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32 Ford ... wide and low

Chop, or not??   30 votes

  1. 1. Chop this roof?

    • YES!
      20
    • NO!
      10

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16 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

I hadn't meant to put this bench hack up yet, but I'd like to solicit some opinions on the top chop. I originally meant to only section and channel and widen each fender but 3.5 inches. No top chop. Now I'm wondering if I should. I do still like the look of the tall roof, but it's just at the point that I've been staring at this too long and could use some feed back. So, here's a couple pics with no chop and a chop done in the Photoshop Body Shop. Also another at a better view with the fender width showing to balance the view. No chop in the 3/4 view.

Photo 1 - no Chop

32_NotChopped_DSC0781.jpg

Photo 2 - Chopped

32_Chopped_DSC0781.jpg

3/4 view.. guess I could have PS chopped this one without too much work, but for now it's not chopped.

32Fordwider_DSC0786.jpg

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Posted · Report post

This was a tough one. Normally, I all for chopping a '32 3 or 5 window coupe but, with all the additional body work you've done the stock height has a better look. The photo shopped version seems to take it out of reasonable scale. Without the section I'd say chop it. But, the additional body work would be lost if you were to chop it.

Move forward from where you are. IMHO

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Posted · Report post

Go with the chop Mike, it won't look so topheavy that way,just a more sleeker(if you can use that word with a 32 Ford)look to it. Looks good so far, I like it! :lol::P

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Posted · Report post

the original top looks way too formal. the chop looks great, only thing missing is a big, hairy forearm hanging out the window. :lol:

great idea and excellent execution.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Yet another variation! Keep almost everything you've got, but don't chop the grill quite so much so the valence of the shell shows below the axle line. It looks KILLER in 3/4 view. See?:

32Fordwider_DSC0786chopped.jpg

(My chop may be slightly milder than yours, which may argue for the in between approach)

Edited by gbk1

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Posted · Report post

i would go even more agressive, and drop the front of the roof to the level in the chop

and then decrease the slope of it towrds the back, so that the roofline will be horiziontal

(cant photosoup it but i can invision it)

i think that would look awesome

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Posted · Report post

I would definately chop the top. Also, Bernard made a very good point about not sectioning the radiator shell so much. His version gives the front end a much more aggressive look that flows with the rest of the bodywork way better.

Otherwise, awesome bodywork you've done so far!

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Posted · Report post

Chop the top...just don't chop it so much..maybe a scale 2 inches or so.

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Posted · Report post

IMO there IS a point where chopping, channeling, and sectioning stops being about improving the look of the automobile and becomes about the builder flexing his bodywork muscles. I'm speaking in terms of 1:1 mind you. At some point the car stops looking cool and becomes a caricature of a car. That seems to have become a bit of a trend in some circles but it's not for me.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I really appreciate EVERYONE'S input on this. I was at that infamous wall and needed a nudge. I pretty much agree on the prevailing opinion that a chop somewhere between the versions I showed is the way to go.

The grill chop which gbk1 showed a restoration of really opened my eyes. That does look so much better than what I did. I had thought cutting the grill down that much would reflect the cuts on the body, but not so. This body is the ancient reissued AMT one I had as a kid, so looks like the Revell kit I'm using for the chassis will now be donating a grill also.

IMO there IS a point where chopping, channeling, and sectioning stops being about improving the look of the automobile and becomes about the builder flexing his bodywork muscles. I'm speaking in terms of 1:1 mind you. At some point the car stops looking cool and becomes a caricature of a car. That seems to have become a bit of a trend in some circles but it's not for me.

Most of the time I do agree with you, Rob, though sometimes you just have to step outside the box and do something you normally wouldn't to break out the rut you're modeling down to the sparse grass and pebble grains. I've been mostly doing cars I've owned and, while I love doing this, I needed something different to play with. I did a scale 48" high 40 Ford Sedan in 1962 at age 16 and have nothing to prove, but I'm still learning and I model just what makes me happy. Contests aren't my thing.. VERY few people have actually seen anything I've built, but I am REALLY enjoying going on display HERE and not being worried about what I show. I always loved getting those oldies down low and this one was inspired by a car not far from me that was driven on the road since it's inception in the early 50's, now owned by Skip Rapp

Sectioned_nat533.jpg

Sectioned_nat534.jpg

This car has an interesting history, all the more being a New England car .. NOT SoCal .. ehhe

Edited by Foxer

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Posted · Report post

Being a east coaster..I LOVE the east coast look..channeled and/or sectioned with a non chop roof, awesome! :)

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Posted · Report post

...looks like the Revell kit I'm using for the chassis will now be donating a grill also. ...

Sectioned_nat534.jpg

... being a New England car .. NOT SoCal.. ehhe

East Coast baby, yeah!!!

Re: the grill shell - Replicas & Miniatures makes a lovely 2" chop shell with p/e grill that would work. Also ditto Model Car Garage in a 6" version. It would save massive amounts of work & look great. One thing to worry about, though, and that's the actual shape of the grille shell and the mating to the hood. But with your bodywork chops maybe that's not such a big deal...

Can;t wait to see more!

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Posted · Report post

One suggestio. The running boards on the black coupe are closer to the ground. If you can get those running boards on your model closer to the ground it will make the whole model click!

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Posted · Report post

One suggestio. The running boards on the black coupe are closer to the ground. If you can get those running boards on your model closer to the ground it will make the whole model click!

That's bringing up another problem I'm having with this. The tires are from a Prowler .. defiantly BIG and little to an extreme. The rear fender is still loose in the pics and will raise slightly when attached to the body but the rear tire is controlling the stance. A rake is fine with me, but beginning to rethink tire choices.

Front axle extensions aren't on in the photos but the tires will be wider at the edge of the fenders.

Fenders heights ARE the limit as far as getting it lower. Only choice for more is the tires.

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Posted · Report post

I have watched this one and I have a little different perspective on this one.

as I solved this question with a diff twist:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...hl=topless+turd

and did a sectioned pickup...

IMG_0678.jpg

the issue with this one is the section removes a bunch of interior room and chopping only adds to that.

In a 1:1 car that means no room for things like knees and heads if your taller than 4'10"!!!

I try to think of the driver even in scale.....

:lol: So for the first time I've ever said this No Chop B)

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Posted · Report post

IMG_0678.jpg

the issue with this one is the section removes a bunch of interior room and chopping only adds to that.

In a 1:1 car that means no room for things like knees and heads if your taller than 4'10"!!!

I try to think of the driver even in scale.....

:lol: So for the first time I've ever said this No Chop B)

hehe .. Isn't that what Big 'n Little means .. the big guy rides in the rumble seat and the little guy drives

I see that pickup could have dropped lower if you wanted with those tires. Think I'm in a tire hangup.

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