fog lights. I drilled holes where I wanted the lights to go, glued'em in place with epoxy, and Dad did the wirering work hooking theme up to a 9V battery which I made fit in the CRX's rear section underneath the cargo-lid.

Now, thank's to Aoshima, we have this amazing kit which I just found on ebay today. Would love to get one but dont' have the funds for it.

Aoshima1-24lightkit.jpg

This look's to be a very cool kit to have and I hope to have a few for future projects.

Edited by FujimiLover

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Nick, I use Luxon LED's because they stay cool being LED's they throw light out in front of the model meaning they look more like headlights, driving light & other froms of lighting and although not cheap are far better than grain of wheat globes which get hot and could cause damage to the plastic and paint work eventually. All my rally cars that have lights in them have Luxon LED's.

Dingo <_<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

AMT also put out a lighting kit a while back that had both bulbs and fiber optics. Might be worth a look. It has all the battery boxes, switches, wires and even some mounting plasticware. It is mostly designed for spacecraft but can be used as your imagination dictates.

I got the Tilt Pantera years ago and it has working head and taillights, I also did a Ferrari 308 with the same but both kits were set up for lights.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I have tried the "grain of wheat" bulbs, and they are pretty simple to install and wire. The problems I saw were the heat and the life of the bulbs. You don't change bulbs easily in a model, so if I try it again I'll go with LEDs. I have also tried fiber optics, just some simple plexiglass rods with a regular light bulb in the trunk. To make this work, I had to build a box with a removable bottom to contain the light source (you don't want any stray light shining through anywhere) and make it possible to change bulbs. This installation wasn't optimal either, as the bulb generated a lot of heat and would probably have damaged the body if I had left it on for too long.

Many years ago, I saw ads for some kind of illuminated sheets in the model magazines (I believe the ad showed a model of the starship "Enterprise"). You could cut it into smaller pieces, connect wires and the whole thing would light up. I think it's the same material that's used for the illuminated signs you can buy for model railroads, but I haven't seen the ads lately and haven't been able to find it anywhere. Does anyone know if this material is still available?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I'd like to figure out how to make pop-up headlights! That would be awesome, just flip a switch some where and the lights would pop up and light-up!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I'd like to figure out how to make pop-up headlights! That would be awesome, just flip a switch some where and the lights would pop up and light-up!

That would be sweet. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Does anyone know where this Aoshima led kit can be purchased from? I tried to look on ebay and was not able to find the kit. Also does anyone know what the retail is for one of these kits?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Just keep searching ebay every week, I'm sure it'll pop up there again. I'm looking for a set my selfe, or, try HLJ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

That would be sweet. :(

All you need is a motor and axle out of a Hoppin Hydro car and a push button switch a momentary switch is good. Mount the motor in front of the radiator and mount the bent axle to your fabricated headlight buckets. use only one 1.5 volt battery instead of 2 strip the Hydro car of it's wiring and lights. They have two LED's with a resistor and diode in line, make sure you use them too. Use the activating button from the hand controller and your all done. About a weeks worth of work but they work nice. The Hoppin Hydros are cheap about $9.00 they supply you with everything you need. The reason for only one battery instead of two is The LED's are rated at 1.5v but light up at .6 volts and with the resistors in line all you are doing is slowing the motor down so your buckets don't jump out of the body.

Take your time and have fun. If you can't find the 1/25th scale die cast hoppin cars try Tower Hobbies I know they have the Front and Back Hydraulics Kit with the motor and axle for 1/25th for under $15.00 here is the link

Tower Hobbies

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

You guys might check this place out. Looks like some interesting stuff and could be alot of fun.

http://www.microstru.com/index.html

Les

Just checked it out. Seems like they have everything. Thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I wonder if the pop-up's would be possible on the 928. Not my current KS one, but maybe future one? As I said before, it's got the most interesting pop-up's and would be very cool to see operate on a model.

The Strosek 928 that I'd like to do some day, however does not have pop-up's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Fuji, you could make a bracket kinda like the ones we use for opening doors, i did this with a c3 a while back, and if you wanna make it super cool. you could steal the spring from a ink pen and make it where they "pop" up :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Thanks guys for steering me the right way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Something else that works great for me..I use fiber optics you can use a single LED bulb or just a low votage bulb..I take mine and dip them in either plasti coat or liquid electrical tape so th elight is not shining through the bends..and you can run them as long as you need to put the controls out of the way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0