Fletch Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 (edited) The Pacific NW NNL is coming up on April 18th. I volunteered to do one of the clinics for the event. So, I jumped on one of my favorite things to do, Chop the top on a model. The victim for the clinic is going to be the Revell '40 Ford Coupe. The technique I've used for several years makes the whole process pretty painless and if you have all your tools laid out you can chop and have the top back together in about an hour. THe nice thing about the steps is that they can be used on any of the late '30s through mid '50s Chevy, Ford, Merc, Plymouth's with just slight modifications to the process. I hadn't walked through this technique with the Revell '40 so last night as the wife and I sat and watched the ACM awards show I grabbed a body and went to town. Here are the results: Hosted on Fotki Your questions and comments are always welcome. Come to the NNL to see the process step by step. Edited April 28, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 That's one smooth looking chop, I see they got the right guy to do this. Would love to see you in action, but I'll be at NNL East the same day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 NICE TRIM JOB! Looks REAL good,Fletch! I always say, alil off the top never hurt! Your lil coupe jus proves it!Nice an neat too, Good Job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 15, 2009 Author Share Posted April 15, 2009 (edited) For those who plan to attend the Pacific NW NNL this coming Saturday. The clinics schedule is as follows: Clinic #1 @ 10:30 Rachel Dermonte - Forming Aluminum panels for modeling Clinic #2 @ Noon Mike Kerns - Moderate Customizing Techniques Clinic #3 @ 1:30 Dave Fletcher - How to Chop and reassembly a '40 Ford Coupe in an Hour I can speak for the abilities of my co-presenters as they are both well versed in the topics they have chosen. Rachel manages to kick our butts with her metal working abilities at each and every show she enters. After all she is a retired jeweler. Mike is the only person I have met who is crazy enough to tackle sectioning AMTs '58 impala and retain the opening doors. And of course you will get to see how this chop can be done and reassembled in about an hour. The best part is that this technique can be applied to any Coupe or Sedan from the Mid 1930s to the mid 1950s. No matter the 1:1 manufacture. Edited April 15, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdrodder Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 like i said on the other forum the chop looks sweet. The work is nice and clean. I love this build and i cant wait to see it done. Wish i could go to that show it sounds interestin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 I just love the 'look' you give yer builds Dave. Especially how ya seems to like makin 'big fat Fords' Don't gets me wrong bro! Me likes! They looks soooooo cool! Hope ya posts this'n up back here after doin' yer thing at NNL. Have mo' fun there than you deserves & God bless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 One Final update before the NNL. It's doubtful that I'll get anything else done on this before the show as today will be the normal scramble day to make sure everything is in order. Got some paint on it yesterday afternoon, I went with the Dupli-color Metal Speck Burnt Copper. The color's ok, hopefully it will look a lot better with the chrome trim added. The slice in the roof between the A & B pillars after the last coat of primer, so after the NNL I'll go back and sand it out and use some Milliput 2 part putty to resolve that. Seeing how it's a demo piece just to give an idea of what can be done in a short amount of time if you plan it out right, a couple of flaws will be ok for the weekend. Hosted on Fotki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 If you're gonna use this as part of your presentation I would leave that roof line in for sure. How better to show what happens if it is rushed, just as you had to! And, I'm SURE everyone here will back you up when you say this was a PLANNED effect!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 Wow Fletch, maybe you could use more pics an run an article for the mag? That would make a great How-To article! Or just run some more pics here! I'd REALLY like to see HOW you did it! Especially inna hour, GREAT JOB!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 17, 2009 Author Share Posted April 17, 2009 Wow Fletch, maybe you could use more pics an run an article for the mag? That would make a great How-To article! Or just run some more pics here! I'd REALLY like to see HOW you did it! Especially inna hour, GREAT JOB!!!! George, the first half of this is covered in a tutorial on the TRaK forum. The model for this topic is to show what a completed piece looks like. I wanted a "Cut up version" which is the body used for the tutorial. The plan is to go through the entire process at the NNL with a third body. What I hope to do is reassemble the cut up body used for the tutorial next week and show the second half of the process. I'd be happy to email or PM you both halves once the reassembly is complete. So far the tutorial is 15 photos and about 500 words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CB Posted April 17, 2009 Share Posted April 17, 2009 (in my best Gomer voice) SUPRISE SUPRISE SUUPRRRIISE!!! what a pleasant surprise Dave! you never let on you was layin' down a tail dragger! that thing is beautiful!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) The clinic was a hit, everything went as planned. We got started at 2:45 and glued the last piece back to the body at 3:44. So, I felt pretty good that my statement of "Under an hour" was doable. Later this week I'll reassemble the demo body and post the entire tutorial in the tips section. Keep your eyes open as this technique can be used on any number of mid '30s through mid '50s coupe or sedan. Edited April 28, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 (edited) Just a quick update on the progress on the '40s. The major body work has been completed. The '40 for the BVFCC Salt flat version's roof line was leveled out using a couple of different 2 part A/B putty. The putty used for the center section was the Fix-it-stick at the top of the photo. I picked this up at Lowe's over the weekend. I had never used it before but, figured it was 2 part putty so it should work. This stuff was so HOT in less then 5 minutes I couldn't even touch it. It set up extremely fast. the remainder of the roof fill work was done using Milliput Superfine White putty. The '40 that is going to be the Street Rod version's roof was done using TopFlite's Lightweight Microballons Filler. I've used Microballons in the past with varying results. When I have used them before I've used them and CA type glue as that was how I was instructed to use them. Because of the less then stellar results I haven't gone back to them. For some reason I decided to give them another shot. This time "I" read the instructions and mixed them with 2 part epoxy and guess what they actually work. Sanding and filing are easier then the 2 part putty and it set-up in about 30 minutes. I'm most likely going to borrow some of Raul Perez's idea and incorporate the Revell '40 Willys Street Rod for the running gear for this build. Last but not least is the taildragger version. As this was the one that was thrown together quickly for the NNL the Evergreen and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement never had a chance to fully cure. The roof has now been sanded out and the dip in the roof where the filler piece is now level. Weather permitting I should be able to get this one back in paint later in the week. Hosted on Fotki Both the taildragger and Street Rod versions will get the drip rails reinstalled using .015X.020 Evergreen prior to heading to paint. Edited April 28, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len Geisler Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Dave, How about a breif how to, I'd love to chop a 40 like that.... Thanks... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 28, 2009 Author Share Posted April 28, 2009 Dave, How about a breif how to, I'd love to chop a 40 like that.... Thanks... Len, the full tutorial is on our clubs forum. I have attempted to post it here but I keep getting that it has to many photos. So here are the links, you don't have to be a SABA member to view it. Part 1 - The Chop http://sabanw.proboards.com/index.cgi?acti...d=55&page=1 Part 2 - Reassembly http://sabanw.proboards.com/index.cgi?boar...y&thread=60 It's kind of long winded, but it covers pretty much all aspects of the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 ...I'm most likely going to borrow some of Raul Perez's idea and incorporate the Revell '40 Willys Street Rod for the running gear for this build. ...Both the taildragger and Street Rod versions will get the drip rails reinstalled using .015X.020 Evergreen prior to heading to paint. Dave, You'll like how well the Willy chassis and tub section fits under the Ford. A minor stretch of the frame and a little repositioning of the front engine mounts is all you need to do to get it all to work with the 392 HEMI. With what I've seen of your model building skills, you'll have no problem getting it all to fit. I use brass rod for my drip rails, in this case, I'm using .023" material. Brass works better for me because I bend it to fit before I attach it and I drill matched holes at each end on both sides which helps me make sure that both sides look the same when it's done. Since mine is being built as a modern custom, I also chose to change shape of the rear end of the drip rail, letting it end just behind the rear side window instead of carrying it out to the edge of the deck lid. Keep up the GREAT work and thanks for sharing!! Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Raul, I've been watching your build and I am duly impressed with how your build is progressing. There is a great deal of skill here on the forum that is freely shared. The chop on the '40s follows the style of a 1:1 builder here in Portland. After seeing him take the top down on a coupe in a couple of hours I figured I could use the same process on a model and it works very well. The one thing I didn't put in the tutorial is if you choose to reinstall the drip rails with Evergreen Styrene Strip make sure it is a fresh package. One thing we as builders don't take into consideration and that is the Evergreen has a shelf life. If you attempt to use an old package of Evergreen for the drip rails be prepared for it to fracture at each and every bend. Raul, thank you again for the tips on the Willys-> Ford conversion. Besides by doing the '40 this way I'll be ahead of the 2010 Pacific NW NNL as the theme is "Yeah, It's got a Hemi!" Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodBurNeR Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 I really love the version with the skirts Dave! You guys should see the how to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george 53 Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 GREAT tutorial Fletch! I can see how well you thought this out,and it worked out great! I got a coupla 40's in my stash,so I'm gonna try it on both the new Revell kit, and an old Lindburg kit too. If I can make it work on that mess, it'll work on ANY old kit! Thanks Fletch, you REALLY did us a favor here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) GREAT tutorial Fletch! I can see how well you thought this out,and it worked out great! I got a coupla 40's in my stash,so I'm gonna try it on both the new Revell kit, and an old Lindburg kit too. If I can make it work on that mess, it'll work on ANY old kit! Thanks Fletch, you REALLY did us a favor here! The thing about this process is that it will work on ANY coupe including 33/34, 36, 37, 40, 46-48 and 49 Fords amd Mercs. It will also work on 37, 51 Chevys and the 41 Plymouth. With slight variation it will also work on any of the "Fat Fender" era sedans as well. If you don't have access to the P/E circular blades it's not the end of the world, you'll just have to level the roof side-to-side and front-to-back. On the '40 coupes it makes no difference the manufacture of the kit it will work. I've used the same steps on an AMT, Lindberg and Revell kits, it work equally as well on them all. As I noted in the above post from Raul, if you're going to restore the drip rails make sure the Strip Styrene you use is fresh otherwise be prepared for your frustration level to go sky high as I will assure you it will fracture and break at every curve as soon as you apply the cement of your choice. If you have questions about chopping a '40 or any other please ask. Knowledge of the process is just wasted trivia if not shared. God Bless Dave Edited April 29, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 The thing about this process is that it will work on ANY coupe including 33/34, 36, 37, 40, 46-48 and 49 Fords amd Mercs. ... If Looks like a short list of future chops on my workbench! Hmmmmm.... I just got some of these blades. I've been practicing some minor cutting jobs before tackling a MAJOR CHOP. They work great and tend to enforce straight, clean work. Here's an internet source for them: https://www.missionmodels.com/home.php?cat=1073 Good price and prompt shipping, although the shipping charge neutralizes any benefit vs. your LHS (always buy from your LHS if you can!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Here's an internet source for them: https://www.missionmodels.com/home.php?cat=1073 Good price and prompt shipping, although the shipping charge neutralizes any benefit vs. your LHS (always buy from your LHS if you can!). Bernard, thank you for posting the link for the Voyager Models Blades. Keep in mind they come in Course and Fine blades. If you do not have a variable speed motor tool get the fine blades as the course blades will chew up plastic and your hands without mercy. And as Bernard indicated, ALWAYS, ALWAYS buy from your LHS is possible. As a former LHS manager I can tell you the dorrs don't stay open because of glue and magazine sales only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 I bought both coarse and fine in 25 mm. and fine in 30 mm diameters. They're also available in 36 mm diameter as well. So far I can't see why one would use anything but 25 mm. fine for 1/25-1/24 scale work. And ALWAYS, ALWAYS trade with your locally owned business, all things being equal (which I will admit sometimes it's not). (Paid political announcement - ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raul_Perez Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Raul, thank you again for the tips on the Willys-> Ford conversion. Besides by doing the '40 this way I'll be ahead of the 2010 Pacific NW NNL as the theme is "Yeah, It's got a Hemi!" Dave No problem, Dave!! Glad to help!! Is there a date/location set for the 2010 Pacific NW NNL? Have you already had one in '09? Later, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fletch Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 (edited) No problem, Dave!! Glad to help!! Is there a date/location set for the 2010 Pacific NW NNL? Have you already had one in '09? Later, The 2009 PNW NNL was back on the 18th. The date for the 2010 isn't set as of this moment as the Portland Roadster show's normal date was over booked so they are moving to April 16-18, 2010. Being SABA is the sponsor for the Bob Paeth Portland Classic Model Car Contest at the Roadster Show it would be a bit much to do both the BPPCMCC and the PNW NNL the same weekend. We're shooting for the third Saturday in March which would be the 20th. But, of course it all depends upon the Elks Lodge. If the 20th isn't available then latest we want the NNL is the 27th. That way we'll have a couple of weeks before the Roadster Show. The good thing about the change is we shouldn't have a conflict with the Western NNL in 2010. As soon as I get the word I'll post it on SABA's website it should be sometime in the next couple of weeks. http://www.sabanw.org Edited April 29, 2009 by Fletch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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