GTmike400 Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 If I may ask Mike, what kind of training and or schooling do you have. It seems to incorporate many different aspects of design and fabrication. Hey Jay, I don't have any formal training or schooling. I've just been figuring things out as I go, sometimes through books and discussions with other people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09WNS/14BRK Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 looking great mate sweet work going good on this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Today I took a break from working on the engine block. Decided to work on something different - the doors. Unfortunately when I cut out the doors out, one of the passenger side window frames warped, so I'm going to attempt to build the doors out of brass now. Not only will the window frames be stronger in brass, but the door skins will also be a more accurately scaled. I first made a steel form to shape the brass over, then proceeded to anneal the brass. Annealing the brass with a torch. The steel form used to shape the brass over. Thanks for looking, hope to get back to the engine block this week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks for the support. Today I had some time to work on the engine block today. Just started machining out the area for the mains. First I used a center drill to position the beginning of the hole accurately and precisely. I use a drill that was slightly under-size. Drill bits tend to drill over-size in metal, so using a smaller drill bit is usually a safer route. Once the girdle is machined I will clamp it to the block and line bore the mains with a reamer. Using a 1/8" end mill I started to remove material for the mains and girdle. Enjoy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09WNS/14BRK Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 great work still mate keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobrit Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Truely incredible work. The dedication speaks for itself. (I cannot wait to see the gearbox). Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 What octane is this thing going to use? Just kidding. Great work, Mike! Keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sickfish Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Mike...you trully are thee Essence of Dedication, my friend...trully! Cheer's Cliff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKIN10SECS Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 (edited) Mike if I may....the block, did you make it where it is possible to secure it from the top and the bottom for machining? Also could you go a little bit more into the annealing process.... such as how hot does the brass have to be, do you need to cool the metal, if not, when it comes time to form the brass, how do you go about handling the hot metal to form such items as a wheel tub? Any info greatly appreciated. I really enjoy this post;) Thanks Edited February 17, 2010 by BKIN10SECS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 Mike if I may....the block, did you make it where it is possible to secure it from the top and the bottom for machining? Also could you go a little bit more into the annealing process.... such as how hot does the brass have to be, do you need to cool the metal, if not, when it comes time to form the brass, how do you go about handling the hot metal to form such items as a wheel tub? Any info greatly appreciated. I really enjoy this post;) Thanks Jay, no problem. Questions are fun to answer. The block has #4-40 threads through the entire block, that allows me to secure it right-side-up and upside-down on the fixture plate. The fixture plate is a must for machining something with such weird shapes and nowhere to pull a positive dimension other than the bores. Annealing is a process of normalizing the crystallization structure in the material. To anneal brass and copper a torch can be used to heat it. I used oxy-acetylene because it was available, but Butane, Propane, or MAPP will work just as well. When heating the material, be patient, if you heat it too fast you'll warp it or blow a hole in it. Heat it slowly and constantly move the heat around over the piece so that the entire piece is heating evenly. Continue the heating process until the material starts to become a dark cherry red (like in the pic above). Keep in mind it will not stay red hot for long at all, so just move the heat around (or you'll distort the material). Once you have evenly heated the entire piece back the heat away. Do NOT quench the material, let it air cool. Now you can work the piece pretty easily! Hope that helps, Jay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKIN10SECS Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 Mike I truely hope to meet you one day. You have been very open and helpfull with all of the info you have provided me and others. Man...would I like to sit down with you in front of a lathe/mill and computer (3d renderings) for about a month or two Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Last week I finally had a great opportunity to get some work done on the motor. Over the years I have remained in touch with my old high school engineering teacher, so in exchange for guest speaking in his classes I get to use the CNC mill on occasion. I used the CNC mill this passed week to machine out the crankcase. I’ll let the pictures to the talking: Roughing pass. The first roughing pass. After investing so much time in the block, I like to always double check my tool paths. I marked the block with a marker, then ran the tool path removing only .0005" to make sure it was where it needed to be. Finishing pass. After over 6.5hours of run time: Just a size comparison next to a US 1cent. I know the question is going to be asked, "Wont this all be covered?", and the answer is that I do not know yet. Right now its just a fun challenge for myself to expand my capability. Enjoy. Mike I truely hope to meet you one day. You have been very open and helpfull with all of the info you have provided me and others. Man...would I like to sit down with you in front of a lathe/mill and computer (3d renderings) for about a month or two Thanks Not a problem, I hope to meet you too one day, Jay. Hopefully at the NNL South in November! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 It's a Mitsubishi motor. You have to expect to see inside the block when it throws a rod or the flywheel/clutch breaks apart, so you have to detail all that ;) *runs/hides from all the Mitsubishi fanatics ready to hit me with the flamethrowers* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karmodeler2 Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Hey Mike, First off, thanks for the phone call today. I was in class and could not answer. I can see from the pics that your work continues to improve and only make Dirk and I shake our heads at your talent. Very impressive. Am I correct in assuming that because you are spending so much time with the mill, that you have not had enough time to work on that book? David Really nice engineering and machine work!! I hope to see some of this in Nov!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Keeps me wanting to see more. Great job so far, Mike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 Thought I'd take a break from the work bench and post a quick update. The other night I was in the shop until the early hours of the morning drilling a bunch of tiny holes and working on adding the block deck, as well as the front and rear plates. The first thing I did was solder a piece of .020" (.5mm) nickel silver sheet on the block. This will form the block deck. After soldering I began to drill holes using a .5mm drill with the sensitive drilling attachment for the coolant jackets and the head studs. After drilling I used a small 4 flute end mill to rough the block deck to size. I still need to be able to bolt the block upside down to my fixture plate for a few more machining operations so I plunged into the cylinder bores just enough to get to the threads. Using files, sand paper, and lots of beer I began to shape the block deck to the correct profile. The side closest in the pic is the finished profile. The opposite side still needs to be shaped, the pink markings are to indicate where to remove material. Once all the machining is complete I will remove .005" from the block deck to achieve the correct thickness. Now back to the bench to work on the ribbing and external bungs. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Rogers Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 THAT IS AMAZING!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScrappyJ Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Ditto!!! Mike- You continue to amaze me with your exquisite talents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Sauber Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I'm assuming this will have a fully balanced rotating assembly....... complete with bearings, pistons/rings, crankshaft, and main caps.....as well as a working cam/valve train? The transmission work should be interesting as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RodneyBad Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 WOW!! That is Just too Much.. Awesome work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mooneyzs Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 Wow, I am blown away. that is some awesome work right there. Great job on the machining. That looks soooo good!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTmike400 Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 Thanks for the kind remarks, guys. I'm assuming this will have a fully balanced rotating assembly....... complete with bearings, pistons/rings, crankshaft, and main caps.....as well as a working cam/valve train? The transmission work should be interesting as well. That is what I will attempt to do, keyword being attempt. It wont have bearings though, due to the tiny size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKIN10SECS Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Hmmmmm, sensitive drilling attachment, check your message box buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seeker589 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I was surfing and found some inspiration. I just did a search for "evo V time attack". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) Thank you for taking the time to document and share your project. This is the kind of work that inspires us all to step up our game and realize that there are no limits if you're willing to challenge yourself and invest the time. I'm truly enjoying following along your process of overcoming problems and engineering solutions that are on display in this thread. cheers Edited March 4, 2010 by Alyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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