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Major primer problem!


remingtonbox

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Well... this isn't the way I wanted to start my first WIP post but...

Our club meeting is in two weeks and I want to take the Bug that I am working on but this happened when I sprayed the primer:

bug1.jpg

bug2.jpg

bug3.jpg

bug4.jpg

First of all, what in the world happened and how do I fix it? I am using Rustoleum primer as the nearest "L"HS is 2½ hours away.

Secondly, I used 3-4 very light mist coats... and let it dry about 15-30 minutes between coats. Please help! This project is about to meet the business end of a sledge hammer!

I tried to strip it in DOT3... but the brake fluid didn't even touch it... is it a plastic problem?

As a last resort, does anyone have a body from the Gunze Sanyo kit that I can buy from them?

Thanks a million!!!!!

Remington

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I'm not sure which rustoleum you used but I would recommend duplicolor or plasticote sandable primers available at your local autoparts store.also try superclean for removing unwanted paint.as for what to do now try sanding it out use small pieces of 400 to 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper also available at the auto parts store .when you get a chance check out some of the hobby sites for a polishing kit it has sandpaper grits from 2400 up to 12000 that you use to smooth out paint .I use the 2400 to 3600 grits to go over primer in between coats to keep it all smooth as you improve your painting techniques this process will be less important but starting out it helps a lot. also several companies make the same polishing grits in sanding pads which are also helpful. as to what happened it looks like the primer dries fast or was not dry enough and maybe the can was too far away.hope this helps.

Edited by randx0
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O.K. I'll throw in my 2 cents. I'm guessing you held the can too far away and the primer partially dried before it hit the body, or the humidity could have been too high.

I also guess that this can of primer might be old and deteriorating. Did you shake it upreal good? Was the temperature in the room/outside above 65 degrees? Did you warm the can of primer before spraying?

Gary

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Try using "Super Clean" (the purple stuff) leaving it soak for at least 48 hours. It may need a scrubbing with an old toothbrush.

I avoid any Rustoleum products. It's not made for plastic; I have never seen plastic "rust", with maybe the exception of ###### Cranky's kits :lol:

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Rustoleum is a thick paint to begin with and it looks like you may have put on too many coats. One was drying while the other was being put on and the bubbles are from the off gassing from the drying paint. Like said in the previous post, try to stick with automotive lacquers like Duplicolor and Plasticote. As for getting it off, soak it in either 90% alcohol or try using Castrol Super Clean. Another product I've had really good results with is called Scalecoat II. If you can find it, it works really well. I hope you're able to get the paint off.

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As I haven't a clue as to what you did to get here, I'd pick a spot and sand through the primer with around 600 sandpaper to see if it's just paint or if the plastic was attacked.

If the plastic was attacked, you're SOL, as the body is ruined. As far as stripper to use fot Rustolium I haven't a clue - never used Rustoleum primers.

Like the guy's said here, use DUPLICOLOR OR PLASTICOTE in the future. Some here seem to have pretty good luck with Tamiya's primers also.

Personally, I like Duplicolor primer and have had no problems with the one I've used for decades.

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First off let me say sorry to hear of such a f'ed up situation. No worries it can be saved.

It brake fluid didn't work I'd be very surprised if Super Clean will do anything, the primer is lacquer based.

Before you go to all the trouble of sanding the body go out and get yourself some Easy-Off in the yellow spray pump bottle, a couple of bottles. Empty the bottle into a conatiner just big enouogh fore the bug and fill it with the

Easy Off. Leave it in there for 24-48hrs, the plastic won't be harmed. Plus if you go this route you'll have a chrome removal bath as well.

I just just removed automotive lacquer for a 1/16 scale Charger that had so much paint on it the panel lines were, filled and the script was almost flush with the body. The paint had been on for along time 'cause the lady said her son built it when he was a kid, he's in his 40's now. I had picked it up at garage sale.

For me it took about a month to get the paint off, mostly because I only sprayed the body once a day instead of soaking it. In the second picture you can see how thick the paint was, that row of bumps are supposed to be rivet heads.

Just as an added FYI I still have to get the primer off.

Good luck man hope you get it resolved.

post-3536-1254158165_thumb.jpg

post-3536-1254158176_thumb.jpg

Edited by Plastic Freak
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Well...

I got some 90.5% alcohol just now... but it doesnt cover the bug in the container. I have a lid but does the item you are trying to strip have to be completely covered?

Thanks so so so so much for all the help. I would have bought some super clean but the nearest place that carries it is 30-45 minutes away.

I hope this works!

Remington

On a total side note... how do the pictures (except the last one) look? I am trying to get to the point of ###### Cranky, Bill Geary and others on this board that have photography skills to die for.

Edited by remingtonbox
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Well...

I got some 90.5% alcohol just now... but it doesnt cover the bug in the container. I have a lid but does the item you are trying to strip have to be completely covered?

Thanks so so so so much for all the help. I would have bought some super clean but the nearest place that carries it is 30-45 minutes away.

I hope this works!

Remington

On a total side note... how do the pictures (except the last one) look? I am trying to get to the point of Clay, Dave and others on this board that have photography skills to die for.

I haven't used the alcohol but when using chemicals it should be covered to prevent dangerous situations.

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Not to sound like a dic but, your spinning your wheels with the alcohol, the primer is solvent based, alcohol won't do a thing.

The Easy- Off WILL WORK and you'll be back to square on in a couple of hours. I sprayed my Charger when I posted and almost all of the primer is off.

I hope you get this sorted out.

Cheers,

Curt

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Not to sound like a dic but, your spinning your wheels with the alcohol, the primer is solvent based, alcohol won't do a thing.

The Easy- Off WILL WORK and you'll be back to square on in a couple of hours. I sprayed my Charger when I posted and almost all of the primer is off.

I hope you get this sorted out.

Cheers,

Curt

So this Easy Off... do you get it at Safeway or ALCO? Those are my two options...

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Safeway should have it, just ask where the oven cleaner is, any brand should work as long as it's the heavy duty version. Try not to get it in a spray can tho, the fumes are very toxic.

Let us know how you make out. Good luck.

I didn't know they were making it in spray bottles now? Duly noted. I stopped using it because of the stink and toxicity.

Good to know.

Charlie Larkin

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Well, so far so good... I scrubbed it a little last night and a lot of the primer came off. I resoaked it today and I hope I can prime tonight with some Plasticote.

Thank you so so so so so so much for all the help!

Remington

No problem, that's what makes the on-line community go 'round knowing you can turn to it for help.

I just finished peeling, yes peeling, more paint off the Charger hood. I still have a large section on a corner and also an area on the body where the hood latch would be.

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