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Using liquid mask


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Ive used Parma's before with mixed results and the microscales micro mask. It is good stuff but takes practice to get it to work exactly like you want it to.It needs a brand new #11 blade to cut it make sure it drys good before trying to cut it .I apply it with a soft brush and in several coats and let it dry over night to be safe.I hopr this helps and good luck.

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Thanks Earnest...I picked up some Bob Divelys a while back and Tim Boyds firebird build got me looking at wheels.

Took a set of my favorite big n littles T's by pegasis, film , and Tamiya smoke .

Before:IMG_1100.jpg

During masking:

IMG_1101.jpg

After :IMG_1102.jpg

Before and After:IMG_1103.jpg

Poor pix as my stand is down today....but not too bad first try.

Edited by MikeMc
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Hey Mike, guys, I've never used any of this here liquid mask on any models-- but probably will soon--'specially after seeing your wheels-- :angry: Awesome!

I also do some art painting on papers and have used a similar (if not the same) type of liquid masking for watercolor painting. Just wanted to add a possible tip for applying the masking which may work on our models: I use the long bamboo wooden skewers (from the supermarket) for a lot of things. One painting I was doing required the liquid masking be put on a very small area and the smallest brush I was using still wasn't small enuff :lol: ... so I grabbed me one of those wooden skewers, whittled the end down to the size I needed and made it kinda like a chisel point. Just dipped it in the liqid mask and didn't put too much on, then pretty much just touched it to the paper and moved it around to just where I wanted it. It worked great for applying the mask, almost like using a fountain pen. Can't see why it wouldn't do the same on a 1/25 car body. Hope that helps B)

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Great job on the TT's Mike.I have that same bottle of mask and have not tried it yet,I want to do the same thing with a few sets of my wheels.How long is the drying time and what color did you use for the spokes,look's like gunmetal from Tamiya.How long do I wait to unmask after the paint is put on.TIA

Dry time is a couple of hours per coat. (brushed on). Paint is Tamiya Smoke lacquer,3 thin coats. with lacquer I wait 20 to 30 min to unmask.

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I use mostly Microscale Micromask. It's fine with solvent-based paints, but since it's water soluble, it doesn't play well with acrylics.

It's easy to apply, but it can be tricky to remove if it gets down into crevices. So don't use it over bent PE or other fine detail. It can also be hard to tell a masked area from an area that you were intending to paint. On more than one occasion, I've managed to scratch perfectly good paint thinking I was removing liquid masking stuff. Ruined my day.

Ddms

Edited by Ddms
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I brushed this product on but the label said to airbrush it ..thin with water...as I was doing wheels it went smoothly.

The mask is blue when wet and drys clear. in cracks and crevices I would put it on thick...very thick..it should pull off quite well

I will do some more wheels and underhood details....neat stuff.

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I brushed this product on but the label said to airbrush it ..thin with water...as I was doing wheels it went smoothly.

The mask is blue when wet and drys clear. in cracks and crevices I would put it on thick...very thick..it should pull off quite well

I will do some more wheels and underhood details....neat stuff.

By "this product" I assume you mean Parma. I've used it too, and I think you're unduly optimistic about the ease of removing it from cracks and crevices, but let us know how that works out for you.

There's no doubt that some situations require liquid mask; that's why I have about ten bottles of the stuff. But I've never fallen in love with any of it.

Ddms

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