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Model Wax "The Final Detail"


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My local hobby shop closed late last year and I have gone to others near by but no one has this stuff. The Treatment MOdeal Wax "The Final Detail". Love this stuff but I need some more. Does anybody know where I can get it online? I came in a 1 oz jar with a yellow label. I looked at MicroMaerk website but the do not have it. Any help would be appericated.

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My local hobby shop closed late last year and I have gone to others near by but no one has this stuff. The Treatment MOdeal Wax "The Final Detail". Love this stuff but I need some more. Does anybody know where I can get it online? I came in a 1 oz jar with a yellow label. I looked at MicroMaerk website but the do not have it. Any help would be appericated.

try redfroghobbies.com thats where i get mine, super nice ppl and fast shipping.

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The Treatment is simply very overpriced soft carnuba wax. Go to any auto supply store and buy a lifetime supply (if you only use it for models) of carnuba wax in one tin.

Exactly. "The Treatment" comes in a 1 ounce container for $3-$4... that's about $50-$60 per pound!

If you already use carnauba wax on your "real" car, use it on your models, too... it's the same thing as The Treatment (carnauba wax).

If not, check out the wax aisle at any auto parts store and you'll find a bunch of different brands of carnauba wax, all selling for a lot less than $50 a pound... and you can use it on your models and your real cars.

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The Treatment is simply very overpriced soft carnuba wax. Go to any auto supply store and buy a lifetime supply (if you only use it for models) of carnuba wax in one tin.

I would like to add a warning here: Some carnauba wax (don't know if they all do) you use on 1:1 cars contain some kind of solvent, possibly naphta or something similar. This won't make a difference on lacquers, but you can end up with an awful mess if you use the wrong kind of carnauba wax on enamels. Don't ask me how I know.

I use enamels for all my models, and I always polish them with The Treatment. $4 ain't that bad for something that you really know will work without any headaches.

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Guys...you can blame me if you wish. I was the one responsibile for getting model car builders to start using "The Treatment".

"The Treatment" was sold at the ISCA hot rod shows in the mid 1970's (as a wax for 1/1 scale exhibitors at the shows) when I was competing against Bruce and others at the national level of the MPC Customizing CHampionship.

I bought some (probably at the 1975 Cobo Autorama) and quickly determined - as noted above - that it worked really well on enamels as well as lacquers.

I have used it ever since and still do to this day. I mentioned it in my Street Rodder Modelers Corner, and probably in some of my Scale Auto articles. Around 1987, the owners of Thompson International, makers of the Treatment, contacted me directly and offered to pay me to "endorse" the wax, which I refused to do. They couldn't understand my reasoning and they weren't very happy with me. (I just didn't feel right doing a professional endorsement - but I still thought they had a great product). But that's when I knew that I was no longer the only modeler using it. Not long thereafter "The Treatment" Model Car Wax appeared - same stuff, just in a smaller container.

Fast forward to today. I'm sure there are great 100% carnauba waxes at the car store. But I';m quite happy with The Treatment, as I find it's very soft consistency to be helpful for model bodies, and it still manages to add more shine, every time, even to my very best paint jobs.

So now you know the story - and as I said, blame me if you wish.

Cheers...TIM

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The only thing I would blame Tim Boyd for is inspiring and encouraging modellers for the last 30+ years. the price of the treatment is roughly 4 or 5 bucks for an ounce well my bottle lasted at least 7 years so I fail to see the merit in buying carnuba wax in bulk if I won't use it plus who wants a pound of car wax sitting in their tool box where space is at a preimium any way ?the size of the container is a plus and the product works ,so what's 5 bucks every 7 years?

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My best friend from High School now runs a Body Shop and he used to carry "the treatment" wax for 1:1 autos. I realized that this was the same wax I had purchased previously (at a hobby shop) in a much smaller bottle for 4 times the price ! I purchased a large container of this stuff for 1:1's almost 8years ago and I still have plenty left. I personally favor Novus #2 and #1 polish over the carnuba waxes in most (but not all) cases now.

Chris

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I bought a big tube of The Treatment back when I first heard about it, and tried it on a couple paintjobs and it caused a chemical reaction to some of my enamel and softened the paint; made it cloudy and difficult to polish back to a high shine.

I already had started using Novus #2 by that point, and I stayed with that for my enamel paintjobs and never looked back. Most of what I shoot today is clearcoated w/Tamiya TS13, and Tamiya compounds are by far the best for it. Quite a timesaver and excellent results.

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Zoom Zoom, had you tried Finisher's 3 step compounds?...

Simón P. Rivera Torres

I bought a big tube of The Treatment back when I first heard about it, and tried it on a couple paintjobs and it caused a chemical reaction to some of my enamel and softened the paint; made it cloudy and difficult to polish back to a high shine.

I already had started using Novus #2 by that point, and I stayed with that for my enamel paintjobs and never looked back. Most of what I shoot today is clearcoated w/Tamiya TS13, and Tamiya compounds are by far the best for it. Quite a timesaver and excellent results.

Edited by simonr
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Looks like there's lot's of opinions here, so I guess I'll add my 2cents worth for whatever it's worth :lol:

Not an expert anymore than anyone else here, so I'll just share with you what I do and what products I use, and let you decide.

These are what I use in the pic below. Novus Plastic Polish #2, from the plastic finishing industry is what I use first to smooth everything out. Then I use Finessette II Finishing material from the auto paint industry, which is finer, and adds more luster and smoothness.

REMEMBER - NEITHER OF THESE IS A WAX AND HAVE NO WAX IN THEM - MERELY FOR POLISHING.

THE THIRD PRODUCT IS A WAX - THE Meguiar's Show Glaze, used on 1 to 1 show cars, different than Bill Geary uses, but in the same family, is definitly an extremely good wax. A good quality wax is important, because wax seals the paint surface and brings out it's brillance. Again though, it's about your personal choice and what works for you, not always about using what anyone of us say, including me.

Good luck on your choices - dave :lol:

2009_0624Photobucket10021.jpg

Here's a car I finished recently using this system.

Photobucket2008245.jpg

Edited by Treehugger Dave
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Zoom Zoom, had you tried Finisher's 3 step componds?...

Nope, I haven't. Considering how good the results are w/the Tamiya compounds, which I just bought more of (due to nearly empty tubes of coarse and fine), I doubt I'll get a chance to try Finisher's unless I know someone local who has some. If I'm buffing out automotive clear, I use Meguiars/3M products to great results, and Testors enamels buff out beautifully w/both Novus #2 and Meguiars Scratch X.

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Really enjoyed hearing the different views here on this, and don't expect any of us to have the "final word" on this topic....here's my response to some of the points made...

- Bob, I once encountered a similar experience with The Treatment on Testors enamel....concluded that the finish hadn't "hardened" yet. Since then I let the paint dry a few weeks, and have not had a problem again. In fact, I am sometimes amazed at how good old fashioned enamel paint jobs can become with the a coat or two of this wax.

- I've had bottles of Novus 2 and 1 sitting on my hobby desk for years but I've never used them....will give them a try after hearing the first hand endorsements here from modelers that I really respect.

- I have used Meguiar's Show Glaze #7 (and its predecessor product) for a couple of decades now based on a recommendation from my buddy Mark Gustavson. I find it especially helpful on dark paint jobs that have been rubbed out (in terms of hiding the rub out marks and adding depth to the finish). But (and I realize this may be my imagination actively at work), it seems that a final coat of the Treatment adds even more gloss and depth.

- Dave, personally I wouldn't try any wax over delicate decals like those from Kieth. I've found that even the best pure was (e.g. non-abrasive was) can still act as a rubbing compound of sorts, and it sounds like that is what happened here. Would be interesting to know if you've had success waxing over Kieth's decals with another product...

- Bob, I've already come to the same conclusion as you about the Tamiya rubbing compounds....they are a really superior product and I am using them now on almost every paint job. And like you've already concluded, I am also slowly coming to the conclusion that Tamiya TS13 is the best hobby Clear out there....I still have problems with the Testors One Coat and Model Masters Lacquer Clears sometimes imbedding aerosol bubbles in the clear topcoat if I get just a touch too close to the body or load up just a little too much on the final wet coat. Have not had that experience with TS13 and am also finding it to have what I think is a slightly higher level of gloss. But (sorry to sound like a broken record here), the Treatment as the final touch to a Tamiya rubbed-out TS13 overcoat works great for me.

- Thanks everyone for your views...I've printed out this thread and stuck in it in my hobby technique notebook....looking forward to trying that Novus #2.

TIM

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- Bob, I've already come to the same conclusion as you about the Tamiya rubbing compounds....they are a really superior product and I am using them now on almost every paint job. And like you've already concluded, I am also slowly coming to the conclusion that Tamiya TS13 is the best hobby Clear out there....I still have problems with the Testors One Coat and Model Masters Lacquer Clears sometimes imbedding aerosol bubbles in the clear topcoat if I get just a touch too close to the body or load up just a little too much on the final wet coat. Have not had that experience with TS13 and am also finding it to have what I think is a slightly higher level of gloss. But (sorry to sound like a broken record here), the Treatment as the final touch to a Tamiya rubbed-out TS13 overcoat works great for me.

- Thanks everyone for your views...I've printed out this thread and stuck in it in my hobby technique notebook....looking forward to trying that Novus #2.

TIM

Tim, interesting...I have always pushed the boundaries so perhaps the enamel I was buffing was too fresh. Not sure if I know where that old black tube of The Treatment might be.

Tamiya's own liquid wax is a great final detailer for most of their colors...but really dark colors I get the best results w/a little Meguiars cleaner/wax cut with a bit of their liquid quick detailer. That seems to get all the haze out and give a mirror-shine. You have to use a very soft and clean polishing cloth if you want that ultra mirror-like finish. I love Tamiya TS black, it's a true black...Testors looks like a dark brown by comparison. Lighter colors are a lot less hassle and work to look good.

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