Reher & Morrison build

[Dragline]

I have plenty of exterior shots. I need a couple of engine/interior shots though.

I Googled of course. Seems unlikely there are any out there.

Anyone?

Bob

PS: I turned this thread into my WIP.

Edited January 27, 2010 by Dragline

[dencon]

Bob

I am going to assume you are wanting pics of the car that the Monogram model was. With that. About 17 years ago. A guy from Texas restored that car and put it in the lobby of his business. Super Chevy did a great pictorial of it, and that was the last time I have ever heard anything about the car. I guess this guy will not take it anywhere. So it is forgotten. I have that issue. Let me get out and I will see if I can take some pics of the artical. I can also post the issue and maybe you could find one on E-bay you could buy. BRB with it.

Matt

[dencon]

Well I found the magazine, but it was not as helpful as I rememebr. I think I have another one that has some good interior shots, but it is a good issue on that car. It was the Feb 93 issue of Super Chevy. Here is the only interior shot from that issue and a good engine shot. Also what the cover looks like if you want to find it on E-bay. I do not have a scanner so I took these with my didg camera. Sorry about the quality. If I find any more interior shots. I will post them right here.

The one thing about those cars from back then. They were very simple. The model out of the box with a little bit of detail is quite accurate. The model kit is a great representation of an Alston Pro Stock Chassis of the day. That was what that car was. Hope this helps.

[Dragline]

Garsh...... Those are as helpful as I could hope for. That is the car I am building of course.

Model master Clasic White last night. I have the [Tamiya Bright red] red applied tonight. It came out sweet!!

Soooo, I am about to decal it and those shots will make a difference in the way I build it.

Every little bit counts. You guys are the greatest.

My Thanks

Bob

[Dragline]

To answer your question Dave.

I used the old decals and they worked well. The blue/white sperator stripes were not as opaque as I'd hoped but they laid down nicely.

My Iaconio build is stalled because of the billboards tearing and basically giving me fits. Are those available aftermarket?

Bob

[Dragline]

Yeah, I'll ne at the next meeting Dave. I'd like to see some of your Drag builds.

I'll bring a few you haven't seen too.

Clear coated the body a little while ago. It did come out very nice. I'll post pix and you all can tell me what you think.

Bob

[Fuel Coupe]

this is really nice. great job so far...

[Dragline]

Thanks Shane. Now for 2 coats of my fave Testors 1814 clear.

VOILA!!! It pops.

Forgot to snap one of the hood, but it looks pretty good as well.

A week or so of drying then rub it out with Novus. Finish it off with Meguires.

Paints are. Duplicolor grey primer. Testors Model Master Classic White Laquer, with Tamiya Bright red. Followed by Testors 1814 Glossy Clear enamel. And they all work in harmony. Amazing that it works.

Bob

Edited January 27, 2010 by Dragline

[dencon]

LOOKS FAN-TASTIC!!!!

Now you are making me want to bust out an old project. I was working on the 80 R-M-S Camaro.

I also have been wanting to build this car and the Iaconio car.

My friend Frank Bennett built the Ioconio car years ago. The cool thing about that decal set from that kit. They did not put the name and other decals on the black and silver graphics, so you do not have to use them. Frank just painted all of that on his. This is what I am going to do. I hate fighting with graphic decals. Especially if they are old decals.

I am still looking for some more inside pics of the RMS car for you. I know I have them somewhere. I have SO MANY CAR MAGAZINES!!!!

I will post them when I find them.

Keep up the great work. I love this model and yours is looking nice.

On the clear you are using. Have you ever had yellowing problems with that Testors clear? I have but that was years ago. I wonder if Testors has changed the formula.

Matt

[dencon]

Oh and what red did you use?

Edited January 27, 2010 by dencon

[Fuel Coupe]

Bob, this is turning out really nice. I have NEVER had much luck with spray enamels. Looks like you got the touch, Very nice....

[Dragline]

Matt, I'm pretty sure this will yellow in years to come. I'm in serious doubt that Testors changed their formula one iota. I use Tamiya Bright Red for the red portions. Oh, BTW. I sent you the Alclad II. Have you gotten it yet?

Since I don't own an airbrush [eventually] I am stuck with spray cans. I think I've got it down to a science and I get pretty good results from trial and LOTS of error. If I did own an airbrush I would have clear coated it with Tamiya arylic clear. That stuff doesn't yellow over time.

As for the Iaconio car. Well, the decals tore so I chucked em. If I can get another set I'll cut them up and paint the silver and black portions and use the letering and sponsor stuff. THAT should work I think. The Tamiya Chrome Yellow I sprayed it with came out really nice and it's not going anywhere. I'll keep looking for the decals and eventually I'll find a good set to use.

Tonight I'm spraying the chassis Tamiya Semi black and getting to work on the motor. I'm doing full fuel, throttle and ignition on this one.

Also, How does one use a Sharpie to do window trim? I'm still a tad fuzzy on the whole thing. Any tip will be helpful. Perhaps I'll do a search after lunch.

Bob

Edited January 27, 2010 by Dragline

[rssschris]

Will the Testors 1814 clear over white ,yellow over time ?

[Dragline]

Will the Testors 1814 clear over white ,yellow over time ?

I'm fairly certain it will. I did a Bernstein Bud King AA/FC years ago and the white portion of the nose slowly yellowed after about 2 years on the shelf. It's still in my dad's collection. When I get up that way I'm going to take a look at how it's doing. He has about 40 of my drag cars from the 80's/90's.

Upon looking at this build, I think the beltline is a tad high. Perhaps about 1/4' lower would have been a bit better.

Bob

Edited January 27, 2010 by Dragline

[dencon]

Oh, BTW. I sent you the Alclad II. Have you gotten it yet?

Bob, you got the wrong Matt. You did not send me any Alclad II. You should try Tamya clear in a Can. That stuff lays beautiful and never yellows.

Matt

[Dragline]

Bob, you got the wrong Matt. You did not send me any Alclad II. You should try Tamya clear in a Can. That stuff lays beautiful and never yellows.

Matt

My bad on the Alclad II.

I have some Tamiya clear. I'll try it over white next time. Use the 1814 over colors.

Thanks

Bob

[Dragline]

I hit it with a wet coat kinda right from the start Roger. The 1814 is very forgiving. Dave is right about Tamiya clear. I did both the Sanke N Mongoose FE dragsters with it and the mist coats were good. Then, when I hit it with the wet coats they started to be attacked by the clear. I no longer trust it. I said before that if i had my way [and an airbrush], I'd shoot Tamiya Acrylic Clear over everything. I've seen the results, and they NEVER yellow and you can really lay it on without concerns.

Dave, the Bud King Tempo I did years ago was kept in a glass case at my Dads in his trophy room. The case is not in direct sunlight, but over time the clear over the white portion just ended up yellowing anyway. I have a friend who has a wood flooring co. He uses anything he wants to over stained or natural oak. But if he has to pickle a floor [white paint rubbed into the pores then wiped away for a very nice look]. he always uses a water based clear clear so it won't yellow. He has some applications that were done over 10 years ago and they have not yellowed at all.

For my money, to get a non yellowing clear coat, water/aqueous/alcohol based clear coats will be the answer. I just can't shoot one without an airbrush, and no one makes one in a spray can that I know of.

I know this will yellow over time. I'll take many pictures and say "This is what it looked like when it was white" LOL

Bob

[Dragline]

Bob, Krylon makes a line of acrylics in spray cans. i have a can each of gloss, satin and matte clear finishes but i havent tried any of them yet. i did buy them because i'm a little tired of paying for the small cans of Testors dullcote lacquer and Metalizer sealer since i use so much of both. i'm hoping they will be a good replacement at a better cost.

Dave

I was looking at those at K-Mart not that long ago. I bouught the Dutch Boy Acrylic and it went on OK at first. On the second coat it attacked itself and destroyed the paint on my 66 Chevelle. Please let me know how those Krylon cans work. There is a solution out there.

Bob

[Fuel Coupe]

I read Bob, that you spray from cans. I cant remember if Dave sprays just cans as well. the wet coats you guys are spraying may be too much for the slixx decals. Might try spraying a few more mist coats before going "wet" to see if that works. I know with the urethane I spray I shoot about 6-8 light coats before getting "progressively" heavier...

[Dragline]

That's got to be the answer Shane, sage advise that.

I'll have another go with the Tamiya I think. This paint job is in the books so I'll let it be.

Let me get back to my chassis for now and I'll think on all that's been offered here.

You guys are the goods.

Bob

[dencon]

I read Bob, that you spray from cans. I cant remember if Dave sprays just cans as well. the wet coats you guys are spraying may be too much for the slixx decals. Might try spraying a few more mist coats before going "wet" to see if that works. I know with the urethane I spray I shoot about 6-8 light coats before getting "progressively" heavier...

I second this!

I did this model with urethane through a gun with Slixx on the model and Tamiya in between the PPG Black toner Base coat and the Slixx. The big trick is taking your time. Do not be in a hurry in between coats. You have to give every coat with whatever clear you use. Time to set up so it will not be "Melted" by the next coat. I am telling you. This Automotive urethane is WAY HOTTER then the Tamiya, and I am not having one bit of wrinkling.

Take Your Time, that is the trick.

Matt

[1320wayne]

Great progress on this one Bob. Your finish is top notch. And although Dave is right about me having a pretty large reference library I don't think that I could do you much better than what was provided above. I can't wait to see more on this one.

[crowe-t]

Bob, It's great to see one of these kits again. Great work so far! I built one back in the 80's but it's in storage now so I don't have any pictures.

Matt, Do you have any pictures of Frank Iaconio's Camaro you can post?

I recently picked up the Monogram Frank Iaconio kit.

[70sfc]

I have models in display cases that were painted with Tamiya white, and Tamiya clear over 12 years ago and they are as bright as the day I painted them. As far as clearing over decals, I've had some BAD results clearing over Slixx stuff. I simply don't clear over them anymore and make sure the clear has gassed out for some time before applying them. BTW Bob nice build.

Mark

[dencon]

I do not want to get to off of Bob's nice build, here. But this might help. much of the decals in the photo of my black 69 camaro are Slixx. I always precoat Slixx decals right on the sheet before using. I either use Krylon Crystal Clear or Tamaya Clear. I know that either of those will never yellow. I do a light mist. Let it sit for a half hour. Then I do a heavy coat. The nice thing about the Tamaya is it is so thin and you can put a whole can on a model and you will not have a ton of "Millage"

Again, I do that and I never have a decal in the clear problem. As for the "Clearing Decals are not 1:1, issue. Well I do not get into that one. They are models and it looks better and I never worry about my decals coming of later. It has happened to me. Also these are my models and it is how I like to build them. So I am NOT wrong.

Crowe-T

I will post those pics on another thread for you.