1972 Hurst Olds - FINISHED!

[Len Carsner]

Sorry for the long pause between my last post and this one, I hope the next will be a little quicker in getting here.

The Olds is getting our full attention, so let's jump in.

On some recent releases by Revell there has been some concern raised over parting lines and mold lines that must be dealt with during prep for painting. I'm pleased to report that there appears to be no issue with this body. Every line is crisp, every corner sharp, and up to this point I haven't found any casting lines to deal with. Quite possibly one of the best we've had in quite some time.

While I'm wet sanding mine in preparation for paint Bill will continue with his build and review.

For sometime now I’ve been using Plasti-Kote T-236 black primer whenever I need a flat black paint color. The 13 oz spray can goes a long way. It also allows me to adjust the tone of the primer with various clear sprays like Dull, Semi-Gloss and Gloss to achieve just the right look for the application. Shown here is the chassis painted with Testors Panzer Gray and interior platform shot with T-236 black primer.

Since the transmission tunnel in the interior platform is exposed, I masked off the front inner fender panels to spray the area shown to match up with the chassis floor pan.

Once the underside of the interior platform was dry, I masked-off that area as shown and gave the flat black front inner fender panels a light coat of Testors Semi-Gloss clear.

Testors Metalizers are ideal for getting that look of metal for items like the automatic and manual transmission cases as well as the tail pipes and mufflers as shown here.

It’s a good idea to organize parts that get painted like colors making the process much easier to accomplish. That’s especially true for those fiddling little detail accessories like the one pictured here. A clean piece of cardboard, a few curls of painters tape and a section of paper towel and you’re ready to paint those little pieces whatever color or shade is required. Metalizers dry especially fast so to do multiple applications, spray one set, wait a bit, cover up the painted parts and they’re protected from the next batch you’ll be doing in another color or shade of paint.

The level of detail on this new Revell 72 Olds Cutlass is extensive and keeping track of everything could be a nightmare. But that doesn’t need to be the case if you organize all the various parts by tree and/or function as shown here. Also note that many of the parts groups were left on their respective trees and painted in mass.

There are four (okay 5) body related parts to be primed in preparation for the final color coat. They included the body shell, hood, grill divider and the pair of outside rearview mirrors. After light sanding with 600 wet/dry automotive paper, a few generous coats of Plasti-Kote T-235 primer were applies. Once dry to the touch, the individual parts were positioned on sections of wax paper to thoroughly cure out.

If I have any criticism concerning this new Olds kit it’s the tires. I know there are intellectual properties issues and licensing restrictions to be considered. But these oversized O-rings have absolutely zero sidewall detail. Even a shoulder would help give some character. To add a bit of life to these four black donuts, I applied Shabo dry transfer lettering (of a forbidden trade mark brand) as show here. For such things, preparation included wiping each sidewall with a bit of lacquer thinner before rubbing off and burnishing the lettering in place as depicted here.

We'll end here for now and be back by the weekend with another update. Hopefully we'll have some paint on the bodies and maybe an engine to show.

Thanks for looking and thanks to all for your comments.

Bill and Len

Edited December 24, 2009 by Len Carsner

[camaroman]

Looking forward to this BuildUp...

glenn

[george 53]

Oh YEAH!!! Now the Bill & Len Show begins in earnest!!!!

[VW Dave]

Looking forward to this BuildUp...

glenn

Except for the 'glenn' part , you took the words right outta my mouse.

[MyBradKeselowski]

I like what I'm seeing

I can't wait to see the color.

Let me guess---White? Gold? Blue? or Black?

Oh heck just surprise me...

[KDog]

Nice looking kit ! But one thing I want to know is... why you & Bill have all the fun ?

[MrObsessive]

Great work so far guys! I'm glad that they molded the windshield frame separate from the rest of the body.

Nothing's more irritating than a bent windshield frame---------no kind of bending/shaping will ever get it right if it happens!

[Merkur XR4Ti]

Great start! I'm anxiously awaiting the next installment.

[Len Carsner]

Nice looking kit ! But one thing I want to know is... why you & Bill have all the fun ?

I would say its because I've lived a clean, honest life but anyone who knows me knows that's a crock!

[Len Carsner]

Big update today as the build continues.

Dupli-Color GM Pure White lacquer automotive paint was chosen for the body color on this Cutlass. Once thoroughly cured, the body, hood, outside mirrors and center grill piece got a generous coating of Testors Ultra Gloss Clearcoat lacquer.

A Micro-Gloss polishing kit was used to bring out the shine on this Cutlass body and hood. A few drops of dish-washing detergent in the water will cushion the automotive wet/dry sand paper. Numbers 4,000, 6,000 and 12,000 sand paper along with the kit Polish brought out the sheen in the lacquer clearcoat. Hold off on the wax until after decals are applied. Decals don’t stick well to waxed surfaces.

The level of detail to the top portion of the engine compartment attached to the Cutlass body needs careful attention. Using BareMetal foil and Sherwin-Williams yellow Suretape the area as shown was masked off for painting.

Here a generous coating of matt black was applied to the exposed engine compartment configuration.

Once the painted area was nearly dry, all the masking materials were carefully and slowly removed being cautious not to pull paint away from any surface.

The chassis/frame platform having been painted Testors Panzer Gray earlier, frame detail was highlighted by hand with a 3-0 brush and Testors Black Chrome. Don’t sweat it if you get “outside the linesâ€. Simply spray some of the Panzer Gray into a can lid and using a 5-0 brush carefully touch up the edges and parting lines.

With the engine and transmission being tooled as separate pieces, painting is made much easier. Here Testors Oldsmobile Engine Blue is being applied to the Cutlass 455 block, pan, heads and valve covers. Note that the job is being accomplished in two steps. The automatic trans mission was spray painted Testors Metalizer Stainless Steel then the pan was brush painted Metalizer Aluminum.

Using either Testors bottle Aluminum, Steel or Black Chrome, using a piece of wax paper as a pallet, can be mixed in various metallic shades to highlight the front suspension parts like sway bar and steering arms as shown here. The Cutlass lower suspension is nicely detailed and thankfully molded as one unitl making it easier to assemble and detail paint.

While the painted front suspension assembly thoroughly dries, carefully scrape away any primer or paint at the various contact points in preparation for gluing the front suspension in place.

Before permanently attaching assemblies in place a quick test fit is a good idea.

Continues in next post...

Edited November 24, 2009 by Len Carsner

[Len Carsner]

continues...

Using Testors Aluminum Metalizer bottle paint, the gas tank was painted as shown here. Note the hanger straps, which were painted Steel for contrast.

Here the rear axle/suspension assembly was painted and placed in their proper locations for a trial fit. In this instance the standard rear axle/differential cover was used along with the upper and lower control arms. The optional W-27 rear axle and alloy differential cover are optional features though not mentioned in this kits instruction sheet.

Once all assemblies are painted and test fit into position, the overall chassis layout should look like this. Note that the dual exhaust system as not been put in place as this stage. The test fit suspension assemblies will be removed for installation of the exhaust system, which snakes its way through and under the rear axle and suspension.

To further hide the exhaust system mounting posts, they were carefully painted black (or possibly dark gray) before installation.

In the next installment, the exhaust system will be attached and all the front and rear suspension assemblies will to permanently glued into place.

So far, so good as up to this point the H/O kit has given us no problems.

Bills car has been the focus of the build so far and truthfully the chassis and drivetrain buildup for both cars are virtually the same. Its the body and interiors colors where our two cars start to go their separate ways. Next post we'll get into some of those differences.

Thanks for your interest and comments.

Bill and Len.

[LVZ2881]

Len, does the panzer grey floorboards match your reference??

I'm just curious if a red oxide or primer gray floorboard might be more accurate....

[Custom Hearse]

Looks great! I like that your showing us the buildup of this kit! Thanks!

[Guest]

Looking great. I disagree tho that a 1 piece fron suspension is easier to detail paint.

[george 53]

Lookin good, Len. As for the prime grey on the floorpan, I NEVER saw a red ELPO dip. ALL our Cadillacs were grey dipped. Although I understand this is an Olds, G.M. was/is FAR TOO cheap to buy different types of E.D to make it cost effective. So I am assuming your choice of color for that particular item IS correct. The rest of it looks pretty good too! Keep 'em comin' Daddy-O, she's lookin good!!!

[charlie8575]

This kit was already VERY high on my "acquire" list. It just went to #1!

WOW! And the build looks great, too!

Charlie Larkin

[MyBradKeselowski]

That suspension is top notch. I think Revell done their homework on this one.

I hope they do this to the 66 Impala.

I like your detail painting, it shows us what,will and can be done to this kit...

[Len Carsner]

Well, the next update took a little longer than we expected but sometimes real life takes precedent. In any event here's our next update on the 72 H/O Cutlass. Today we'll cover painting, and detailing the interior.

Let's begin:

Carefully trim out each decal piece in preparation for application to the center console, dashboard and interior door panels. Small sewing scissors, shown here are best for such intricate jobs. For best results, water with a touch of dish detergent, decal setting solutions and the proper hand tools are recommended.

Dashboard and steering wheel details on the Revell Hurst Olds Cutlass are a combination of hand-painting and kit decal application. Here the instrument cluster (three individual gauge faces, switch gear and wood trim are taken straight from the kit decal sheet. The remainder was highlighted with Testors Silver paint and a 3-0 brush.

The Olds Cutlass interior fits together like a well-engineered puzzle. The platform-style just begs for special attention to surface details that are plentiful in this Olds Cutlass interior.

Here the initial test fitting of interior parts is being accomplished as the pieces can be temporarily held in place with masking tape.

The detailed right-side interior door panel can be clearly seen from this angle. Fit and clearance issues are nonexistent…so far. Note the center console that is unique to the automatic transmission version of this new Revell kit.

Here the completed 72 Cutlass interior is well engineered allowing for intricate detailing while fitting together flawlessly. This interior is a great platform for further detailing.

During the disassembly of the interior parts in preparation for gluing everything into place, it was decided to use narrow strips of BareMetal Chrome foil to brighten up the lower door panel details.

The next installment is ready and will be posted on Monday. See you then.

Bill and Len

Edited December 4, 2009 by Len Carsner

[Merkur XR4Ti]

I am blown away by how good that looks. HOLY SMOKES.

What paint did you use for the black interior? The satin finish looks PERFECT.

Edited December 4, 2009 by Merkur XR4Ti

[mikemodeler]

Steve-

To answer your question it looks like they used Plasti-kote black primer (t-236) with some Model Master semi-gloss. (I re-read the post from the beginning)

It appears to give the correct "shine" like you mentioned.

Mike

[MyBradKeselowski]

OMG!!! WOW!!!

Thanks for the update, that is really looking good.

I like the details on the interior. I see Revell is doing there job...

[Len Carsner]

Another week, another update.

We continue with the 72 Olds, doing a little detail work to the exterior of the body.

Don’t be fooled into thinking there isn’t much bright work trim details on the exterior surfaces of the new Revell 72 Cutlass body shell. Start with a fresh sheet of BMF Chrome then add simple hand tools like a fresh No. 11 blade, tweezers and a cotton swab to guarantee good final results.

Consulting solid 72 Olds Cutlass reference materials is important especially when detailing the hood. It’s easy to miss such details as the back edge of the hood that adjoins the cowl and the leading edge trim that surrounds the top of the Cutlass grill.

I’ll bet you had a hardy laugh seeing the magnifying glass in this photo. Even if your eyesight isn’t what it used to be, using such a tool in this instance is strongly recommended. Why you ask? The level of detail on the headlight lenses alone requires it. The horizontal and vertical lens engraving can barely be seen with the naked eye but it is important to get it lined up straight. Once you “see†these intricate details you’ll appreciate the magnifier.

Smile! This tight close-up of the 72 Cutlass front end is quite revealing. The opportunity for in-depth detailing is rampant. Careful hand painting inside the headlight bezels is a bit tricky but convincing when completed. Here the grille mesh was painted Testors Black Chrome. The Oldsmobile script was treated to some The Detailer black. Tamiya Clear Yellow was brushed on the backside of the turn signal lenses before installation. Both the grill divider and the four clear headlight lenses were set in place with white glue. This was particularly important for the lenses, which will require a bit of circular movement to get the lens engraving straight up and down.

This rear shot shows the slender trim line running across the edge of the deck lid and rear fender extensions which has been carefully covered with BareMetal Chrome foil. The taillight lenses were glued in place (again with the white stuff) and painted chrome silver on the backside. Also a touch of white bottle paint brings the back-up light lenses to life as shown here.

Take a moment to test-fit the assembled interior, the painted and foiled body shell along with the chassis plate. Surprises are great for birthdays and Christmas but are never good when finishing up a model.

The new Revell 72 Olds Cutlass firewall consists of molded-in and separate parts as shown here (left). After the original coat of matte black, molded-in parts were highlighted with Testors Aluminum Metalizer on the firewall. Individual parts like the wiper motor mechanism and the master cylinder/power brake booster were also painted with Metalizer with the booster getting a liberal coat of Tamiya Clear Yellow as a final step.

That's all for now, next update this weekend when I'll be taking over to show some of the optional parts you'll have to choose from and I'll also be showing some of the differences between Bills' Hurst Olds and my Cutlass 442 version.

See you then. Thanks for looking.

Bill and Len

Edited December 10, 2009 by Len Carsner

[Eric Stone]

Looks great so far!

When does/did this kit hit store shelves? It's news to me...

[MyBradKeselowski]

Front and Rear looks awesome

Thanks for update...

[voljeepx]

I didn't even KNOW I wanted a '72 Olds until now! This looks great, and thanks for the tutorial, it helps alot!